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Old 07-25-2012, 10:46 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by BYprodriver View Post
Sounds like you should upgrade your mechanic & avoid downshifting on the freeway when your car is running hot. Also when your coolant level is low add distilled filtered water as it makes the engine cooler than antifreeze.
Like post said, I was getting off highway. Can't do 20mph in 5th

I added distilled water Tuesday morning

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Old 07-25-2012, 10:49 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by 986_inquiry View Post
Like post said, I was getting off highway. Can't do 20mph in 5th

I added distilled water Tuesday morning


You could cut the AC and reduce the parasitic drag, further in a situation like this many don't know that turning the heat on will cool the car a smidge by running the coolant through another small radiator.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:51 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by stephen wilson View Post
Yeah, I hate to say it, but you and your mechanic made some bad decisions. You shouldn't continue to drive a car that is running hot, especially a Boxster.

I learned the hard way years ago. I had a coolant hose leak on an Acura, and thought I could drive it 1 mile to get home. That 1 mile lead to a blown head gasket.
Agreed. If I survive I will be taking vehicle elsewhere for troubleshooting. Maybe he's ok for routine maintenance? Tires, brakes, filters? Funny thing is hes the owner, three bay shop, has employees but still wrenches on occasion, known him for almost 10 years, he was even in my wedding

Oh well.....
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:58 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by BYprodriver View Post
Sounds like you should upgrade your mechanic & avoid downshifting on the freeway when your car is running hot. Also when your coolant level is low add distilled filtered water as it makes the engine cooler than antifreeze.
Wow man, I'm really sorry to hear about that.
Yea man, I agree with GhostRider and everyone else on here. You need to ditch your mechanic. No car should be driven with the light on.

I've actually been getting overheating problems myself, but only when I have to start the car from a dead stop (i.e. stop sign or red light). I find that the temperature climbs a little every time I have to move the car from a dead stop. I had the mechanic look at it. No coolant leaks, water pump works fine, radiators and their fans work fine as well. We attributed it to the fact that it's 120 F in Arizona. It used to overheat a lot faster when I had the AC on, but since my AC broke, I haven't had that problem anymore. It doesn't seem to overheat when I'm on the freeway driving at a constant speed, only when it rolls from a dead stop.

I never let the engine get close to flashing. As soon as it crosses the 3/4th mark, I pull it over and let it cool. Everything else can wait.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:03 AM   #25
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Bad Water Pump? or idler pulley

There is a way with the Duramatic to engage the fans -- so you should be able to check that.

Hopefully the no start is that the pulley on the water pump or along the serpentine belt has seized
and its not letting the starter turn over the engine.

Also means that the Alternator is not charging.

should be obvious to eliminate by pulling the front engine panel which is behind the seats.
~10 x 10mm nuts/bolts I believe.

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Old 07-25-2012, 11:04 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by stephen wilson View Post
Yeah, I hate to say it, but you and your mechanic made some bad decisions. You shouldn't continue to drive a car that is running hot, especially a Boxster.

I learned the hard way years ago. I had a coolant hose leak on an Acura, and thought I could drive it 1 mile to get home. That 1 mile lead to a blown head gasket.
If it was losing coolant i would love to know where it went because it wasn't under the vehicle....?

Full coolant Tuesday morning. Drove.... about 50 miles total, never saw coolant leaking at any time, even after sitting in garage overnight
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:04 AM   #27
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Crono, Record heat has made driving the Fiat like your experience, at 120 lotsa cars going to overheat, especially running AC. What you describe can in part be attributed to the air flow into the radiators, sitting in traffic or at a stop, no "ram air" effect, which will eventually increase the temp.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:07 AM   #28
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If you want to do a quick check the head gasket look at the coolant if it looks oily, crack a beer and do some deep breathing.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:14 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seningen View Post
Bad Water Pump? or idler pulley

There is a way with the Duramatic to engage the fans -- so you should be able to check that.

Hopefully the no start is that the pulley on the water pump or along the serpentine belt has seized
and its not letting the starter turn over the engine.

Also means that the Alternator is not charging.

should be obvious to eliminate by pulling the front engine panel which is behind the seats.
~10 x 10mm nuts/bolts I believe.
I
mike
It was trying to turn over, didn't sound like anything was seized, but I didn't wanna push it too hard, car dying usually Very Bad Thing, best to tow and let mechanize repair.

