I know how to do it without the above *trick* parts, but I don't have any pieces made right now to build you a set :(

Because of the SCCA "stock" class rules, I cant run the above *trick* pieces in some of my cars, so we had to come up with *something* that something works in this case/for you.

what if I slotted the upper mount holes and got to -1 CAM???
Geez all I did was move the ROW M030 strut down .625" in the hub carrier...that's easy to reverse...how much can you lower these before needing adjustable tie-rods Brad?

Maybe I could have some threaded spacers made for the cylindrical part??

Just move them back up.. and don't fool with mother nature :)

I push the rubber bushing out and install an offset mounting hole (made from alum) in the tow link (at the inside mounting point)

and FYI

NEXT time... TELL US/ME that you moved the strut down!!

I could have ended this thread 10posts ago!!! :mad:

You ran out of adjustment on the toe link do to the car being too low. MO30 by itself does not accomplish this!!

sorry about that. I appreciate your help Brad. Total lowering should (!-going to MEASURE tonight) only be 1"- I never dreamed I'd cause so much hassle!

NICE!hmmmn

I appreciate your attempt :) You had the right idea, just didn't have the rest of the parts to pull it off!!

I have run shorter shocks, and moved them up :)

I have also run a specific Porsche upright that moves the wheel bearing up 2inches in the upright, but does not change the suspension geometry.

You just have to know what to buy :)

I measured the ride height- FR is lower by 1" and RR is lower by .5"!! I was expecting an additional .5" lowering FR and RR...The FR I can live with but why is the suspension so out of spec after .5"lowering? I'm not totally susprised that the rear isn't as low as I expected since I bought the Tip set (my car is a 6-speed)as it was $250 cheaper. I thought hey I'll get a little higher spring rate (assumption) and more neutral handling--perfect! Maybe the rate's the same and the coil length is greater, hence less lowering???That's fine too but why's it so out of spec??? Dammit, new OEM parts and still more probs.

I also have the tip M030 kit on my manual S. Its a 'normal' kit for me but ROW for you guys. My front was lowered by a mere 6mm and the rear was actually raised by 5mm. Original suspension had done 70k miles but was rig tested and still good.

100's of time throughout my Porsche life, my customer cars went out riding higher than they did when they came in (after a spring change) LOL. Nobody considers that worn ass stock spring.

The assumption is: "They last forever".. umm... NO

It wasn't unexpected per se in my case as a lot of measurements and work had been done before the M030 was fitted and it was known to be running as low as an M030 car before the M030 was fitted. It was interesting to see the effect of the tip kit and stiffer rear springs though.

so are you saying the spring rate slowly drops and this causes a similar drop in ride height?
and Brad- at -.5" rear ride height should my specs be this far off??? Are Taret arms a bandaid or a justifiable and expected cure? Are the offset bushings you make a .002" pressfit and have any ever split the cast arm after they're in use?

EDC- I fabricated another hole in the strut an inch higher to get the result I've got----1" drop FRONT

What's the Max camber you can get with the additional lowering?

I actually don't really want to lower the car much more if at all but interested to hear what results you can get from a Geo perspective.

I'm currently at FR -1.1, -1.2 and RR -2.1, -2.2 with adjusters set for min camber and toe-in. My camber adjustment seems to have more effect on toe than camber. The two points of adjustment are so geographically close to one another and that dam unyielding trailing arm! Augh

I am at just over -1.5 degrees neg camber on the front but I have the top mount slots drilled. There may be a fraction more to go. The rear is just under -1.5.

EDC is your car neutral at the limit? That's what I'm looking for...