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rear suspension noise over tar strips
I'm hoping this is a quick question. My car drives quite solidly with no vibrations to speak of and no rattles, er, except one.
When I'm at 25-ish on a street with heavy tar strips I get a noise right behind me - literally behind and to the left of my chest (left hand drive car). I did a search on this forum and found it could be a few things but seems likely it is a Track Arm. In doing a search on ebay I find a piece called a Link Track Arm and a Track Rod Link Now, blindly I could order the Link Track Arm but just want to make sure it is a link which transmits load to a position up behind my back. Also, is it required to purchase the entire link rather than press new bushings into the existing casting? |
Before you buy anything, get your car up in the air and get under it and inspect everything. Pull, push, prod, poke, and you'll eventually find the culprit.
Trying to decide what part to replace based on the noise alone is not likely to identify the correct part (unless you are already an expert mechanic or you're really, really lucky). |
Tag
I want to follow this
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Here is where your problem is:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1407471617.jpg Replace this arm and problem solved. My experience when my Boxster was up and off the ground and inspecting all the joints, I could not make this arm rattle or make any loose noise when grabbing and twisting it. |
ALignment
I recently had a 4 wheel alignment, if I replace that would a realignment be necessary ?
I have a similar noise on the passenger side. |
If you can get away with not disconnecting the three point arm to which this trailing arm connects (it's the one with the ball joint at the hub and the alignment setting bolt at the frame you can get away without an alignment.
BTW, this is definitely a DIY job to swap this out, but be patient, it fits into each end very tightly and will not be the easiest thing you've done. I had to give up, drink a beer, and come back and give it another go before I figured out which end should go on first and eventually get it done. |
Thanks
I learned a long time ago that when working on a project if you start talking about it's Mother to walk away and give your brain and your patience a break. I recently did this on my secondary Cat job.
Question can the bushing be replaced or is a replace the entire arm....and if doing one should both be replaced at the same time ? |
Replace both trailing arms.
OEM ones from TRW are available from Pelican Parts: Porsche Boxster (1997-2004) - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 3 Rebuilt ones with polyurethane bushings are available from Vertex Auto (with core exchange). I went with the TRW ones. Just sayin'........... TO |
Thanks for the picture Jager, it makes the thread easy to follow.
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Somebody is rebuilding these with poly bushings?? WTF?? LOL Next time I'm through Vertex area? I'll be sure to stop in a smack them in the side of the head.
The arm they are *rebuilding*?? Has a FRIGGIN MONOBALL in it from the factory!! Why in the hell would you go Urethane?? LOL Yes, these are wearing out. Yes, this is the problem. Yes you can swap these out without changing the alignment. I do these at the track in 10min per side with the under tray ON. :) |
Wow Brad
If you were closer I would buy you a case of Beer to help me :cheers:
I appreciate the info, definitely a job to do before winter. I get a little noise on a gravel road from the passenger side only....but they are both the same age so both it will be. I went to the Vertex site and ...WOW...3.6 rebuilt engines ........hhmmmm one day maybe. I didn't see nay rebuilt arms however ?? Thanks for all the great information everyone. Sincerely Dwight |
I'd end up taking 3/4 of the case home!!
It's two bolts!! One in the front at the tub and one at the back in the control arm. The one at the control arm has some serious torque on it. I use a breaker bar to bust it loose (or a Snap On 18V gun depending on how high I put the car in the air) Easiest method for the front bolt is to take down the undertray, but it can be done with it in place. The drivers side is tough because the power steering lines are in the way. Start with the passenger side arm. You'll get a feel in open space on how to handle the drivers side with the lines in the way. Buy the TRW arms.. NEW. They are $170x2 Part Number: Part # 987 331 043 02 |
Part number
Here is anew on on ebay
says brand new TRW but the part # does not match |
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The OEM number is: 986-331-043-07 TO |
Better
So are the urethane ones that are rebuilt better than the TRW OEM ones ??
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How would urethane be better than a monoball? :) You want STOCK pieces.. not rebuilt.
and you **WANT** the 987 pieces.. trust me. I gave you the correct part number. You will thank me the first time you drive the car. TeamOx? You work for Pelican? |
Quote:
http://www.****************************************.com/Part-Number/Control-Arm-Link-__99733104301_TRW_2B69CDA3.aspx substitute **************************************** for all those Astrix-es substitute romeo mike easy uniform romeo oscar papa easy alpha november for all those astrixes |
Geez...........I'm just commenting on my own personal experience with replacing the rear trailing arms of my 986.
I offered two options that I had personally considered; the OEM TRW arms and the rebuilt Vertez arms. I chose the TRW arms, and yes , I admit it...............I bought them from Pelican! And no, I don't work for Pelican; in fact I work for no one now. Feels good, too. :) Just sayin'........... TO |
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Replace the arms with factory OE parts (Pankl supplied them to Porsche, TRW MADE them for Pankl) |
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