Boxster towed little over 1 hour ago, should be in shop by now and I should know something in the next hour

Enterprise just called, they're on their way to my office to pick me up. Hope I don't need the weekly rate
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:20 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by 986_inquiry View Post
If it was losing coolant i would love to know where it went because it wasn't under the vehicle....?

Full coolant Tuesday morning. Drove.... about 50 miles total, never saw coolant leaking at any time, even after sitting in garage overnight
Three possible places coolant can go:
1. Floor of the garage- simple leak
2. Crankcase- Coolant/oil intermix
3. Combustion chamber (white smoke out the tailpipe)

My guess from your comments so far... cracked head due to overheat/failed waterpump. Sorry.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:25 AM   #31
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Hate to say it but I think topless made the long distance diagnosis, I think he's right. If makes you feel any better I lost an engine at 30K and I still don't know what happened to it. You'll get through this and in the big picture of stinky surprises it's way further down than any health scare.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:44 AM   #32
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After driving land rovers where head gaskets are about as permanent as water based finger paint, it pains me to hear of any mechanic advising a client to ignore a warning light and gauge on an aluminum block and aluminum head engine.

This whole thing makes me a bit sick to my stomach.

Tough tough learning situation.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:54 AM   #33
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Mechanic says blown engine

Says maybe hose came loose

Now what? Anyone need doors? Seats? Wheels?
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:56 AM   #34
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Turn the heat on high and crank the fan on full, if your not getting burning hot heat then no flow in the cooling system, shut down immediately. I've had the fan go out on a GTI in brutal heat, was able to drive it 30 miles to get home with the heat on full crank, sweated my azz off but saved the engine from over heating.
Sorry to hear about your situation.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:57 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by 986_inquiry View Post
Mechanic says blown engine

Says maybe hose came loose

Now what? Anyone need doors? Seats? Wheels?
Time for a 3.4L Vette killer?
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:59 AM   #36
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That mechanic should really take the fall for this, not you...
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:02 PM   #37
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I have to imagine Topless may be right, too, with #3. You mentioned smoke when you got out of the car. Was it coming out of the tailpipe or out from under the car?

If the head/block overheated, you can be pretty sure something cracked and introduced coolant and/or oil to places they aren't meant to go. I'm still wondering if the water pump impeller is what did this in, or maybe it along with a combination of other factors like faulty fans? Have you changed the water pump recently/ever?

I have to agree with others on finding another mechanic for your Boxster. I understand if you've known the guy a long time, but that unfortunately does not grant him expertise in M96 engines, or anything Porsche for that matter. Aside from the (non-flashing) CEL, I don't think there's really any light anyone should ignore, nor be told to ignore. There has to be a fairly local specialist for you to go to. Mine is nearly $40/hr less than the dealer and only 10-15 minutes farther away, and while he's still not cheap when you get right down to it, all he does is Porsche, for nearly 30 years now.

Any chance your employer has a corporate discount with Enterprise or another rental company?

Really sorry to hear about this, but I hope it's not as bad as we're all thinking. Keep us posted.

EDIT: Well I'm seeing there's been plenty of updating going on as I've been typing. Maybe I'll go back later and delete the irrelevant stuff.

Well crap, that sucks, though I'd be looking for 2nd opinions from someone who knows these cars. The maybes and the possiblies don't really work, in my opinion. What failed, and what broke as a result? That's what I'd want to know, definitively. See if there's anyone near you.

Why not see if you can find a 3.2 or 3.4 to drop in there? Great excuse at this point.

I'd hate to see it get parted out, but if that happens I'm sure we can help you accomplish that, and maybe you'll be able to nab yourself an early 986 S to keep right on going.
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Last edited by Overdrive; 07-25-2012 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:10 PM   #38
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Man, that just sucks. The mechanic really needs to own up to this. He really did you a disservice, friend or not.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:17 PM   #39
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I'm still absorbing what happened, I'll answer questions later

I will say my rental ford focus really sucks
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:24 PM   #40
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^^^^^^^as would any non-performance-oriented rental you jump into after being used to driving around in a Boxster.

I do hope the mechanic is going to make some sort of amends. The advice given was definitely wrong in general, and particularly with this type of car.

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