rear suspension noise over tar strips

[911monty]

If you can, while using jacks under the suspension is certainly better than tightening with wheels off the ground, having your wheels on and resting level on ground, ramps or lift is ideal. Reason being different wheel widths and offsets will have an effect on the leverage placed on the wheel bearing and suspension. While minor compared to being off the ground, for PERFECTION have wheels on. This will keep your alignment much longer due to less suspension settling.

PS: Don't even get me started on how bad wheel spacers are for your wheel bearings!!!

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by 911monty

If you can, while using jacks under the suspension is certainly better than tightening with wheels off the ground, having your wheels on and resting level on ground, ramps or lift is ideal. Reason being different wheel widths and offsets will have an effect on the leverage placed on the wheel bearing and suspension. While minor compared to being off the ground, for PERFECTION have wheels on. This will keep your alignment much longer due to less suspension settling.

PS: Don't even get me started on how bad wheel spacers are for your wheel bearings!!!

What about the nose being angle down? Should I also get the front wheels level to the rear wheels?

[911monty]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

What about the nose being angle down? Should I also get the front wheels level to the rear wheels?

Kram; Level is best if possible. But as EJ-Fresno noticed the jacks will certainly be better!

[RandallNeighbour]

Originally Posted by 911monty

The car needs to be sitting on all 4 wheels. When you tighten the bolt thru the bushing, the bushing center shaft is held in that position by the bracket. Control arm movement up and down is enabled by the bushing rubber torquing/stretching around that center shaft. When you load the cars suspension before tightening, the rubber bushing is in a neutral/unloaded position. It can then stretch equally in both directions as the suspension compresses or rebounds. If you tighten without loading the suspension then once the car is on the ground the rubber bushing must stretch as the arm is compressed upward. This has the bushing loaded 100% of the time. When you hit a bump and the suspension compresses, the bushing must stretch even further than designed. The only time the bushing is relaxed is when the car leaves the pavement and is flying. Hope This makes sense.

Thanks so much for this explanation. It makes a lot of sense to me and may be the reason some of my control arms have worn out prematurely. They were not tightened under load.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by 911monty

Kram; Level is best if possible. But as EJ-Fresno noticed the jacks will certainly be better!

Right on! Thanks!

[911monty]

Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour

Thanks so much for this explanation. It makes a lot of sense to me and may be the reason some of my control arms have worn out prematurely. They were not tightened under load.

Thanks RandallNeighbor, Glad to be able to return a small ripple of benefit to the sea of information yourself and the many other members have provided by their time and experience to this forum. To quote Retroman "Remember we're all in this together"!

[Pdwight]

Anyone used these ?

[EJ-Fresno]

I took the car for a test-drive tonight...
What a pleasure not to hear all those noises anymore
Thanks everybody!

[crooster]

Originally Posted by Deserion

And here I thought it was the clamshell making that racket at low-speed on rough surfaces.

Yeah - I have been thinking the same. Now I bet it's the track arms!

[Pdwight]

Clamshell ???

[crooster]

Originally Posted by Pdwight

Clamshell ???

The hard cover over the soft top...

[Pdwight]

Doh !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[BirdDog]

Replaced both my track arms today.

HOLY COW. What a difference. No more of that really loud rattling whenever I went over rough road at slow speed.

I went with the 987 track arms. Physically at least, they appear identical to the 986 arms. I shot a bunch of photos of the two side by side and posted them on my flickr site:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/billsalina/

$160 each from Pelican. Came in a TRW box but appears to be genuine Porsche with the triangle logo dremel'd off.

Ok. time for a steak and a beer!

[WillH]

My new 986 arms seem beefier than the old also.

[Smallblock454]

Hi,

for those located outside the US or not willing to buy from Pelican.

Porsche 987 part number: 98733104302 and 98733104303
is equal to TRW JTC1316, EAN number 3322937921805

Porsche 986 part number: 98633104307, 98633104306, 98633104305, 98633104304
is equal to TRW JTC1186, EAN Number 3322937753246

The 987 part seems to be a little cheaper than the 986 TRW part. Around 85 euro each.

Regards from germany
Markus

[WillH]

After a ride on some more crappy asphalt I've realized that the front are bad now that I can here it with the rear being quiet. Jacked up the front passenger side and placed some wood under the tire in a neutral position then banged around with a rubber mallet. Droplinks are quiet. The front trailing link is the noisy.
I believe I read that the 987 front trailing links are a no-go. Any upgraded part numbers? If not then I'm off to order 996-341-043-06

[EJ-Fresno]

Originally Posted by WillH

After a ride on some more crappy asphalt I've realized that the front are bad now that I can here it with the rear being quiet. Jacked up the front passenger side and placed some wood under the tire in a neutral position then banged around with a rubber mallet. Droplinks are quiet. The front trailing link is the noisy.
I believe I read that the 987 front trailing links are a no-go. Any upgraded part numbers? If not then I'm off to order 996-341-043-06

I have the same problem, now that the rear is quiet
Is it a PITA to change or it's pretty straight forward?

[EJ-Fresno]

OK, found a video how to replace them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=899_OjGjBMg

Question is: do you have to load the front suspension when you tighten them, like for the rear control arms?

[WillH]

Originally Posted by EJ-Fresno

OK, found a video how to replace them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=899_OjGjBMg

Question is: do you have to load the front suspension when you tighten them, like for the rear control arms?

I can't see why. After re reading Bentley for the rear, it stated to load the rear for the control arm, not for the trailing arm. There was no reason to remove the control arm to change the trailing arm.
Don't see any reason to remove the front control arm to change the front trailing arm either. If you do remove or loosen the control arm though, then yes load the control arm before tightening it.

[winter.k]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Hi,

for those located outside the US or not willing to buy from Pelican.

Porsche 987 part number: 98733104302 and 98733104303
is equal to TRW JTC1316, EAN number 3322937921805

Porsche 986 part number: 98633104307, 98633104306, 98633104305, 98633104304
is equal to TRW JTC1186, EAN Number 3322937753246

The 987 part seems to be a little cheaper than the 986 TRW part. Around 85 euro each.

Regards from germany
Markus

Smallblock,

Thanks for the equivalent part numbers from TRW. These are $110 (986) and $125 (987) on Amazon with free prime shipping.