ABS warning light, brake wear light.

[chainreaction31]

Ok, I just got a replacement engine installed after a bearing failure in my 2001 S and the problem I'm having now is this.

The ABS and brake wear lights are on and the brakes are incredibly unresponsive. The ABS does not work at all, I know because after a few minutes some guy decided he liked my lane better than his... hit the brakes, lots of smoke from the tires and some sliding later, you get the picture. I don't think the brakes are worn either, because I had them redone about a month before my car died. Does anyone know what the issue might be? I'm hoping it's just something that wasn't hooked up right because the car had to sit for almost 8 months and obviously lots of things were disconnected when the car was fixed. Another thing, is it possible that something was reset because it sat for so long with zero battery power? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[JFP in PA]

The best approach is to get the system scanned either with a PIWIS or Durametric system to see what the codes are. There are several reasons why the ABS system may have gone "off line", but randomly replacing components in this system can be very expensive. Get the codes............

[chainreaction31]

Yeah, unfortunately replacing stuff would have to wait. i doubt anything is actually broken since it was absolutely flawless leading up to the incident with the engine.

[MaxD]

Buy the Durametric code reader. Read the codes. clear the codes, see if they come back.

I bet the the car was powered up without everything hooked up correctly, hence the ABS fault.

[chainreaction31]

But would that explain the extreme pedal travel?

Plus, I don't know anything about the code readers and the engine replacement kind of put a strain on my funds so I can't really buy that and then get the car fixed again.

[JFP in PA]

You didn't mention the pedal travel; more than likely, whomever did your engine swap opened up the hydraulic system and did not bleed it. Flush the brakes and clutch hydraulics, not expensive and is also a DIY project, and your problems may simply go away...........

[chainreaction31]

I was there when we bled the brakes unfortunately. There was no air in the lines. I can't think of what else might be causing that to happen. Some kind of fault with the hydraulics themselves? The brakes worked fine before. It is possible the hydraulic pump was damaged when the engine went?

[JFP in PA]

I can; if they opened up the hydraulic system and allowed enough air to get into it while swapping engines, there is now air trapped in the ABS/PSM control network, which requires a very specific bleeding method to get rid of it that uses the PIWIS or Durametric systems to activate the hydraulic pump and controls valves during the bleeding process. There is no other way to get the air out of this system.

If they did not do this when they bled the brakes, there is air trapped in the control network, and the system needs the correct re-bleed.......... I'd be willing to bet the MIL codes are for a system malfunction due to this.

[MaxD]

Have you checked that the rear wheel speed sensors and the brake wear sensor are hooked up?

Also did the car have a firm pedal when you took delivery or did it have the long travel you now note. Even with air in the ABS circuit you should be able to get a firm pedal since the valves close off that part of the system when ABS is not activated.

There is a non PIWIS or Durametric way to bleed the ABS pump but the system needs to be functional. Bleed, go out and activate ABS, repeat a few times. Not the fastest way but it works.

[chainreaction31]

The brakes we're absolutely perfect before, something has to be connected improperly or not at all. Also the car is a 2001, without PSM or traction control. The brake wear sensors probably aren't hooked up right, but that's easy to remedy. It's the not being able to stop that worries me. I'll have it all checked out again once the car is back in my hands.