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Old 11-23-2011, 07:55 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 97 Boxster View Post
Thanks DS. I will change the battery again. The light on the FOB lights up but only with the bottom button. I imagine I cant just buy the insides either. These keys are so much I think I am in the wrong business. LOL
How did the battery change or re-gutting the fob work? Additionally, I have no horn honk upon locking. I would certainly deactivate it if it did as I find horns honking unnecessary and annoying. Mine only honks if a window is open too much to allow the IR to set.


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Old 11-24-2011, 04:20 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by MileHighBoxster View Post
How did the battery change or re-gutting the fob work? Additionally, I have no horn honk upon locking. I would certainly deactivate it if it did as I find horns honking unnecessary and annoying. Mine only honks if a window is open too much to allow the IR to set.
MHB

I did change the battery as described and no difference. It appears as if I am going to have to bite the bullet. Merry Christmas to me I guess.

Happy Holidays to all.
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MileHighBoxster View Post
How did the battery change or re-gutting the fob work? Additionally, I have no horn honk upon locking. I would certainly deactivate it if it did as I find horns honking unnecessary and annoying. Mine only honks if a window is open too much to allow the IR to set.
Could be that yours came from the factory, or previous owner, programmed that way. I figure if they can change the amount of time your car takes before it locks itself back up after you press the button, they should be able to disable the horn response, too. Do your lights still flash twice when you lock and once when you unlock?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 Boxster View Post
I did change the battery as described and no difference. It appears as if I am going to have to bite the bullet. Merry Christmas to me I guess.

Happy Holidays to all.
If you have a manual to check, 97 Box, I would do so. I'm pretty sure it's not as simple as switching the batteries in the remote and getting it working right off the bat. I believe there's a programming process involved since the fob lost power. I have to check my manual and see what the deal is, because I swear I remember reading something about it where you could do it yourself. I'll get back on here and let you know. If there is something, perhaps you can give that one last shot before going to the dealer.

For that matter, if you do go the dealer, have them try to reprogram your key before you go buying any replacement parts from them. You're just paying for labor at that point, and if it works it will cost considerably less than buying parts, getting the key cut, and then having that programmed. And you can live off of that key til you can set a few bucks aside here and there to get yourself a fresh, spanking new key.

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