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Old 01-05-2011, 05:37 AM   #1
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Oil Additives - Jake?

i recently completed a 3.4L conversion. everything is running great, but on occasion, i'm hearing a single sticky lifter at idle. the motor sat for eight years prior to being installed in my car, so i figure a little bit of wear & oil circulation would start to clean everything out.

i'm at about 700 miles now, & it still happens. i'm wondering if there's a remedy that could help clean out any gunk. should i just rely on time & normal oil detergents? years ago, i remember various solvent oil additives one could use in these types of situations (i.e. sea foam, etc). these solvents could be run in the crankcase for a little while & really worked pretty well. i am, for obvious reasons, hesitant to go this route w/ a modern porsche motor.....

right now i'm running castrol syntec 10w-30 with an OEM filter. i plan on an oil / filter chantge w/ another oil analysis 300 miles from now. FYI, the analysis of the oil that sat in the motor for eight years was excellent.

anyone have thoughts on this situation?
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:04 AM   #2
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I recently attended a lubrication seminar...

It included dialogue from an API Certified Lubrication Specialist. He was posed with this same question concerning additives.

He referenced a question and answer that was found on his CLS test administered by the API. The question was "When is it suitable to use an aftermarket oil additive?".The correct answer to the question: NEVER

I concur, additives disrupt the critical balance that must be maintained between the detergency and anti-wear packages of the oil. This imbalance isn't a positive occurrence.

I prefer a proper oil, designed for the engine I am working with. I learned over time that oil really didn't exist for the M96 completely, so I teamed up with Joe Gibbs racing and we simply had it formulated. I continue to develop it now, but we are using it in all our engines with excellent success.

There are some others that work well enough, just do your homework... oh, never flush the lubrication system of an M96 engine, its the fastest way to send all the gunk in the engine to the lifters and variocam assemblies and that gets expensive quick.

BTW- If that engine sat for 8 years, expect a broken valve spring... several valve springs sat partially or fully compressed within that engine for 8 years and thats not healthy..
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:22 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
BTW- If that engine sat for 8 years, expect a broken valve spring... several valve springs sat partially or fully compressed within that engine for 8 years and thats not healthy..
Jake out of curiosity, can you replace a valve spring without removing the head, by using compressed air to keep the valves closed?

On the V6 Alfa engines there is a tool that you install on the plug thread and locks the valve in the closed position, allowing you to use an external spring compressor (to replace springs or valve seals)

Thanks, Gilles
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
right now i'm running castrol syntec 10w-30...
well i'd certainly start with that being a thing to change!
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:14 AM   #5
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jake - good puts. i kind of figured that tribological knowledge had evolved past any additives that might interfere w/ viscosity curves.

as for the valve springs? i hadn't really thought of that! i guess maybe next year's project will be a valve job. we shall see.....




Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycarreon
well i'd certainly start with that being a thing to change!
uhhhhh.....why? syntec is good stuff.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
uhhhhh.....why? syntec is good stuff.

the Syntec is fine, the 10W-30 weight is a bit thin..........
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:42 AM   #7
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the Syntec is fine, the 10W-30 weight is a bit thin..........
oh, i agree. i loaded it w/ the 10w-30 as a sort of break-in weight for the first 1000 miles i'm driving it post-install. it's been really cold out & the car isn't being driven very hard (continuously) yet.

when i replace the oil in 300mi, it will get 10w-40
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:32 AM   #8
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curious

Just curious, why are you braking in a used engine? How many miles where on it before you got it?
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:44 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by goldsc_78258
Just curious, why are you braking in a used engine? How many miles where on it before you got it?

about 38k on the motor before i got it. not really 'breaking it in' per-se, as the wear surfaces were all broken in prior to receiving the motor. however, since it sat for so long, fuel & other contaminents will have entered the crankcase. also, i'd cleaned the motor, replaced a bunch of seals, etc.....

really, it's just an accelerated oil change interval with a new oil analysis done to make sure everything's a-okay.
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:32 AM   #10
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You did carry out the IMSR before you installed this engine, didn't you?

33-35K has been the magic number for 996 IMS bearing failures as of late..

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Old 01-06-2011, 05:40 AM   #11
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yes sir! new LN bearing, new LN oil pump drive, lots of new o-rings & seals.....

she'll also be getting an LN accusump kit before she goes back to the track.



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Old 01-07-2011, 08:11 PM   #12
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A little off topic...

insite

I've been lurking around in your project posts for awhile. I like what you did and I'm a little jealous....all that power. It looks like you've really spent a lot of time planning and it looks like you've made some great decisions.

Very cool and thanks for the great posts. I'm thinking about a similiar conversion in my car and I really appreciate you paving the way publicly!
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:25 AM   #13
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Glad it's been helpful!
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