10-10-2013, 04:46 PM
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#1
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No start!
While driving home a few days ago the car stumbled a few times and was down on power- didn't want to rev either. Next morning, wouldn't start- turns over fine and a friend can smell fuel at the tailpipe while it's turning over. So, I bought a durametric. Codes are P1133 and 1126. All of the reading here suggests MAF. Today, I looked at all of the fuses and didn't find any blown. The relays in the no. 2 relay block looked good and didn't smell burnt. Why won't it start? Is it flooding itself? Should I unplug the MAF and see if that helps? Help please!
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10-10-2013, 10:07 PM
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#2
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Are these indications of a bad crank position sensor?
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Last edited by Jager; 10-10-2013 at 10:11 PM.
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10-10-2013, 10:13 PM
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#3
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Location: Montreal, QC. (currently expat to Shanghai)
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Had the coilpack and fuel injectors changed two years ago... very similar symptoms however it didn't happened overnight (more like within a week or so)
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10-11-2013, 04:30 AM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodsman
While driving home a few days ago the car stumbled a few times and was down on power- didn't want to rev either. Next morning, wouldn't start- turns over fine and a friend can smell fuel at the tailpipe while it's turning over. So, I bought a durametric. Codes are P1133 and 1126. All of the reading here suggests MAF. Today, I looked at all of the fuses and didn't find any blown. The relays in the no. 2 relay block looked good and didn't smell burnt. Why won't it start? Is it flooding itself? Should I unplug the MAF and see if that helps? Help please!
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Neither code has anything to do with the MAF, they are indicating that your have an overly lean condition on bank 2 (cylinders 4-6). Most common faults are an intake air leak, low fuel pressure, bad injectors or low volume of fuel supply. The two of the last three possible are doubtful as low fuel pressure or volume would affect both banks.
I would start by looking for any possible air leaks that could lean out that bank, but for the sake of elimination would hook up a fuel test gauge to the test port and check both pressure and delivery.
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10-11-2013, 10:40 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jager
Are these indications of a bad crank position sensor?
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Apparently not.
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10-11-2013, 10:43 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine8Six
Had the coilpack and fuel injectors changed two years ago... very similar symptoms however it didn't happened overnight (more like within a week or so)
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Wow that must have been expensive!
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10-11-2013, 10:59 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
Neither code has anything to do with the MAF, they are indicating that your have an overly lean condition on bank 2 (cylinders 4-6). Most common faults are an intake air leak, low fuel pressure, bad injectors or low volume of fuel supply. The two of the last three possible are doubtful as low fuel pressure or volume would affect both banks.
I would start by looking for any possible air leaks that could lean out that bank, but for the sake of elimination would hook up a fuel test gauge to the test port and check both pressure and delivery.
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OK thanks JFP, I'll head in that direction. Any ideas why it won't start?
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10-11-2013, 11:09 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodsman
OK thanks JFP, I'll head in that direction. Any ideas why it won't start?
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Consider my fuel pressure and delivery volume test mentioned above.....
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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10-11-2013, 11:32 AM
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#9
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What about those $19.99 fuel pressure tester you find in the Auto store, are they compatible with the fuel test port on the 986?
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Last edited by Nine8Six; 10-11-2013 at 11:41 AM.
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10-11-2013, 11:40 AM
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#10
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edit above
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'97 Boxster base model 2.5L, Guards Red/Tan leather, with a new but old Alpine am/fm radio.
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10-11-2013, 11:47 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
Consider my fuel pressure and delivery volume test mentioned above.....
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okay I'll try to buy one that fits today. Thanks
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10-11-2013, 11:50 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine8Six
What about those $19.99 fuel pressure tester you find in the Auto store, are they compatible with the fuel test port on the 986?
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So far I've only located one for $60 and Porsche wasn't included in it's list of
recommended vehicles. My baby's VERY sick- I'm worried.
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10-11-2013, 12:14 PM
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#13
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Not sick, she just had enough of you and taking a break for a few days  What I've learn on the 986 is when they are still good enough to throw accurate codes at you, it always ends up to be a small problem.
Once you've slammed in an aftermarket (NEW) fuel pump in it, she'll wake up again. Hoping it's only the FP (overnight failure like this... like JFP said I can't imagine anything else)
 Brand New Genuine Fuel Pump for Porsche 911 Boxster | eBay
Once she is running again, slap her good old GF style with one of these 
 T3 T4 Turbo Intercooler Blow Off Valve Fuel Pump Heat Shield Piping Kit | eBay
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'97 Boxster base model 2.5L, Guards Red/Tan leather, with a new but old Alpine am/fm radio.
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10-11-2013, 12:15 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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quick search indicates maf as the general culprit. unplug it and see what happens.
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10-11-2013, 12:22 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine8Six
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She got me home- now she's REALLY sick- no start! I owe her big time and I'm committed to healing her! And no forced induction EVER- the IMSB will shatter!!! 
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10-11-2013, 12:27 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Radium King
quick search indicates maf as the general culprit. unplug it and see what happens.
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What's your source for the de-coding? I've found 3 different charts! It's a little confusing!
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10-11-2013, 12:53 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodsman
What's your source for the de-coding? I've found 3 different charts! It's a little confusing!
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The MAF has little impact below 3,500 - 4,000 RPM, it should not impact starting....
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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10-11-2013, 01:23 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
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fair enough. I just googled the codes and they show up together pretty consistently and seem to almost always point to maf in the results. but yeah, it should still start, unless the trims perhaps are all screwed up or something?
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10-11-2013, 02:10 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: weehawken nj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
The MAF has little impact below 3,500 - 4,000 RPM, it should not impact starting....
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It can impact starting if its shorted out. Although it is unusual.
Id recommend unplugging the sensor and seeing if it fires up.
If that doesnt do it, check for spark, fuel pressure, and injector pulse. If you cant check for injector pulse, a lack of both spark and fuel delivery will be enough to condemn the main relay or the crank position sensor.
The reason you wont see spark of fuel with a bad crank sensor is because the ECU needs to see 150-200 rpm ( cranking ) before closing the relay and sending spark and injector pulse signals....
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10-11-2013, 03:21 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
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I'm going to try locating a fuel press. tester today and then I'll also try unplugging the MAF' tonight. I would think that the crank sen. would cost the least.... Thanks for the help folks. It's soon time to put baby away for winter so I'm anxious to get this solved!
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