Another IMS bearing thread

[Walter White]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

I used the pelican parts bolt (Thanks Wayne!) but chose a Nachi 6204 NSE s - the seal material is Viton instead of Buna-n - a little better material and it is a sealed bearing.

I have been doing my oil seal test on a Nachi 6204 NSE. After 24 hours it shows no sign of leaking. This is the best result I have seen so far. Some bearings fill with oil after only a few minutes, like the one below, just 3 minutes into test.



I have an NSK DDU on order.

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by Walter White

I have been doing my oil seal test on a Nachi 6204 NSE. After 24 hours it shows no sign of leaking. This is the best result I have seen so far. Some bearings fill with oil after only a few minutes, like the one below, just 3 minutes into test.



I have an NSK DDU on order.

Add an oil to the mix thats highly concentrated with chlorinated paraffin… Then heat it to 240*, then thermal cycle it hundreds of times, then add 1.5-3% fuel intrusion, then…..

Of course, I'd hope that you know about a durometer and how to use it, and why. We were doing the tests that you are now way back in 2007 and they continue as we develop oils with Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oils, from scratch.

Jake - Any update on Gen 2 release? If already posted elsewhere missed it. I'm waiting to do a single row 3.2L until I can learn more.

It has been released to our distributors for some time now and their purchase orders are being filled. We are waiting until the time is right and distributors have units in stock (a few hundred per distributor) before the big release.

We are waiting as long as we can after the holidays… However I did recently spill the beans about it in a 5 page interview in a certain publication. :-)

Trust that Gen 2 is NOT "better" than the IMS Solution; nothing will be, because nothing else removes the wear components from the equation. Gen 2 is better than Gen 1, and is a mid price point thats far superior to anything else at the same price. In fact, Gen 2 is the same cost as it could cost to simply "spray oil" onto your OEM bearing and accepting all the compromises that come with that.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

Gen 2 is better than Gen 1, and is a mid price point thats far superior to anything else at the same price. In fact, Gen 2 is the same cost as it could cost to simply "spray oil" onto your OEM bearing and accepting all the compromises that come with that.

Jake, I just saw the Second Generation ad, very interesting...........

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by Walter White

I have been doing my oil seal test on a Nachi 6204 NSE. After 24 hours it shows no sign of leaking. This is the best result I have seen so far. Some bearings fill with oil after only a few minutes, like the one below, just 3 minutes into test.



I have an NSK DDU on order.

That is why I chose the NSE. In some bearings the rubber seal comes close to, but does not seal the inner race. The Nachi 6204 NSE seals the inner race, and uses higher temp non metallics than the standard bearing. I specifically did not use a bearing that does not completely seal the inner race. Check out the bearing manufacturers spec sheets to tell one from the other, they look similar. The pressure differential between the inside and outside of a non vented IMS will be much higher than the centimeter or so of oil pressure you are seeing in your test. The differential pressure with a vented IMS will be ~zero.

[Walter White]

After days and days soaking in oil without a trace of the seal leaking, it appears the Nachi seal is not able to hold back the oil when a torsional load is placed on the bearing. After 24 hours of placing a load so that the inner race is not parallel to the outer race, oil is appearing inside the bearing.

[Walter White]

NSK 6204DU after 40 minutes in oil bath, filled with oil.
The box it came in says DDU, but the seal only says DU.



The Nachi seal appears superior to the NSK seal when viewed under a magnifying glass.

[Walter White]

I am considering the possibility of bonding a supplemental seal to a bearings original seal.


One possibility would be to bond a trimmed-down commercially available seal to the existing seal.


Another possibility would be to bond a piece of sheet rubber to the existing seal, and machine a step on the flange which could be done on any good lathe in a few minutes.

Supplemental seals might be able to bond to original rubber seals using the same bonding agents that are used to glue O-rings together. Rubber original seals could be bonded to the outer race using a good rubber-metal bonding agent like E6000.
I have some rubber-to-rubber samples soaking in oil before I try to tear them apart. Bonding a supplemental seal to a metal original seal (Z or ZZ) would probably be the best, but a rubber-to-rubber seal would probably be the best bond.

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by Walter White

I am considering the possibility of bonding a supplemental seal to a bearings original seal.

Smart a**!

I give you this, you are brilliant. Sounds like a bullet proof idea