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		|  07-28-2017, 04:32 AM | #1 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Michigan 
					Posts: 30
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				Gearbox Lube Change
			 
 
			Hello Everyone 
I have a 2001 Base Boxster with 104000 miles on it.
 
In the mornings I can feel notchiness from the shifter when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
 
Once the fluid warms up, this goes away.
 
I would like to change out the gearbox lube with Motul300
 
In researching this procedure I found one must remove the rear cover and diagonal support braces to get access to the transmission.
 
Will this mess up my rear alignment?
 
If so is there any way to prevent this from occurring?
 
Thanks for any advice
 
Mike
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		|  07-28-2017, 04:49 AM | #2 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: It's a kind of magic..... 
					Posts: 6,649
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by mike914  Hello Everyone
 I have a 2001 Base Boxster with 104000 miles on it.
 
 In the mornings I can feel notchiness from the shifter when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
 
 Once the fluid warms up, this goes away.
 
 I would like to change out the gearbox lube with Motul300
 
 In researching this procedure I found one must remove the rear cover and diagonal support braces to get access to the transmission.
 
 Will this mess up my rear alignment?
 
 If so is there any way to prevent this from occurring?
 
 Thanks for any advice
 
 
 Mike
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Yes, you only need to remove the plate to access the gear box, and no, you will not need an alignment afterwards.  You may need a small ratchet strap to pull everything back into place to get the bolts in when you are done.
 
While you have the plate off, it is a good time to add a 2 1/4 diameter hole under the drain plug so you won't need to take anything off in the future.
 
I would also be very circumspect about using anything but the factory fill in your car.  The problems with using aftermarket gear oils have been written up here and on other websites many, many times.  Porsche used a unique lubricant in these gearboxes that no one in the aftermarket has ever duplicated, and it is a full synthetic product as well.
		 
				__________________“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth.  Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.”  - Albert Einstein
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		|  07-28-2017, 06:06 AM | #3 |  
	| 2003 S, Arctic Silver, M6 
				 
				Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada 
					Posts: 1,346
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			+1 What JFP said. Use the real stuff. It is pricey but you will be happy you did.
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		|  07-28-2017, 06:50 AM | #4 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: S. New Jersey 
					Posts: 1,239
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			Use factory stuff. You can drill hole in plate while still attached to car, no need to remove. It will add $1000s to the resale value of your car.
		 
				__________________2002 S - old school third pedal
 Seal Grey
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		|  07-28-2017, 05:15 PM | #5 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Michigan 
					Posts: 30
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				drilling hole
			 
 
			HEllo and thanks for the advice
 I like the ides of drilling a hole into the plate without removing it
 
 Ant idea where the hole should be located?
 
 Also I will be going with the factory spec lube thanks
 
 Mike
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		|  07-28-2017, 06:26 PM | #6 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Edmonton,Alberta 
					Posts: 288
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			I'm running Royal Purple and the shifting is notchy when cold.  I experimented with other oils (Amsoil, Redline,etc) in my 993 and they were no better.  I stopped by the dealer today to see what Porsche oil costs....$65 Cdn/litre!  I think I will live with the Royal Purple for now    
ps the local Porsche indy uses Redline
		
				____________________________________________
 '58 356A coupe, just a driver
 '00 Boxster S fair weather - daily driver
 '11 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - winter daily driver
 '92 F250 - junk hauler; previous Porsches '95 993;'08 Cayman S;'70 911E
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		|  07-28-2017, 07:12 PM | #7 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: California Central Coast 
					Posts: 1,476
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by mike914  HEllo and thanks for the advice
 I like the ides of drilling a hole into the plate without removing it
 
 Ant idea where the hole should be located?
 
 Also I will be going with the factory spec lube thanks
 
 Mike
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See the attached
Transmission gear oil change made easy. |  
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		|  07-28-2017, 07:31 PM | #8 |  
	| There Is No Substitute. 
				 
				Join Date: May 2007 Location: West Coast 
					Posts: 3,253
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			mike914, there is no need to double post in two different parts of the forum with the same question.
		 
				__________________1999 Ocean Blue Metallic Boxster - blueboxster.com
 
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		|  07-30-2017, 07:25 AM | #9 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: S. New Jersey 
					Posts: 1,239
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by mike914  HEllo and thanks for the advice
 I like the ides of drilling a hole into the plate without removing it
 
 Ant idea where the hole should be located?
 
 Also I will be going with the factory spec lube thanks
 
 Mike
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I used a flash light and pilot holes. There is a hole already near to plug location. that will get you close shining light through whole and seeing where it is relative to the plug. Drill pilot hole, shine light repeat until the pilot hole is located at plug. Use pilot hole for your hole cutting blade bit add keep working at it until you get through.
 
***As several have said, before you drain, make sure you can loosen the fill plug FIRST***
		 
				__________________2002 S - old school third pedal
 Seal Grey
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		|  07-31-2017, 04:41 AM | #10 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Upstate, SC 
					Posts: 66
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by mike914  HEllo and thanks for the advice
 I like the ides of drilling a hole into the plate without removing it
 
 Ant idea where the hole should be located?
 
 Also I will be going with the factory spec lube thanks
 
 Mike
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Just preformed this change for the first time last week. Drilled a 2-1/2" hole in the plate. Centered it side to side and from front to rear, I placed it between the roughly 8mm existing hole and the rivet aft of it. Worked great. There are pics on this board of where the hole goes.
		 
				__________________2 0 0 1 S
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		|  07-31-2017, 06:41 AM | #11 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: S. New Jersey 
					Posts: 1,239
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				Re-Tapping Drain hole threads
			 
 
			A bit of a high jack but when I changed my fluid this last spring, I noticed I had to ratchet out the drain plug the entire distance up to the last thread or 2. So I knew there was something wrong with the thread alignment. I couldn't see anything on the plug that indicated cross threading but couldn't really see the threading in the transmission. When I  screwed the plug back I only got a couple of turns by hand, I had to hard ratchet the plug back in. I knew the threads where bugger up but if I could get a seal I would deal with it many years from now. Well the plug is seeping a bit, no drips and I don't dare apply any more tightening. It required way more than the 19 or so ft/lbs.Question, does any one know the thread pattern for this drain hole. I'm hoping I can drain, buy a new plug and tap the threads true??
 
 The Auto Atlanta Parts catalog indicates M 24X1.5 ???
 
 
				__________________2002 S - old school third pedal
 Seal Grey
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