No cold air

[1olddude]

Went with the top up today and turned on the air conditioner. I could tell the compressor kicked on but it only blows hot air. I don't know a thing about this system so I thought I'd toss it out to the masses. Any thoughts or do I have to take it to the stealer? I know, just drive with the top down. Sometimes it is just too hot.

[AKnowles]

So many possibilities from worn out o-rings that leak, bad condensor, bad pump, etc. that it's best to take it to someone with the right equipment. Doesn't have to be a dealer though if you have a good independant available.

[1olddude]

You are right. I last used it in the fall and it as blowing really cold then so that's why I'm baffled. Seems strange to go from perfect to terrible so fast.

[AKnowles]

Actually, that make perfect sense if the refridgerant all leaked out. Most cars, and I assume the Boxster too, run the compressor when the defroster is engaged so that in the cooler months the refridgerent and more importantly the lubricant gets a chance to be cycled and keep the o-rings and seals from drying out. If they dry out, you get a leak. Usually you need to replace the o-rings or seals to solve the problem and then refill it. A good tech shop can isolate the leak. You can too if you have a black-light and the right tools to refill your compressor and insert the dye. I've done it in the past, but nowadays I just take it to a specialist.

[1olddude]

Thanks for the help. I don't know any indies here so I guess the dealer will have a look. I hate giving them my money but I don't have experience in this area.

[1olddude]

Are these cars just prone to leaking freon, because I have had other cars for 20 years and they still blow cold air having never been recharged?

[thom4782]

Any good quality AC shop can do the necessary testing work. It's a two stage process.

First, they will fill the system with new refrigerant and a dye. If there is a gross leak, the shop's sniffer might be able to detect it right away. They'll need to be through though because there are many places where the refrigerant can escape.

Second, if there is no obvious leak, then you'll need to wait a few days or weeks until the AC system starts to blow warm air again. When this happens, the AC shop will use a UV light to look for dye throughout the system so it can find the source of the leak.

Here's a big diagnostic trick to keep in mind. If the evaporator is leaking from inside the sealed AC/heating box under the dash, have the AC shop peel back the passenger side carpet, pull the drain hose up and look for dye inside the hose. If it's there, the evaporator is leaking.

Good luck.

PS: My car started leaking when it hit the 10 year mark. I would not be surprised if that about the time people start seeing that the AC system needs repairs.

[Topless]

Check with your local PCA for a good reference on a trusted A/C shop in your area. They know who the good guys are and who the snakes are. Here is a generic list:
Porsche Repair Shops & Mechanics in Utah | PCarShops.com

I damaged one of my radiators about 4 years ago and the process of replacing it put stress on the condenser o-rings. The refrigerant leaked out but a recharge was all that was needed. Still blows cold.

Other possibilities are a failed mix flap preventing air flow over the evaporator. Foam coming out the vents is the symptom of this.

[shadrach74]

Originally Posted by 1olddude

Are these cars just prone to leaking freon, because I have had other cars for 20 years and they still blow cold air having never been recharged?

Daily drivers not so much. Any garage queen will have a greater chance of seal failure...

[1olddude]

Topless: Thank you for the link. This forum is awesome.

[insite]

1olddude -

let's check some simple things before you take it into the shop.
FIRST
pop the hood and remove the battery cover. next to the battery on the passenger side, remove the black plastic cover. beneath this, you will see some aluminum AC lines. start the car & turn the AC on full blast. let it run for 5min and feel the larger of the AC lines. is it very cold? if so, the problem is not your compressor.

SECOND
if the line gets cold, you have a problem with the mixing flaps that control airflow inside the dashboard. they are all controlled by the climatronic unit (the one that says Manuel on the dashboard). the problem is usually this unit. pop the trim piece out from around the climatronic. remove the screws. pull out the unit. use a small wire brush to clean all the terminal. do the same with the plugs themselves. re-install. there is a TSB for this; condensation from the vents will drip water onto the plugs & cause corrosion & poor contact. this can cause the climatronic to act funny.

you can do both of these things in about 20min. let us know how it goes!

kev

[1olddude]

Thanks insite. I will give that a look on the weekend and let you know what I find. I appreciate the post and help.

