Gearbox Lube Change
 

Hello Everyone

I have a 2001 Base Boxster with 104000 miles on it.

In the mornings I can feel notchiness from the shifter when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.

Once the fluid warms up, this goes away.

I would like to change out the gearbox lube with Motul300

In researching this procedure I found one must remove the rear cover and diagonal support braces to get access to the transmission.

Will this mess up my rear alignment?

If so is there any way to prevent this from occurring?

Thanks for any advice


Mike

Yes, you only need to remove the plate to access the gear box, and no, you will not need an alignment afterwards. You may need a small ratchet strap to pull everything back into place to get the bolts in when you are done.

While you have the plate off, it is a good time to add a 2 1/4 diameter hole under the drain plug so you won't need to take anything off in the future.

I would also be very circumspect about using anything but the factory fill in your car. The problems with using aftermarket gear oils have been written up here and on other websites many, many times. Porsche used a unique lubricant in these gearboxes that no one in the aftermarket has ever duplicated, and it is a full synthetic product as well.

+1 What JFP said. Use the real stuff. It is pricey but you will be happy you did.

Use factory stuff. You can drill hole in plate while still attached to car, no need to remove. It will add $1000s to the resale value of your car.

drilling hole
 

HEllo and thanks for the advice

I like the ides of drilling a hole into the plate without removing it

Ant idea where the hole should be located?

Also I will be going with the factory spec lube thanks

Mike

I'm running Royal Purple and the shifting is notchy when cold. I experimented with other oils (Amsoil, Redline,etc) in my 993 and they were no better. I stopped by the dealer today to see what Porsche oil costs....$65 Cdn/litre! I think I will live with the Royal Purple for now :)
ps the local Porsche indy uses Redline

See the attached

http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/62465-transmission-gear-oil-change-made-easy.html

mike914, there is no need to double post in two different parts of the forum with the same question.

I used a flash light and pilot holes. There is a hole already near to plug location. that will get you close shining light through whole and seeing where it is relative to the plug. Drill pilot hole, shine light repeat until the pilot hole is located at plug. Use pilot hole for your hole cutting blade bit add keep working at it until you get through.

***As several have said, before you drain, make sure you can loosen the fill plug FIRST***

Just preformed this change for the first time last week. Drilled a 2-1/2" hole in the plate. Centered it side to side and from front to rear, I placed it between the roughly 8mm existing hole and the rivet aft of it. Worked great. There are pics on this board of where the hole goes.

Re-Tapping Drain hole threads
 

A bit of a high jack but when I changed my fluid this last spring, I noticed I had to ratchet out the drain plug the entire distance up to the last thread or 2. So I knew there was something wrong with the thread alignment. I couldn't see anything on the plug that indicated cross threading but couldn't really see the threading in the transmission. When I screwed the plug back I only got a couple of turns by hand, I had to hard ratchet the plug back in. I knew the threads where bugger up but if I could get a seal I would deal with it many years from now. Well the plug is seeping a bit, no drips and I don't dare apply any more tightening. It required way more than the 19 or so ft/lbs.
Question, does any one know the thread pattern for this drain hole. I'm hoping I can drain, buy a new plug and tap the threads true??

The Auto Atlanta Parts catalog indicates M 24X1.5 ???