Oil Leak - Pulling Trans to change RMS, IMS, Clutch, etc
 

So, I've completely restored my 1998 Boxster. You can see the project here: http://986forum.com/forums/show-tell-gallery/43078-1998-boxster-project-complete-restoration.html

Now its time to tackle the mechanical stuff. She's got a small oil leak right where the trans and engine mate. I'm guessing its the RMS, but I suppose it could be the IMS.

So today I put her up on my lift and started the process of pulling the transmission. I got all the parts that need to be removed just prior to pulling the trans done. I will likely pull the trans on Saturday.

My plan is to replace the IMS with the LN Dual Row Bearing, RMS, and install a new 987 Clutch and Pressure plate. All the new parts are in-hand and ready to go!

Any advice from those who have done this project before is welcome :)

One question I do have is that both the Bentley Manual and the 101Projects manual both say to remove the muffler. I have an aftermarket exhaust (like a Borla) and there seems to be plenty of room between the exhaust pipes and the back end of the transmission. I would like to attempt removing the trans with out taking off the muffler. Has anyone else attempted this?

I will update this thread along the way and share any insights I gain along the way.

Here is the oil in the garage. Mind you this is froma few months of sitting there.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368249463.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368249532.jpg

Here is a close up of where the oil is dripping from.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368249596.jpg

Detached the CV Joints from the Transmission

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368249664.jpg

Looking up at the Back Up Switch on the Clutch Slave Cylinder

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368249776.jpg

Unplugged the Back Up Switch Harness

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368249838.jpg

About to disconnect the Shift Cables from the Transmission.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368249910.jpg

Sorry Doc,

You will need to remove the exhaust, at least the muffler portion anyway. Besides, it allows you to be able to "sit up" inside the tranny area to get your IMS in straight and torque the bolts properly.

Make triple sure you lock down the engine at TDC VERY WELL. I used 2 cam locks AND a separate bar on the Flywheel bolts, and the pin in the Flywheel. May have been overkill but I was not going to let the patient die from a timing issue.

There ARE several instructions out there, be careful which you choose!

IMHO @Meir produced the most helpful and best writeups. @Meir's instructions were almost 100% accurate. I consulted instructions from 5 different authors, the least helpful were from LNE. I am not saying any more on the subject.

expect the dualmass flywheel to need replacement as well:(

Thanks for the heads up about locking in tdc. Ive already read a bunch of instructions and watched videos on YouTube. Where do I find the right up you're referring to?

Why should I expect this? From the oil leak? Or just as a routine thing?

The elastomer layer in the flywheel does not like oil, tends to soften it. Check it for twist per OEM specs, if it is out, it has to be replaced.

Why should I expect this? From the oil leak? Or just as a routine thing?

Hi D.
This is the link to my expiriance that Homeboy is talking about.
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/37984-winter-project.html
Will be happy to lend you the LN tools in case you need.
Good luck.

Huh, that explains why my flywheel wouldn't bounce back…live and learn.

Anyway, drbodzin - here is the link you asked for…

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/37984-winter-project.html

Good Luck!

Dept. of Redundancy Dept.

Thank you! I already have the tools though.

I'm able to twist the flywheel about 10mm in each direction by hand. Is it suppose to spring back to the same spot? It goes back, but not with a sudden spring. Sorta "eases" back.

Got more done today. Ended up taking out the muffler and both cats. Got the transmission out today. Took the pressure plate off too. Next, the flywheel, etc.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368326651.jpg

To support the engine, I just used some wood. I will definitely say this job was made a lot easier with the scissor lift. Not sure I would have done this without it.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368326688.jpg

And here she is with the transmission dropped out.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1368326724.jpg

Doc,

What the hell. You're a chiropractor, right? Where did you learn to wrench? How do you have the time? ...just curious. Enjoying the step by step photos; thanks.

Great time to replace the AOS, oil fill tube, and the coolant tank while they are "easier" to access.

Your FW is good.
It doesn't need to spring back to the starting point, bat has to go back ther, and twist the same way to the other side.
When doing my project, I decided to replace the FW anyway ( thought I'm going to keep my car for ever). The new FW, acted axactly the same as the old one, only required a bit more force to twist.

+1.
I also replaced the oil filler tube.
Don't even want to imagine what it takes to do that task with the trans on.

Was wondering the same thing! The scissors lift makes a big difference. Impressive job Dr:cheers:

Well that's a good question. In my youth I dropped a few VW bug engines and transmissions. Its been a long time though.

Yes I'm a chiropractor. But I don't see patients any longer. I did for nearlly 20 years. But now I serve the chiropractic profession through my software company. Which gives me a lot more flexibility in my schedule and time to spend on my hobbies and stuff.

This forum has helped a lot in knowing what and how to wrench on the Boxster. Plus I got some good manuals and there's plenty of online video tutorials. :D

Hi Paul
Thanks. What is an AOS?