Installing Imagine Automotive Super Charger on my 1998 2.5 Boxster

[drbodzin]

Got the aluminum bracket installed on the cam cover after grinding some of the metal off of the bracket where there was some interference from the cover.

Now on to the next step

[drbodzin]

SO, the Ai instructions say to install the cam cover bracket first, then the SC bracket gets attached
to it once in the car. I have to say, that is not the best way. In order to get a really good snug fit of
the SC bracket to the cam cover bracket, it is best to attach them first. Then, as a unit attach them
to the 8 cam cover bolts and the 1 bolt in the front of the engine.

So, I took out the cam cover bracket and did it this way.





This is from inside the car. You can see where the one allen bolt is attahced with
the spacer behind it.

[RawleyD]

Totally awesome. can't wait to see this thing fully installed! so cool 8)

[drbodzin]

Got the 2 pulleys that guide the serpentine belt installed. The kit came with 5/16th bolts for the
pulleys but the threaded portion of the plate where they mount were tapped with bigger diameter
holes. So I had to get two 3/8th bolts. Which meant the holes in the pulley had to be enlarged. So off
to Rick's Machine Shop in Santee, CA. Rick was easily able to enlarge the holes for me.

[drbodzin]

Time to get the SC installed. This took about 3-4 hours of trial and error to get all the parts to line up
properly. Had to get the out port of the SC aligned in the right direction. Then had to get the rubber tubes
aligned properly. Lets just say I had to put the thing in and out 6-8 times before I got it perfect. Also had
to shave some metal off the aluminum bracket that mounts to the cam cover to provide the right
clearance and alignment of the out port of the SC. This kit is definitely not just "bolt on" and go.

Installed the check valve per the instructions. This is a tube that runs under the driver's side manifold.
Then I re-installed the oil cooler.



Filling the SC with 2.5 oz of SC oil.





Testing the alignment of the out port piping.



Here you can see the area I had to remove some of the metal from the bracket.



Showing the out port alignment.





Here is the SC installed with the in port piping installed.

[drbodzin]

Although its not required, I bent the stock air pump bracket back so it was flush against the inner passenger wall
of the engine compartment. If the engine ground wasn't attached, I would have just cut it completely out. I did have
to install a new engine ground wire so it would not interfere with the intake pipe.

You can see how much more room I now have on the passenger side of the engine with the air pump bracket bent
out of the way. You can see the SC on the bottom right of pic. Also decided to order a 2.5" diameter flexible rubber
hose to run from the SC out port to the top of the engine compartment. The hose that came with the kit just won't
fit without a major fold in the hose.

[drbodzin]

Today I tackled getting the intake pipe installed. Let's just say, its a really tight fit. But I got most of it done today.

I also took the time to round out the inner edge of the pipes to reduce drag. Here is the stock edge with some of it
rounded it so far.



Here is one of the pipe edges after rounding it out.



Here you can see the intake pipes installed. I modified the pipes that came with the kit by shortening the one that
attaches closest to the filter by about 2 inches. I also installed the intake pipe that houses the MAF with the MAF
inside the air box. This made a cleaner install of the intake pipes. I will have to extend the MAF wire harness.



From this pic, you can see that the hose from the AOS will attach to the intake pipe instead of the throttle body.
I assume this is to prevent blow back. If someone knows the exact reason for this, let me know. I'm just making an
educated guess.

[drbodzin]

Latest update to the Supercharger install:

The 2.5" inlet pipe that attaches to the out port of the supercharger just does not work real well.
So I decided to order a 2.5 flexible hose to use instead. Won't be here till next week.

So the past few days, I've changed my focus from the SC install figuring out a way to mount my new gauges.

I purchased an AEM Wideband O2 Sensor and an AEM Boost Gauge. To control (tune) the air-fuel ratio, I purchased
an Apexi Neo. Thanks to JAAY and The Radium King for your earlier advice. It all makes sense now.

Well, I wanted to install the AEM gauges in the center console so they look factory installed. For the life of me,
I could not figure out where I could install the Neo unit, without it looking lame. I even considered leaving the
Neo in the storage compartment behind the seats.

Then I came up with an idea (that I think is pretty darn cool ;-). I decided to make a hide-a-way pocket between
the AEM gauges that I could slide the Neo in and out of when needed.

