Did 97 986 come with keyless entry???
 

I am buying an extra key and need to know if I should buy the remote or just the cheaper key head.

Not sure what you mean by "keyless entry".
My '97 has a key with 2 buttons which are used to unlock the driver side door and the trunk.

I have a 97 as well and my 2 button remote has never worked. I need a new one and so I will be checking into this thread to see what you do and is recommended. That 2 button remote is not the only expense... the big part is the programming/cutting of the key. $$$$$:mad:

I have a 97, and it came with a remote key (the large-size head key) as the only key to the vehicle. It has two buttons, one to lock/unlock the door (larger button closer to the key shank) and the other to open the rear trunk (smaller button). They are horribly expensive, as the majority of what you're paying for is the key head itself, as well as the cutting of the key shank, and the programming for the key (45mins-1hr of labor in my experience).

Porsche also made a smaller key head that was not a remote, and apparently had a light on it. I went to Porsche expecting one of these keys, as that's what I saw in the manual (granted the manual that came with my car is for a '99 or '00 car, I think). I'm not sure that they make this particular part anymore, or perhaps didn't make it for the pre-2000 cars, as the key head I got was extremely small and had no light on it. It still required programmig to function with the car, and the early cars did not have the ability to make a "valet key" as the later models did. So it's simply a spare key for me that unlocks the door and works the ignition to start the car just like the regular key, which was all I was looking for, though a valet key that still disables the two trunk handles and doesn't unlock the glovebox would have also been nice.

What you need to check is whether or not your particular car came with keyless entry. There were early cars that did not come with it. It may be indicated by the options code sticker under your front trunk lid. Match these codes up with the list online to see what you've got for your car's options. If you don't have keyless entry, save your money and just get a regular spare key. If you do have keyless entry, I recommend biting the bullet and getting a remote key made if you want one, as it sounds like you don't have one yet.

That smaller key head is significantly less costly, but still stupidly expensive, unfortunately. If I remember right the key head and blank key shank cost me about $180 in parts for a 97, and slightly less, about $150, for a 99 (got one for my sister's car as well), so it would seem there are proprietary part numbers for the key for a 97 versus later years (get used to this), and the cutting/programming/labor was almost another $100. I don't know if they did both cars at once or one at a time, so it could be that that labor might be half that time for one car, but either way, it's pricey to get a new key. I asked about the remote key cost just for ha-has, and I believe they said it was something like $300-350, and that was just for the parts, so it's significantly higher overall.

"stupidly expensive"

Overdrive, that's the perfect way to describe the price of keys for our cars. Porsche obviously thinks we downgraded from a Ferrari or Lamborghini and the price seems reasonable.

It could be worse: We had a customer bring their college son's Nissan Versa in because they needed a new key (former girlfreind thew one away). Key cost $137.68 from a Nissan dealer, programing was another $149.00; and it is for a crappy little econobox......... Seems nearly all "smart keys" are "stupidly expensive", not just those for a Ferrari.

Stopped by the dealer today and they need the VIN to tell me if the car has remote entry. On the bright side my auto insurance covers key replacement.

I've never investigated what my BMW's remote fob that allows me to touch the door and push a button to start the car would cost to replace. I'm betting it's in the $300 range. Ugh!

I have a '99 base. I bought it used. It came with 2 regular keys. Was the keyess entry an option?

I made the mistake of buying just the cheaper key head, and it has the side effect of setting off the alarm if you unlock the door manually, and don't get the key in the ignition in 10 seconds. It's fairly annoying, but it is just my spare -- I'd bite the bullet and get the remote head. I believe our friends at Pelican sell them.

How about getting the key blank cut? I have read that it can be hard to find somebody to cut a key for the Porsche if they are not a dealer.

I need to do this ASAP and I was thinking of purchasing the newer model 2 button remote. Wouldn't that work? Thanks.

I did have to search around to get my key cut. Even 2 of the dealers in Chicago would have had to send it out. I did finally find a dealer to do it. I have heard that an Audi dealer will sometimes do it, since they cut basically the same blade keys...

I assume the 2 button remote would be fine, if your car doesn't have keyless entry it wouldn't matter, as long as the electronic component of the key is coded to work with your car. I believe there are some settings on board to 'pair' the key to the car, so I think you pretty much have to go to someone who can do the programming, regardless. You can't just get it cut, and expect it to work.

A few useful links:
Pelican Technical Article: Replacing a**** Porsche Key Head
Everything you wanted to know about Boxster Keys:

Did you have this key programmed? If not that could be why it's causing that issue. I imagine if you had it programmed it would just act like your regular key and not whack out your alarm. It might be worthwhile to have the programming done if you haven't.

And 97 Boxster, I'm not sure that the newer remotes will work with our cars. Hopefully someone else can weigh in on that, but I imagine it's probably not programable to work with the older cars, and certainly wouldn't pop your front trunk since I'm pretty sure those are strictly manual releases on our older cars. I also wouldn't be surprised if the newer key head is even MORE expensive...for that matter I believe they may even have a slightly different shape key blank (thank you, better word to use thank shank, lol).

And Brockmeister, yes, keyless entry was an option, particularly on the earlier cars. I'm sure someone out there actually managed to buy a base 97 with 16 inch wheels, no door speakers, no keyless entry, and maybe even no air conditioning, for close to the $40,000 base price the cars had back then.

