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Old 03-30-2012, 05:59 AM   #1
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Jumping E-brake switch?

I've searched and found this question asked before but I haven't found an answer yet. My convertible top stopped working last night(The e-brake switch stopped responding). The real problem is that I'm going out to some wineries this weekend and my top wont work! (first world problems right?). Anyways I've ordered the replacement part but I need to jump the switch somehow to get through the weekend. Any ideas? I'd really rather not tear the whole console out.

Cheers,
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:55 AM   #2
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no need.
just remove the side cover of the console, and you will have access to the switch.
not sure if you will need to disconnect one of the wires, or connect one to the other.
let me check if i can get some pics for you.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:26 AM   #3
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here is a link from another discussion:
e-brake swith replacement (03) - Pelican Parts Technical BBS
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meir View Post
no need.
just remove the side cover of the console, and you will have access to the switch.
not sure if you will need to disconnect one of the wires, or connect one to the other.
let me check if i can get some pics for you.
Are you sure? Everything I've read says you need to completely remove it. Maybe if you just need to get to the wires this approach will work. Anybody have any more insight?
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:11 PM   #5
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If I were you I'd go with a Smart Top module. With it installed, the E-brake is taken out of the loop. You will also have the ability to drop and raise the top up to 25 mph with the a 1 second push of the switch (no more holding it down, unless you're stopped). Really adds to the cool factor when you drop it on the move.

BTW, it's a 30 second fix!!

Check out this link; http://www.mods4cars.com/sms/shop/index.php?p=b3JnYT1zbWFydHRvcCZncm91cD0yJmxhbmc9Mi ZjdXJyPTI=&action=products&cat=11&mode=view&id=23
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Last edited by Jaxonalden; 03-30-2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:03 PM   #6
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As you can see from the pictures I posted in the other thread, I had the cosule removed ( was installing a short shifter ) the other guy I was helping stated it can be done by removing the cover only. Since you are going to replace the switch, there is no problem removing it by breaking the clips that hold it in place.
Give it a try. This way or the other, removing the consule is a 10 minutes job. You can find the exact instructions here:
Pelican Technical Article: Installing a Boxster Short Shift Kit (SSK) and Replacing Boxster Shift Bushings - 986 / 987
Look at figure 3. The only tricky part is removing the screw hidden under the coin holder inside the armrest compartment.
Good luck.
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:50 PM   #7
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Internal ground in relay

I did an internal ground in the top relay, so the relay "thinks" the ebrake is pulled. Then I bent over pin 15 so the relay gets no signal from ebrake. That, and the bent over pin 18 and I can put up the roof while driving at low speeds. I'd love a Smarttop, but can't justify the expen$e.

Last edited by BoxsterSteve; 04-02-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:51 PM   #8
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I agree with BoxsterSteve, the expense is staggering. Did like the quick fix though.
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:13 PM   #9
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Hi Boxster Steve,
Can you elaborate on how you did the internal ground? I would like to try this myself.
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:28 PM   #10
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Brock,

Unfortunately you may be SOL for this mod, as your car is a 1999, (at least that's what shows on your sig).

It does work on Roof Relay 986.618.199.00 for 2000-2004 986.

First off, many thanks to guvs here on this forum and to dominouk on BoXa.net for sharing this information with me.

This mod is too simple NOT to do... took less than 20 minutes start to end of testing. All I used was about 4" of 20 ga. wire, electronics solder and a soldering gun. I had this stuff at home already, so this was really a zero-buck operation.

Pull the relay, then use 2 jeweler's screwdrivers to spread the cover so the guts (circuit board & attached pins) slide out. Just barely insert the drivers and gently lever out the guts. Notice how the standing PC board fits into two grooves on the cover? It will only fit back on one way. Our jumper wire goes on the back side of the board, it fits between the board and the cover. Tight fit? Yes, so the solder job has to lay flat on the board so the cover will slide back over.

Cut a 4" or so length of wire. Strip only about 3/16" of insulation off the ends, then twist and tin the ends of the wire. Tinning is simply applying a small amount of solder to the wire only. This step makes the attaching to the board easier, as you aren't juggling as many things in your hands.

Now solder your tinned wire to the points marked in red:


Carefully flatten the wire to the board as best as you can, and slide the cover back on. Now carefully bend over pin 15. It must be bent over or it will still look for a signal from the ebrake switch. The soldering job fools the relay into believing the ebrake switch is closed, and the bent pin 15 takes the ebrake switch out of the circuit.

There wasn't enough room to bend it inwards, without it touching the pin beside it, so I bent mine outwards. It extends past the edge of the cover, but there is no interference with any pins from the other relays nearby.

Now bend over pin 18 so the relay gets no speed signal, if you haven't already done so.

Reinstall, and marvel at how your roof will now operate without the ebrake pulled up.

Obviously, we've now disabled all of Porsche's safety devices, so you can now put your roof up at 90 mph and wreck it; or use it cautiously at slow speeds only for added convenience.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:00 AM   #11
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Thans for the post & pics. Maybe I'll try it.
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