How to diagnose and resolve engine issues using Durametric.

[jb92563]

Ordered a working Throttle body and Pedal module from a dismantler.

Hopefully that will fix my "Mistake/Accident" issue.

If not then I'll have to take a look at the ECU to see if it got damaged.

I also bought an ECU, Immobilizer, Ignition/key assembly matched set in case i need to try the ECU replacement, only $265 delivered for all 3 for my exact model year 2001 S.

I also discovered/read about another set of high amp (60A+) fuses hidden away in the car but I doubt these have anything to do with my problem.

I'll try the Throttle body first, then the pedal, ECU is a last resort.

[jb92563]

Update -

I tried swaping out the Throttle Body and the E-gas pedal potentiometer/sensor and still no luck.

The car starts and idles ok but does not respond at all to the gas pedal.

It just seems like there must be a fuse somewhere thats blown but all the fuses look good except the drivers seat adjustment, which has an issue that I know about.

I also found some more relays and fuses in the trunk but the fuse there looks fine as well.

I also disconnected the ECU in the trunk and used contact cleaner on the pins.

I took the ECU apart and nothing looks burned or fried. Solder joints look good.
I was surprised the ECU is not even a sealed unit, and looks cheap. Any moisture in the trunk would be a bad thing for sure.

As a last resort I have a matched used ECU/DME/Ignition assembly for a 2001 S same as mine, so I'll give that swap a try and keep my fingers crossed.

If no luck then I need to find a very talented Indy with the right skills and tools to figure this out.

Still the same codes for the egas potentiometer, Throttle Body and MAF but those are symptoms, not the root cause, as my swaps have proven.

No Check engine light suprisingly.

[woodsman]

Wow- just read the whole thread. It's been a while-- have you taken it to a pro???? If not keep up the good fight! Either way I appreciate that you've detailed your efforts...

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by woodsman

Wow- just read the whole thread. It's been a while-- have you taken it to a pro???? If not keep up the good fight! Either way I appreciate that you've detailed your efforts...

This weekend I will replace the stock ECU, Immobilizer and ignition assembly with the matched set I got from a dismanteler.

Wish me luck!

If that option fails then I need to talk to a good indy with the diagnostic tools and experience to figure out what is going on, as I have replaced a lot of stuff already, all the typical suspect things.

Im having Boxster driving withdrawl symptoms too so I need this resolved soon.

[Topless]

Wow is right.

Try the new DME and if you don't get results it is probably time to take it in. Document your path so they know where you have been and why. Black Forest in SD might be the best for diagnosing phantom issues like this. Good luck Ray!

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by Topless

Wow is right.

Try the new DME and if you don't get results it is probably time to take it in. Document your path so they know where you have been and why. Black Forest in SD might be the best for diagnosing phantom issues like this. Good luck Ray!

This thread is probably a pretty good account of all the things I've tried, and I have become intimate the car inside and out. I'm hoping its the DME system and that I'll have a bunch of spares afterwards.

I was also thinking that Black Forest might be able to sleuth this issue, if it comes to that, so thanks for your suggestion.

I figure that at 72k miles its just as well that a bunch of things get replaced anyway so its not a waste in any case.

Fortunately my mindset with the Boxster was a fun Project Sports car/racer, 2ndary transportation and expected a few bumps in the road on a lucky 13 year old car.

Like I always say, every broken part is an upgrade opportunity
, but you have to be able to determine which part is broken first

[jb92563]

Finally some positive results.

Today I put in the ECU, Immobilizer and ignition module set that I got from the dismantler.

I swapped the matched set key RFID chip into my key as they all have to match to work, but the key is cut for my door and ignition, hence the swap of RFID chip and transmitter from the dismanteler key into my original unit.

So I got it all hooked up crossed my fingers, reconnected the battery and turned the key to ON and let it do the 1 minute adaptation process without touching the egas pedal. Then off for 10 seconds and START.

The engine started right up and settled into a nice idle. The gas pedal was responding and reving the engine....hurray!!!!
It was not acting funny at all, the idle was steady and normal.

Tomorrow I will test drive it to verify its all working normal again and check for thrown codes.

Now the only issue I am seeing is the airbag light and the doors will not lock.
I click the remote to lock and I can hear the doors lock, and then they click again and unlock.

I used the key to lock the driver side door which works but the passenger side will not lock, and then I found out that the passenger door does not have a key opening. Hmmmm never noticed that before.

Since the donor cars ECU, Immobilizer were from a car that was in an accident and the front air bags deployed I figured I may have to reset something to get rid of the airbag light.
I figure that the computer also makes sure the doors remain unlocked in an accident when the bags deploy so its probably related.