Just set up my appt with the dealer to get a new key head and have it programmed. OUCH!!:eek:

Yeah, I had it programmed, I actually read in the owners manual that this is the designed behavior. I have no idea why, but if you unlock the car with the key, and don't put it in the ignition in 10 seconds, it alarms. Very odd, I'm planning on checking with the dealer if they can disable that behavior.

I feel your pain, sir (97_Boxster). Just make sure you don't lose that key so you only have to do it once. Actually, did you ever have them try to program the one that you have already? Take some new batteries with you, throw them in there when you get there, and have them try to program your current key. At least then you're only paying for the labor of them doing that (if it works) and not having to get a whole new key if you really don't need one. This is one of those times where I can't see myself making an extra key like I would for my other cars. It would have to be absolutely necessary because of the sheer high cost.

Hey John, what did you end up deciding to do for your key since you raised the question that started this thread?

[QUOTE=Overdrive;264695]I feel your pain, sir (97_Boxster). Just make sure you don't lose that key so you only have to do it once. Actually, did you ever have them try to program the one that you have already? Take some new batteries with you, throw them in there when you get there, and have them try to program your current key. At least then you're only paying for the labor of them doing that (if it works) and not having to get a whole new key if you really don't need one. This is one of those times where I can't see myself making an extra key like I would for my other cars. It would have to be absolutely necessary because of the sheer high cost.


OD

I am actually thinking of now just purchasing the new button cover from Suncoast since one of my buttons is cracked. The problem is the cover (part with the buttons) has broken tabs so it doesnt stay on the key so I have it "fabbed" to work for now. I guess the $14 part and possibly some programming would do the trick huh?

How do I find out if my car had keyless entry anyways? It has never worked for me but maybe I dont even have it. What code do I look for and where?

Thanks All.

It could be your battery. Change that first. If that doesn't do it, then all you need is new guts to go into your key fob. You don't need a new key cut unless you lose your key. You'll need, if the battery doesn't do it, new insides put into the fob and then have it programmed.

Thanks DS. I will change the battery again. The light on the FOB lights up but only with the bottom button. I imagine I cant just buy the insides either. These keys are so much I think I am in the wrong business. LOL

Here's a fairly complete list:

4.0 Boxster Configuration - Porsche Boxster (986) FAQ

I believe M535 might be it: "Remote Controlled Alarm System". From the site's details of this code:

"-A remote entry device. In the base of two of the ignition keys for the Boxster are two buttons that you can push. One button unlocks the driver's and passenger's doors. The other opens the trunk.
-The alarm will sound if the driver's and passenger's doors are opened, front and rear trunk are opened, oddments compartment is opened, the flap that lifts to store the cabriolet top is lifted, radio is removed, ignition is activated, key with invalid transponder code is used in the ignition lock, horn is disassembled, passenger compartment sensor is disassembled, voltage supply to the control module is interrupted.
-Interior infra-red sensors that are active when the hard or cabriolet top is closed. Near the reading lamp and rear view mirror are two infra-red sensors that detect whether someone has reached into the passenger compartment when the car is locked. For example, if the cabriolet top was cut and someone reached in, the alarm would sound. When the cabriolet top is open, these sensors are disabled. However, you can get a clip that attaches to the handle between the two sensors that reactivates it even with the top down. The part number is 986.504.986.00 and costs less than $2.00. You can also simply push on the microswitch where the hook for the cabriolet top connects for a few seconds as you activate the alarm.
-The alarm sounds by honking the car's horn for two minutes.
-There is no annoying beep as the alarm is activated and deactivated. Feedback is shown by blinking the front and rear parking lights twice to show the alarm is armed, once to show it is disarmed. The door lock switch and another red LED in the center of the dash also blinks. (Note from O/D: This is not true. Along with the above described activity, the horn should give a very short, single beep when the car has been locked, unless you double tap the lock button, which will prevent the motion sensor from activating, accompanied by a long flash of the signal lights and no horn beep.)
-If the car is not secure when the alarm is activated, a single short honk of the horn will notify you. The most frequent cause of this honk is because the interior oddments compartment is not fully closed. (Note from O/D: Again, this is not quite correct. The horn will sound differently from when it normally locks to let you know that it cannot properly lock, and it will do this as soon as you press the button.)
-If you unlock the car or trunk and do not open the driver's or passenger's doors within two minutes, the horn will give a single short honk, and the car will relock. If some random stray RFI signal managed to unlock the car, it would only be unsecure for two minutes.
-If you do not order the alarm, there is no way to protect the contents of your front and rear trunks when the cabriolet top is down. Anyone can reach in and open the car from the inside by pressing the unlock switch on the center console, then open the door and pull the trunk release levers. If you have the alarm, this will sound the alarm and the trunks remain locked.
-If the car is not opened for about three days (Note from O/D: 5 days), the remote entry on the key will no longer work. You will need to use the key in the door lock to unlock the car.
-All cars (with and without the M535) have a device that prevents the car from being started without a microchip in the car key being present when the ignition is turned.
-The M535 option does not include motion or proximity detectors. You will need aftermarket equipment for that."


See if that code (might be lacking the M) is on a label on the inside of your front trunk lid. It's usually a white label that is toward the top center of the lid (as you look at it lifted, standing in front of the car), and will have a bunch of 3 digit or 3 character alphanumeric codes on it.

I believe this next one is the most complete list one can find at the moment. It calls the M535 code "Anti Theft Lock 315MHz".

986online.com- Boxster Option Codes -Porsche Boxster Parts And Accessories

So while you're at it, might as well check all your codes and ensure that you do indeed have everything that's on the label.