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Old 01-19-2014, 05:48 AM   #1
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Jake,
Nice selfe!
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:18 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Van914 View Post
Jake,
Nice selfe!
I didn't even have to photoshop it! Although I think I have gotten too much sun lately...
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:55 PM   #3
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After I exhaled I am not so high on grease anymore.



While testing the seals on the Nachi bearing, I was surprised to feel and hear any clunking from the bearing even with grease in it. I get a lot of that when spinning the bearings dry, but didn't expect any when greased, but there is still some of that going on even with grease. I assume it is bits of debris getting caught between the balls and race, or the cage getting in a jam.

After a couple hours, what started out as a golden honey-like grease has turned to black goo. I am now thinking the grease may not be as good a lubricant as a continuous flow of oil. So I think I will go back to the oil route.

One thing I do know, before my new bearing goes into my Box, it is going to be run in grease for 3 minutes, cleaned and re-greased, run for 20 minutes, clean and re-grease, then run for 3 hours on the test stand before being oiled and installed.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:10 PM   #4
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So I think I will go back to the oil route.
If feeding directly into the bearing you might want to do a Patent search first.

Thats the case for anyone wanting to develop an IMS fix, don't assume that its not in existence just because you haven't heard that it is.

And no longer is something a quality product just because its patented, there are instances where the bad ideas are protected simply as flanking maneuvers.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:42 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=Walter White;381890]So I think I will go back to the oil route.QUOTE]

Grease is used successfully in many bearings. Ask just about any electric motor or wheel you know.

But if you want to go oil, try to skip the hoses and fittings and go straight to the source. You should be able to introduce oil directly through the oil pump drive key into the IMS shaft, and I have the start of an idea of how to do it with a very minimum of structural compensation to the drive key. Another item, I keep seeing things about sealing the IMS, a "lightly pressed" assembly. I do a lot of crazy things but making a pressure vessel that undergoes frequent thermal / pressure cycles (while bathed in oil and undergoing structural cyclical stress and strain no less) out of a lightly pressed assembly is not one of them. My sense is those forces are likely to take that assembly apart over time.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:35 PM   #6
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Yeah, I don't really want to run pipe or tubing anywhere.
But I am pretty sure I want to feed my bearing indirectly with oil. The cooler and cleaner the oil the better.



I have been testing the partially open seal design and so far, measuring the oil that comes out, I calculate that 10cc/min or less may be enough. I may see if some design changes to the seal will reduce consumption. But the most important thing is to keep the oil moving through to keep the bearing clean.

I can't remember my exact calculations on the pressure of sealing the IM shaft but I think it was a difference of 30 psi from 0 to 300*F. So if the shaft were sealed with an air temperature of 70*F, the maximum pressure it would see is about +23 psi, and a minimum of about -7 psi. Since the plug would be near the end of the shaft, I think the sprocket assembly outside the shaft will provide plenty of support. I don't think it would be as stressed as if it were near the middle of the shaft. I think a plastic cam plug with some Loctite or similar adhesive would probably work. Maybe install two plugs, back-to-back.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:59 AM   #7
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If a hole is drilled through a loaded shaft, the most load efficient way to do it is along the axis of the shaft. Drilling a hole through the IMS bearing bolt would require a larger bolt diameter than normal to maintain load carrying capacity.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:02 AM   #8
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Actually, the hole does not go through the bolt shank, only the shoulder.
I think .032" should do.
But I was considering making a larger bolt and going through the cener of the shank. It would actually be easier and stronger. It would only require drilling the flange shoulder bigger. Much like the later model flange.
I PM'd you yesterday.
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