Your engine is out. Are you going to do it?

The hex drive for the oil pump is floating. Also, how are you going to facilitate passing oil through the partition between the oil pump drive and the interior of the IMS tube?

This has already been done, and you will find other complications as you progress.

On the later model IMS bearing, the larger sized bearing, is the bolt pressed into the inner race or is it a slip fit?

Buy one and find out! This stuff isn't supposed to be easy, or cheap.

My local Porsche dealer parts department was very helpful when I called about the bolt. He said it is pressed into the bearing and sold under one part number.

So I am wondering if Porsche did this to help conduct heat away from the inner race of the bearing.

James, I think I am going to pass on this method to get oil. My concerns, other than the extra work of getting to, and modifying the pump and shaft, are that this oil will be hot and dirty. I am not sure using the IMS as a conduit is reliable during many driving conditions (long uphill or downhill runs, acceleration, braking, depending on a mid engine or rear). But I thank you for your suggestion.
I am currently thinking there are many improvements that could be implemented with a new design bolt, one of them is getting oil for the IOF through a larger bolt with a small hole drilled through the center.

I'm thinking this is round 2 if the grease continues to leave the bearing with the modifications I've already made to the IMS currently in my engine. I plan to replace the clutch and flywheel in about 15k miles and I already have a spanking new Nachi greased sealed bearing in place. I'll go with the modified key concept drawn below if the grease has left the bearing, and to answer Jake's question, a hole at the bottom of the hex drive hole in the IMS shaft will communicate oil pressure between the oil pump and the inside of the IMS tube. I'll top that off with an open (silicon) ceramic bearing open at both sides. and Jake, can you shoot me the patent number on this? I'd like to see what's been done so far in this area. The size of the hole is an interesting point, it would be nice to fill the IMS tube with a mist, not just dump oil in there. And Walter, why do you say the oil on the high pressure side of the pump is dirty?

Sorry, I didn't meant for it to sound so bad. What I mean is it is unfiltered and has not been through the cooler yet. I think it comes straight from the sump into the pump.

I don't have a handle on the overall oil flow path yet, even if it was cooled before the trip into the IMS, it wont be cooled when it hits the bearing. More learning.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1390524475.jpg

You might be able to place a filter inside the tube. Maybe a series of fine mesh screen. They could also serve as an anti-slosh device.

You need an engine in front of you. The oil path and the configuration posted are two different things.

Someone else has used this configuration to develop a component and made a critical mistake, actually more than one.

Too true. What is #6 om the schematic? that seems to be the place where the proposed oil stealing occurs, but the schematic has no detail in that area, and why should it? oil is not supposed to pass that barrier.

I'll point out the obvious that splash oil comes out of the pan, so for anyone who is an open bearing splash oil advocate there you are, and, I'm in your camp.

OK... When will the manuals be available? I hope there will be pictures and drawings in the manuals.

Thats up to the publisher.

Its a step by step assembly manual.

Really looking forward to getting a copy when it's available...

Is there any chance of drilling a 1/16" hole in the IM shaft from the sump?

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1391903821.jpg

Not sure what you mean. I would not drill the IMS tube between the end fittings from a structural consideration standpoint. That's not to say it would certainly lead to a failure over time, but it's not a slam dunk it won't start a crack and fail the tube over time.

James, if I'm not mistaken, there is a fixt that sells a oil feed using something similar to what you describe.

Jake, tell us why wouldn't this work?

Much like the factory cam timing procedure, this configuration of the oil system is missing some critical points.

Having an oil flow from the pump would be nice. If I were to use engine oil for lubrication, I figure 10cc/min would be enough to keep the bearing in oil, under certain conditions.
I am looking at vacuum powered pumps now.

Walter,

What are you doing to that poor engine? It looks a little... experimental.

That was a minute ago, now I am back on grease. After playing with bearings over-packed with grease, I found out that they will just poop out the excess grease through the seals within a minute or two and remain perfectly happy. And heat just isn't a problem at the RPMs they will be turning.

Here's the latest experiment

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1392396714.jpg

Molded seal. I will try it out this weekend, after it fully cures.

