IMS/Clutch job this weekend!, couple questions

[truegearhead]

Originally Posted by Ghostrider 310

If you are not using specialized bits you need the hardest ones you can buy. Surprisingly, after tons of shopping, I found the craftsman bit set to be the best don't bother with depot or lowes. At least you have a system of keeping the drilling work square that's probably the biggest issue. In the end, don't be surprised if you end up having to use these:

++ TIME-SERT Metric Kits ++ thread repair kits and inserts repair stripped threads damaged threads repaired threads threaded inserts for metal thread inserts for metal aluminum inserts threaded inserts for aluminum

far better result than heliocoils, even though I expected one I never had an exhaust leak post repair. With the amount sticking out you have, maybe you could weld two nuts on there and go "nuts".

I tried welding a nut on and only snapped more of the bolt off. Can you buy time-serts long enough? I was planning on just stacking the helicoils to get the correct depth.

[Mark_T]

I would have gone straight for the drill. File the stub flat, make sure you center punch it as close to the center of the bolt as you can, and start with small bits, working your way up until you are almost at the size of the hole (like actually touching the threads) and then run a good tap through it using lots of good cutting oil and cleaning the chips frequently. I wouldn't try an easy-out because if it snaps off in the hole then you are really in trouble (been there!)

I now go for the drill first because I have found in the past that, after wasting hours with heat, welding nuts on the stub, vice grips, etc., I almost always end up going with drilling, and it always works. Use really good bits - seriously. Save the Jobmate crap for your woodworking projects.

[feelyx]

When I have to drill out an exhaust bolt/stud, I put in an stainless stud from an aircraft exhaust (you can pick up or order from any aircraft supplier). I've done many aircooled engines with them (no boxster yet) and are problem free when installed. The pics are 3/8" studs but there are different sizes. Make sure you get cad or silver plated nuts so the nuts don't rust(stainless nuts will gaul into the stud and is not recommended).

[Kenny Boxster]

[QUOTE] =feelyx;292974]When I have to drill out an exhaust bolt/stud, I put in an stainless stud from an aircraft exhaust (you can pick up or order from any aircraft supplier). I've done many aircooled engines with them (no boxster yet) and are problem free when installed. The pics are 3/8" studs but there are different sizes. Make sure you get cad or silver plated nuts so the nuts don't rust(stainless nuts will gaul into the stud and is not recommended).
[/QUOTE

If I'm hearing this right then what you are saying is that you take the Porsche OEM bolts and replace them with Aircraft-grade bolts?

[feelyx]

[QUOTE=Kenny Boxster;292998]

=feelyx;292974]When I have to drill out an exhaust bolt/stud, I put in an stainless stud from an aircraft exhaust (you can pick up or order from any aircraft supplier). I've done many aircooled engines with them (no boxster yet) and are problem free when installed. The pics are 3/8" studs but there are different sizes. Make sure you get cad or silver plated nuts so the nuts don't rust(stainless nuts will gaul into the stud and is not recommended).
[/QUOTE

If I'm hearing this right then what you are saying is that you take the Porsche OEM bolts and replace them with Aircraft-grade bolts?

I use studs, but yep, if I break one then it gets replaced so I never have to do it again. Like I said I never done a boxster... yet... but plenty of aluminium heads.

[Ghostrider 310]

[QUOTE=feelyx;293007]

Originally Posted by Kenny Boxster

I use studs, but yep, if I break one then it gets replaced so I never have to do it again. Like I said I never done a boxster... yet... but plenty of aluminium heads.

I made mine into studs for the repair too, stud into timecert but I didn't know about these or I would have tried them.