I still had an old cassette tape center console insert that I modified for the job.

Take a look. I am almost done with it. Just waiting on some 3M 94 primer so I can install the Burl Wood Laminate
to finish off the factory look.

Here's a couple of shots showing the pocket I built for the Apexi Neo.










Here I'm test fitting the whole unit. Once I get the wood laminate installed, it will look factory. At least I think so

[woodsman]

Lots of work! J can't wait to hear how she drives.:dance:

[The Radium King]

cool. lemme know your source for flexible silicone hose - i looked and looked and the closest i could find was flexible rad hose.

otherwise, with the flex hose you have the opportunity to squeeze an air/water intercooler in if you need to. with the tuning you are going to use you cant alter timing, but you may wih to monitor it. if you find you are getting too much detonation you may wish to cool your intake charge. frozenboost.com sell kits, you just have to decide where to put the cooler - behind the rear wheels? in front of your rads?

[drbodzin]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

cool. lemme know your source for flexible silicone hose - i looked and looked and the closest i could find was flexible rad hose.

otherwise, with the flex hose you have the opportunity to squeeze an air/water intercooler in if you need to. with the tuning you are going to use you cant alter timing, but you may wih to monitor it. if you find you are getting too much detonation you may wish to cool your intake charge. frozenboost.com sell kits, you just have to decide where to put the cooler - behind the rear wheels? in front of your rads?

Thanks! Here is my source for the hose. I too tried flexible radiator hose, but its too stiff.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3621

Regarding the "timing", are you saying that the engine timing will need to be adjusted. Even though I got the AFC, I was still thinking of sending the ECU over to Pedro's to get tuned. His fee is pretty reasonable. Any issue with doing the tune and still attaching the AFC? Would that handle the timing?

[BYprodriver]

I have this assembly for sale:

[The Radium King]

ps, in an earlier post you asked about the aos hose. the aos needs vacuum to work. this is typically achieved by putting it downstream of the throttle body, so that engine suction creates the required vacuum. not possible in a fi situation, where the reverse would occur. so, the aos hose is located uptream of the sc and the venturi effect is used to create vacuum. you'll probably get less vacuum doing it this way, but the bigger concern for me would be the oil and whatnot coughed up by the aos passing though the sc - uncertain what the tolerances are of these things.

[drbodzin]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

I have this assembly for sale:

Hey,

Not that I need a spare, but what are you asking for it?

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by drbodzin

Hey,

Not that I need a spare, but what are you asking for it?

$ 150. for you.

[drbodzin]

Spent some time getting the Apexi Neo Air Flow Controller (AFC) wired in. I plan on writing up a DIY later (for just the AFC install),
but thought I would update this post as its part of the SC install.



Had to identify the 5 wires I needed to tap into at the wire harness connection to the ECU. I labeled them
with tape and used the ID number from the wiring diagram in Bentley manual.



The wiring harness from the AFC was pretty short. So I extended it about 5 feet. Labeled each wire with color from AFC harness
and corresponding ID from Bentley manual.



There were 3 brown ground wires going into the ECU plug. I need the one for postion #6 in the plug. So I
opened the plug and was able to identify it among the three.



Here are all the wires spliced into the harness with crimps. The two wires with the jacks are the MAF connections.



Here it is all re-installed. I will do a DIY write-up later with more detailed instructions, including all the wire connections
and the actual tuning process.



Here you can see the wiring harness I had to extend.

[SF-Rockster]

Nice write up! Im in. Sub'ed

[drbodzin]

Finished getting the AEM Gauges installed.

Here I installed the wood veneer from a kit I had. This is the piece that would normally be used to
surround the cassette or CD holder.



In this pic, I cut two pieces of wood to fill in the center section. I used a dremel to grind the extra off.



Here's a couple of shots with the completed install. Chose the silver bezels to match the main gauges.
You can see how the Apexi AFC slides out and into the pocket I built.






Here's the install of the Boost Gauge sensor. I will install the Wide Band O2 sensor once I install the
200 Cell Fabspeed Cats next week.



The Boost Gauge sensor then attaches to the vacuum line upstream of the throttle body.

[pepe82]

Great thread Miles! keep up the good work bro!!!

[pepe82]

Couple of questions (if answered in the previous posts, my bad).
- Are you going to run with the stock injectors and fuel pump?
Or have you upgraded these?