I decided to spend my time omitting the ball bearing, rather than applying a band aid :-)

What I like about you Walter, is that you work in that kingdom where great ideas come from. I think many may look at your ideas and think , "what the heck?". I know I do, some are downright scary to me, but that's the land where really inventive and great ideas come from. Keep it up!

Thanks James. This IMS bearing thing has been fun.

If I were to go this route, this is the way I would want to do it



http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1392487482.jpg

As I have mentioned, I think 10 cc/min would keep oil flowing out the bearing.

Can a blanking plate be fitted before inserting the new IMS bearing. this would stop oil getting into IMS shaft and stop air pressure into bearing from inside shaft, just a thought.

Jamesp,

Can you fit a blanking plate into end of IMS before fitting bearing.

Wow - a blast from the past! A couple of thoughts on the blanking plate:

The IMS shaft is a pressed assembly and a sealed blanking plate would turn it into a pressure vessel. one that gets temperature and pressure cycled every time the engine runs. That would likely disassemble the IMS tube over time with disastrous results.

The plate would be hard to seal, and would take up real estate on the IMS bearing bore the bearing needs, so the bearing would not fit without additional machining of the IMS shaft which would be complicated.

The IMS threads sure have legs!

I sprung for a Durametric (BUY ONE OF THESE!) and my valve timing is still rock solid after a couple thousand miles with my unique IMS bearing fix which is at least a start. Now I have cam sensor problem I'm chasing and it looks like something electronic crapped out. The engine harness buzzes out clean so I'm looking at the driver for the sensor. My thought is the sensor is not getting energized, just like my thought was the engine harness had a broken wire. Oh well, time will tell and it's a hobby. With luck I wont smoke my ECU searching for voltage. I'm thinking about documenting troubleshooting the camshaft sensor and posting it here as there is almost no information on it on this forum or the rest of the internet. Anybody interested?

Indy IMS fix.
 

My local indy mechanic has been working on these cars for years. His fix is the EPS fix shown in this video: http://vimeo.com/89968767
He charges $1400 to do this on cars with Tiptronic, which includes all parts and includes changing out the AOS, belt, and plugs.

IMS replacement - Indianapolis
 

Sorry guys but I'm really needing some help on this one. My 2002 986-S is about to send me to the poorer farm :) Anyone know of a good non-Dealer in Indianapolis or close who could handle my IMS replacement. 35,000 miles but I'm paranoid, it had been garaged for most of its life prior to my purchase at 29,000. I guess I should also take this opportunity to replace the clutch?

thanks in advance for any advice..

A list is available at Porsche Repair Shops & Mechanics Near Indianapolis IN | PCarShops.com.

Can't vouch for any of them. Ask your local PCA group or find out who preps M96 engines for racing in your area.

The part he is center punching is the only thing holding the oil pump drive key from falling into the IMS shaft during operation. I see these failures occur without the assistance of a center punch.

It helps to understand the anatomy of the patient before performing the surgical procedure.

This looks eerily similar to post 192 in this thread, which seems to have some fatal, if yet undefined flaw. Looks good to me, but I'll punch holes in an IMS shaft with very little provocation. Careful with that oil pressure however!

Hello i made a big mess on my Boxster S 987 3.4 L
I remove the flange to change the rubber seal of IMS without locking the Crankshaft
and now the shaft is on a side.
What should i do now !
Please check the attached photos
Thank you in advancehttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1420877148.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1420877164.jpg

The problem isn't that you didn't lock the crankshaft, it's that you didn't undo the chain tensioner.

There are plenty of good detailed write ups on doing this job correctly. If you look at one you'll see you caused yourself a ton of extra work. You are now facing a complete cam timing job.

I think that happens to more than a few people.
I don't know if it will help, but read through this thread if you haven't already:
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/35618-ims-install-help-ims-bearing-not-centered.html

Be very cautious how you proceed. As Flaps10 implied, you will probably have to release all the tension from your cam chains, recenter the shaft, then reset your cam timing. Trying to force anything or taking short-cuts will probably damage your engine and lead to more problems.

So i face a big problem now ,
Any other advice ?

Thank you i will check the link now ,
If you get any more info over forum , Appreciate let me know
Best regards