IMS/Clutch job this weekend!, couple questions
 

I'm tackling the Pelican IMS retrofit and clutch job on my Boxster this weekend, and have a couple questions.

1) I don't have a flywheel lock, is there any other option?

2) Do you guys recommend jacking up the front and back of the car?

3) I've read through countless write ups but does anyone have any words of wisdom?

I'll keep everyone posted on the progress!

I wonder why you choose the Pelican IMS upgrade vs the LN Engineering version?

I'll do mine in 5,000 miles when I hit 60K, or at the next clutch job, which ever comes first.

Just curious how you decided one way or the other on the 2 different IMS upgrades available.

While the flywheel lock is a relatively inexpensive and useful item, it is not critical to getting the job done; it just makes it quicker and a bit easier, particularly if it is a one-man job.

If you can get the entire car up in a level position, you would be better off. But it can still be done with just the back up.

Take your time, read and follow the LN directions (I am not a fan of using setscrews to hold the shaft).

If you chamfer the edge of the aligning hole on the flywheel, it goes on easier.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1337960386.jpg

Good luck! My hat is off to anyone who replaces the IMSB as DIY. :cheers:

Take some pic's and post as you make progress.

Truegearhead,

If you could post pictures of your clutch job and ims that would be amazing. I am wanting to replace the clutch on my car myself, but have found all the write-ups somewhat ambigious and hasty. Best of luck!

1) You can make a lock yourself. Go to the local hardware store and get a piece/bar of steel (needs to be 8" long or so) and drill two holes. One hole will be big enough to bolt to the motor, the other hole slightly larger than the flywheel/clutch alignment pins. See attached photo.
2) Consider having the car level, it will make it a little easier aligning the bearing when you install it.
3) Don't drink any beer while doing this job.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1337991320.jpg

[QUOTE=Jager;291609]1) You can make a lock yourself. Go to the local hardware store and get a piece/bar of steel (needs to be 8" long or so) and drill two holes. One hole will be big enough to bolt to the motor, the other hole slightly larger than the flywheel/clutch alignment pins. See attached photo.
2) Consider having the car level, it will make it a little easier aligning the bearing when you install it.
3) Don't drink any beer while doing this job.


What about German beer? :cheers:

Good thing you picked a long weekend - there are a lot of parts to take off and put back.

I suggest reading the Pelican Parts write up in 101 Projects before starting. It has some helpful photos. Then take pictures as you pull the gearbox out to note the direction of the components, and double check during re-assembly. There are plenty of nightmare stories where people put the clutch plate in the wrong direction or something and then no clutch after all that work.

Oh, make sure you have a 12 point triple square socket head before getting started for that one odd bolt on the bottom left side of the gearbox. I had one in my toolbox, but still had to machine my tool before using it due to the limited space behind the bolt.

Yea, that triple square bolt got me, I was not ready for that one. You will need something similar to what is pictured below (triple square bit and box end wrench). Also, most of the transmission (trans axle) to motor bolts are different, you will need to keep track of which bolt goes where. Label or number them as you remove them.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1338000789.jpg

Only after the bearing assembly is mounted correctly in the end of the Intermediate Shaft... Then it's time for a cold one!!

I put mine up on four jack stands. Once you get the rear bumper and muffler off there was plenty of room. If you have an air ratchet that will make getting the axel bolts off much easier.
Chris

If the 02 3.2 have a clutch cable can it be adjusted?

Can you just pin the crankshaft at TDC to hold the flywheel or will the pin shear when you apply torque to the flywheel bolts.?

No cable no adjusment

She's been sitting here for two weeks now! THe IMS replacement is complete, drive axles are rebuilt with new boots, and the transmission is installed. Now I'm stuck on the two broken exhaust manifold bolts. I've tried everything under the sun PB blaster, freezeoff,welding a nut to them, etc. I've finally decided to go ahead and drill them out. The member "insite"'s post on his 3.4L swap as well as some as PMs has been a huge help. I'm following his lead and using a Quickcenter with slow increments in bit size. I've always rebuilt a drill press to drill up which hopefully will help me a bit


http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...h/ef3c7894.jpg

http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...urgh/drill.jpg

Damn, I wish I had that kind of room in my garage... ;)

Did you try heat?

Anybody used one of those inductive heat guns yet? I'd like to know how they work...

If you are not using specialized bits you need the hardest ones you can buy. Surprisingly, after tons of shopping, I found the craftsman bit set to be the best don't bother with depot or lowes. At least you have a system of keeping the drilling work square that's probably the biggest issue. In the end, don't be surprised if you end up having to use these:

++ TIME-SERT Metric Kits ++ thread repair kits and inserts repair stripped threads damaged threads repaired threads threaded inserts for metal thread inserts for metal aluminum inserts threaded inserts for aluminum

far better result than heliocoils, even though I expected one I never had an exhaust leak post repair. With the amount sticking out you have, maybe you could weld two nuts on there and go "nuts".