223whp & 207tq
 

Did a baseline dyno yesterday. 223/207 were the dyno jet numbers. Car is desnorked with a bb muffler. Will be adding headers and bypass pipes. Wanted to see where it was first.

Post the chart if you can!

Pretty Strong for an 11 year old car there Brad. :cheers:

What year and model car do you have? I have been looking at the BB muffler also.

02box S. it was coresellers car that I bought a little over a year ago. it came with the bb exhaust and desnork. i have an evoms CAI and top speed headers/bypass pipes to install and wanted a baseline. Plans are to rework the CAI and seal it as we'll as add an udp and ipd plenum. Will dyno after each to see results. Going with the top speed setup bc it was just darn cheap, <350.00 for headers and bypass pipes. Quality looks decent so I figured I would take a chance.

15% drivetrain loss indicates 256fwhp. I was pleased. She has always felt strong. Hoping to see 230+ after exhaust. I am hoping it will be bearably loud.

I'm sitting here chuckling, I didn't even know it was desnorkled........seriously. I did know it was a quick little feller though. Enjoy the modding Brad :cheers:

Not planning a ton of mods. I have a set of volk forged wheels going on this month. I will add coilovers and big sways later. That is it for mods until she needs a new motor. Then it's off to rabys.

I consider 225/210 stock for a strong 3.2 our my dyno jet.

Well I guess I did indeed pick the right boxster to buy. So far so good. We will see what happens adding the exhaust.

Brad, you should "resnork" it and dyno it before you do any else. It would be nice to see the difference...

Don't have the snork. Car came without it. Sorry.

If I send you my "snork" would you use it to do a comparo? Would be nice!

Please do!

can't find this thread, but someone already did it.
the dyno shows +5HP with the car desnork .
however, some say it is not accurate since the dyno is done when the car is stationary. the assumption is that the car gets "air rammed" when on the move.
so basically some claim the desnork is not adding any power despite the dyno results.
i think it doesn't really matter. it sound good, and you are definitely not loosing power.

Actually, some of the learned folks on this forum (Mr.Raby I believe is one) claim that overall there is a loss over most of the rev range with a desnork. There may be a certain rpm that shows a gain, but overall I've heard it will slow the car down...even though it may sound faster.

New exhaust is already on the car so no joy. Sorry. Best I can do is offer a comparison bw a mostly stock exhaust and headers/bypass pipes added.

Later I will add the CAI, udp, and ipd plenum. I will dyno after each. Hopefully it will give decent data.

5hp more or no change or loss of power, that's why some incl. me suggested to do another before/after desnork.... Oh well!

Well good news and bad. Good news first. Headers, bypass pipes and BB muffler is only loud when you romp on it and all resonance/drone is gone. Mark, the previous owner had considered reinstalling the factory muffler bc of the drone. It's all gone. Car actually sounds quieter inside! Wife says its pretty loud when I passed her but that was accelerating past 5k rpms. I am more than happy with the sound.

Bad news...had to install both sets of the max speed mini cats. The front 02 sensor wiring wasn't long enough to reach. So now the 02 sensors are both reading the same and I have a cel. I guess I need to extend the wires or else get a 90 adapter. My only fear with an adapter is that the 02 sensor will be too far out if the 02 stream to read correctly. Right now I imagine its running in strictly open loop mode.

Advice?

See if the rear O2 sensors are long enough to work in the front, they should. If so you may want to get new rears & install in the front. You may get a CEL for slow heating of the O2's so keep in mind to minimize that.

Thanks pro. I usually do my own work but things are so hectic with work lately that I just have to pay someone else at this point. If the rear o2 sensors are longer then that seems like an easy fix. What's the worry over the heater? Would I be better served to try something different? My mechanic was able to make it work with the 90 degree max speed mini cat so the distance is probably about 2".

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1358020836.jpg

Here is what I have right now. You can see the mini cats. My thought right now is to take the downstream mini cats out of the header and switch the connections for the 02 sensors. Essentially the downstream sensor would be read as the upstream sensor, while vice versa would be true. By pulling the mini cat out downstream, The upstream 02 sensor would be reading out of the collector rather than the primary tube. Would this work?

Would this work and make life easy? Just extend the first sensors?

RX-O2EXT

I only see 1 O2 bung in the pic, but the rear O2 wire is about 5" longer than the front O2. Ideally you try the rears in the front bung & if they reach just buy 2 new rear O2's to use in the front & use the old rear O2's in the rear with the "mini cats". If the O2's don't get to operating temp quick enough for the DME it lites the CEL & logs a P code.