[TKP]

Hi all

I am new to forum, so I appreciate all the help given

Have 2000 boxster w/ a/c issue. I have been following the recommendation many of you have given. A/C recently started blowing hot air when on. System is fully charged. Foam is still in place behind climatronic system. However, foam coming from side vents and large a/c pipe doesn’t get cold.

Any other suggestions to look at before I have to take it to the shop.

TKP
New Jersey

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by TKP

Hi all

I am new to forum, so I appreciate all the help given

Have 2000 boxster w/ a/c issue. I have been following the recommendation many of you have given. A/C recently started blowing hot air when on. System is fully charged. Foam is still in place behind climatronic system. However, foam coming from side vents and large a/c pipe doesn’t get cold.

Any other suggestions to look at before I have to take it to the shop.

TKP
New Jersey

I'd recommend you begin reading from post 1 on this thread. Your answer may lie herein.

[Stl-986]

Foam isn't in place if it's coming out the vents but that isn't your only issue. How do you know the system is charged...correctly? Only way to know is to hook up gauges to it.

btw, the foam issue isn't something you want the shop to fix unless you are prepared for a big price tag for them to remove the dash, hvac box and replace with a whole new unit from Porsche. The foam fix is a DIY solution only, I dont think any shop would do it.

Oh and if you do have issues it is better to create a new post vs one from 8 years ago.

[78F350]

One of my Boxsters had trouble with the AC a couple years ago. The engine was also running a little bit hot, but still within acceptable range. It would get hotter sitting in traffic or stopped. I found out that the radiator fan was not blowing on high speed. The problem was the fan resistor.

If you think that may be a problem, check these:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/926035-step-by-step-diy-with-pics-radiator-ballast-resistor-replacement.html
Low Speed Fan Resistor Alternative

[TKP]

Thanks for the suggestions. I did put a gauge on it that’s why I know it’s charged. Going to look again at previous threads to see if I can find anything that can help. I appreciate your thoughts and look forward to checking the forum on a regular basis.
Be well and thanks again
TKP

[Stl-986]

Did you put a gauge on both the low & high sides? Those cheap gauges that come on cans from the autoparts stores will only tell you half the story. You need to put a gauge on both sides to know what's going on.

Also, just to prepare you for the foam issue. If you take it to the dealer for this, they will tell you they have to replace the airbox. There is no part to fix just the mixer. They will only do the entire airbox. MSRP is $2051 just for the part alone. Figure at least 6-8 hours of labor as well as a complete drain of coolant & AC as well as recharge of both. They will also most likely (they should anyway) include new o-rings and a new AC drier. Ultimately you would be looking at least $4k for the dealer to fix this....AND!!!! the foam will come through the vents again when it breaks down.

This is why there is a DIY on this. 2 method, through the radio or through the heater core. Half a day at home to do either and maybe $20 in materials.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by TKP

Thanks for the suggestions. I did put a gauge on it that’s why I know it’s charged. Going to look again at previous threads to see if I can find anything that can help. I appreciate your thoughts and look forward to checking the forum on a regular basis.

Be well and thanks again

TKP

Just because them system is pressurized doesn't mean that it's properly charged. How long have you owned the car? Did it ever blow cold work that you know of?

If the car is new to you and it has never worked then I would start by draining the system and properly filling it (with a vacuum tool). Most people just refill the circuit with the cans from the parts warehouse and don't bother to completely evacuate the circuit first, which creates a pressurized but nonfunctional system.

If the system was working properly and has just suddenly quit, I would look at the compressor wiring. Chances are that it's not switching on - possibly a blown fuse or chewed up wiring.

Sent from my SM-T595 using Tapatalk

[pilot4fn]

From previous owner on untill my ownership now about 2-years, my car AC has not been working.
This is a hobby / track car with my son, so we have slowly inspected the relays, condensers, compressor and also troubleshooted with Durametric - all seemed fine.

Couple of weeks ago I tested very briefly from the AC fill valve if there is any pressure in the system and it gave a good sign of pressure (did not measure it).

Last week I had my 2001 Boxster AC drier can + O-rings changed and also the system re-charged.
The AC system took in 800g of refrigerant while the system capacity is 850g...
As soon as the systm was refilled properly at the shop, it has been working very nice almost a week now and blows ice cold air :dance: