08-06-2012, 05:24 AM
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#1
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DIY extremist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 348
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Going to go do it today (I run my own biz, so I can get greasy on Monday mornings
Wish me luck, hopefully I won't kill my engine!
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"Betty" -- 2000 Boxster S, Triple Black, loaded except PSM (sold to a good home)
"Veronica" -- 2008 Boxster S, Arctic Silver on Blue
"Maleficent" -- 2007 Cayman S, Red and Black, TPC Turbo 3.6L 460 RWHP, H&R RSS Coilover / TPC stage 2 suspension
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08-06-2012, 06:29 PM
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#2
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DIY extremist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 348
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it did not go well at all today.
Try as I might, I couldn't get the stud to press back into bearing evenly. I tried putting the cover on to pull the whole thing into place, but every time I did so, the stud would pop back out. I pulled the bearing again and tried to get the pelican stud into the factory cover and realized that it was never going to work in the motor -- the fit was just too tight and it was always going to overcome the pressfit of the stud into the bearing.
I reverted to the OEM stud, which the cover fits onto just fine... only problem is that I think I must've inadvertently tossed the M8 1.0mm thread nut that fits onto the smaller OEM stud.
Anyone know where I can get another one of these nuts? The hardware stores don't have anything with that fine of thread. Anyone think it's not worth it to reuse the OEM bearing retainer stud? Mine seems fine.
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"Betty" -- 2000 Boxster S, Triple Black, loaded except PSM (sold to a good home)
"Veronica" -- 2008 Boxster S, Arctic Silver on Blue
"Maleficent" -- 2007 Cayman S, Red and Black, TPC Turbo 3.6L 460 RWHP, H&R RSS Coilover / TPC stage 2 suspension
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08-06-2012, 10:36 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: France
Posts: 32
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Sorry about your failled attempt but nothing is lost..
I thing that you cannot put back the stud in place because you don't pull it in the axis of the bearing
so to achieve that you should build a little tool (basically a piece of steel with a hole in the middle) which is going to cover the bearing without touching the engine case( because your bearing is not well alligned yet).. The stud should enter the outer part of the bearing without a big effort unless it has been damaged.
I thought that the retrofit set had a bigger axis to prevent faillure ( The one I bought is bigger).
Keep in mind that so far you didn't dammage your engine and you can still fix the situation you are in, no rush, a lot of thinking, and worst case scenario would be to buy a new set and to not damage it learning from the présent situation.
can you still put a nut on you stud ?
ph.
Last edited by philou320; 08-07-2012 at 08:05 AM.
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08-07-2012, 08:33 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: US, Calif
Posts: 72
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I have one...
Hi Blackbox,
Part of the upgrade bearing is the stronger shaft. I'm not sure how many failures (if any) of the OEM shaft have occurred but someone felt it was better to have the stronger shaft. It almost sounds like the Pelican stud is damaged because it should fit without too much pressure. Given that, if you are going to use the old stud then I believe I still have the nut that came off of mine. I can send it to you. It might be better however at this point to research with Pelican on why the shaft didn't fit. Maybe... they can arrange to send you a new one. It's worth a query to them. If you get that worked out and since the bearing is out you might put the stud in the freezer for a while and then press it into the bearing with a socket that matches the inner race of the bearing and your shop vise. It should just press right in. Send me a private note with your address and I'll send you the nut if you wish to go that route. Cheers,
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08-07-2012, 04:20 PM
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#5
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DIY extremist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 348
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My Boxster is turning into a black pearl!
I noticed a little friction in the bearing from Pelican, so I cross-referenced it with NAPA and got another identical bearing from them, tapped it into the engine (this time without freezing the bolt onto the stud, and thus not getting it stuck) and used the provided bolts to cinch the cover up. Everything went together perfectly, and according to plan.
After tightening down the cover, I removed the bolts and inserted the final, sealant coated bolts with the tamper proof heads into the factory IMSB cover and tightened them by hand until snug. I set my torque wrench to 8 ft-lbs and took turns tightening each bolt a turn or two and then.... DISASTER! One of the bolt heads snapped off, leaving the shaft embedded in the engine case.
The bolt had to have been defective -- I can't see any other way it could fail with that little torque being applied. Tomorrow I will try using a reverse drill bit to extract it, but am not hopeful. I am rueing the day that I thought it was a good idea to try to do the IMS -- this has been nothing but trouble. I am also really unhappy with the Pelican kit and instructions I've been using -- every single part of it has failed in some way and it looks like I will wind up not having used any of it, having reverted back to the factory stud and getting a new bearing from NAPA, even the damn bolt they included has broken. No idea how long it will take to sort this out, giving up on planned weekend trip with the girlfriend.
__________________
"Betty" -- 2000 Boxster S, Triple Black, loaded except PSM (sold to a good home)
"Veronica" -- 2008 Boxster S, Arctic Silver on Blue
"Maleficent" -- 2007 Cayman S, Red and Black, TPC Turbo 3.6L 460 RWHP, H&R RSS Coilover / TPC stage 2 suspension
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08-08-2012, 02:36 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: France
Posts: 32
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Bummer
Be carreful not to put some drilling chips into the engine case ( do not go through entirely).
use the old bolts to finish the job, after all, they have proved themselves OK.
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08-08-2012, 03:17 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern New jersey
Posts: 1,054
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Another possibility is that your torque wrench is not reading correctly.
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