Thanks again for the reply pro driver. Is it ok to buy the bosch o2 sensors? Porsche and pelican are awfully high on these only to find out I have another fault due to the slow heating. Darn I didn't see any of this coming.

Ps. Look slightly up and to the left of the "obvious" o2 sensor and you see the block like piece? That's the max speed 90 degree sensor.

I use the Bosche 15182 front & I think the rear is 15183. 996 same year is even longer leads if you need longer. I think the only way to avoid the heating CEL is the put the front O2 bung closer to the exhaust port, OR the new route I am trying, NHP sport cats with Fabspeed secondarys ceramic coated inside & out.






http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1358276713.jpg

prodriver, thanks again. i was about to order the secondary sensors part#15183 when i read your post. i'd like to see what the length is on the 996 pre-cat sensors, but the bosch part number i find is 17044. this is listed as a 5 wire sensor and the connector looks different than the boxster one from the images i've seen. the lengths of the pre vs. post cat bosch sensors for the boxster are 245mm front and 405mm post-cat. realistically all i need is a 300-325mm length. if the 996 front sensor is closer to 300mm then it would likely eliminate the risk of heater p codes. do you have a part # that i can reference? fwiw i am going to ceramic coat the headers if they are shown to give gains. i also may end up having to relocate a sensor bung further up into the primaries, but would rather not if i can just find an appropriate sensor. thanks.

brad

sgt brad, I went with the top speed header back set up on my 2000 2.7. (headers, cat deletes and mufflers). I am in the process of lengthening the O2 wiring.

From my experience with Bosche O2's a 5 wire is a wide band unit while a 4 wire is not. I've used the 5 wire in some of the turbo cars I've built in the past in order to log the air fuel to tune AEM and other stand alone ecu's with.

Bosche also make "universal" 4 wire O2's that come with a good length of wire that I might give a try. You just connect your plug to the new O2 wire with the supplied splice connector. I've used them in everything from BMW's to Honda's with great success.

Partsgeek.com has them for the up and down stream for most years boxsters. Prices are $44-$64.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/O21358293155.jpg

On a side note, coated pipes and headers are great on boosted cars as they keep the heat in the pipes and help a large turbo spool a little faster. Not really seen much of a gain in power with them on a NA car. But they should help with the heat up of the O2 as the coating will help to slow the dissipation of heat threw the SS pipes.

I had planned to use the universal sensor, but have read some problems on Porsches. I don't know how true they are, but its only 100.00 ea for the bosch plug and play ones that are boxster specific. I can't imagine the heater issue being a big concern, but I am trying to cover all of the bases.

Update...new sensors in and ecu reset. Lasted 200 miles and cel came on. Codes are p1119 and p0154. I am thinking that the right side front sensor wasn't plugged in securely and came loose. I am going to have it on the lift this Friday, but was going to see what y'all have to say. Any thoughts? Does my idea have merit or am I looking at the proverbial o2sensor merry go round?

How is the "proverbial o2sensor merry go round" going?

Did you solve the problem without CELs?

I have a set of headers coming, already have the bypass and cat backs installed….was worrying about the O2 dilemma and how to solve it?

Advice to a header noob would be appreciated.

It seems like the failure is actually the new bosch o2 sensor on the passengers side. I am going to replace it under warranty the next time the car is on the lift. I can give more details after the swap.

Haven't replaced the o2 sensor yet, still having cel periodically from that particular sensor so I am fairly certain that it is the sensor. Sometimes it is a slow heating code, sometimes an out of range code. Never consistent which tells me it is the sensor. I have another one to install, but have been busy having the new suspension installed.

Fwiw I did the bilsteins and h&r springs/sways with tarett drop links. Will need rear toe links to get less than 2 degrees of negative rear camber, but the stance and handling are amazing. As a non track car it is just awesome. Sure pss9 is better, but I have zero complaints. Pics soon. And I will figure out the exhaust and sensor issue and update everyone.

Would this mean moving the catalyst elements out of the header and to the secondary pipe section would result in improper heating time?

I was thinking about straight headers and Fabspeed cats in front of the muffler would give a better exhaust flow set up.

This would involve putting in long o2 sensor wires and shielding them from heat.

Has anyone successfully accomplished this without getting coded

I have with Dansk sport cat secondarys & everything ceramic coated. Car ran great, but O2 heating & AFR P codes.

Thanks you saved me a lot grief..... like your set up. What did you pay for your headers?

I ceramic coated my muffller as well

That was my 3.2 exhaust setup. Current 3.6 exhaust is in post 26.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1369615692.jpg


This was a couple of months ago on stock springs.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1369615758.jpg


This is today with new bilsteins and h&r springs/sways