Axle question

[Matt Fredrikson]

Got a nasty hollow clunk from the back of the car when turning slow to the right. Did all 4 cv boots in January so I'm sure it's time to swap out axles. Problem is I'm 400 km from home and have to get there to do any work on the car. My question is can I just crawl under the car and twist the shaft to check the amount of play in the axle? If I take it easy and avoid putting to much torque on the axle I should make it home I would think, no? Also, should I change both at the same time or just the one making noise? Finally motor mount done in Jan as well. Thanks guys.

[Matt Fredrikson]

So after a couple checks and a test drive I'm leaning towards a blow shock. Basically did donuts in forward and reverse slowly and at a bit of speed and got nothing. Crawled under the car and the passenger side is tight while the drivers side only had a tiny click when I tried to rotate them. Smooth moving in and out, and I purposly hut a railroad in 3rd an got a hollow cluck like hitting an empty milk jug. No feedback as if an axle was popping. Only time I hear it now is when I load up the suspension over a bump. Smooth driving on the highway, last week I cranked a pothole on the highway and I have a feeling that might be what did her in. Will have to do more testing when I get home but I it's a blow shock it's a great way to sneak a row m030 kit past the gf lol. Let me know what you guys think, oh also if I push and pull up and down on the bumperettes I can hear it clunking a bit too soooo.

[landrovered]

When the forces of the universe conspire to give you a reason for coil overs you should take it!

[Matt Fredrikson]

Possibly lol! Might be rear control arms did some reading seems that could be it, took a hard corner and felt it clunk hard just a min ago feels like something going left right even more than up down. Well see gonna crawl under it in the next couple days and start cranking things.

[BYprodriver]

If it is a blown shock it should bounce up & down several times before settling/& or leak oil. If you replaced the grease in CV joints you should know their condition & they only wear when low on grease.

[Matt Fredrikson]

Thanks! I will check the shocks but I have a sneaking suspicion it's drop links my dads olf firebird torn up a sway bar bushing and made a very similar sound plus when it makes this clunk the back end gets a but out of shape.

[Bladecutter]

When the rear shocks are blown, you will head a weird shudder/thumping noise from the back end of the car when making a hard turn under heavy throttle when turning in the direction of the side of the car that the shock is blown on.

That's the sound of the tire bouncing around as it fights with traction.

BC.

[Matt Fredrikson]

Excellent that's exactly what I got I'm gonna crawl under it this week and have a closer look!

[Matt Fredrikson]

So my shocks are clean and dry, haven't had a chance to get it up in the air will do that tommorrow. What should I look at? That other thread about the track arm replacement has me thinking maybe I need to look there? Thoughts?

[Matt Fredrikson]

did more research on the lower track arm bushing failure, sounds like that is exactly what's going on from everything I've read. Going out to my shop tommorrow to jack it up and get in there and confirm. My question on this is, even if one side is in need of replacement should I do them both? Wheel alingment right away?

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by Matt Fredrikson

did more research on the lower track arm bushing failure, sounds like that is exactly what's going on from everything I've read. Going out to my shop tommorrow to jack it up and get in there and confirm. My question on this is, even if one side is in need of replacement should I do them both? Wheel alingment right away?

I would not replace other side unless it has unacceptable wear but alignment should be checked unless you are willing to risk uneven Tire wear, depending on how much tread remains on the tires.

[amondc]

If one side is worn then the other is not far behind. They both have the same miles etc. Plus you are going to have to do the alignment anyways so you might as well just replace both of them at the same time.

Just my $.02 worth.

[Matt Fredrikson]

So I got under there today and both track arm bushings on the controll arm look like my old motor mount. I deffinatly want to get on this asap but just as I was about to order new urethane ones from Powerflexusa I found that they are on back order. Pelican has them for $232 each and I'm about to call the dealer and hear what they have to say. Any other suggestions on a urethane bushing I could just press in?

[gschotland]

You can get remanufactured ones with polyurethane bushings from Vertex:

http://www.****************************************.com/ShowItem/140883%20Porsche%20Rebuilt%20Lower%20Control%20Arm .aspx

I've got 6k miles on a pair of their rear trailing arms w/poly bushings. So far so good. Cured the terrible rattles in the rear.

Now I've got rattles up front. First I'm going to replace the swaybar drop links, a notorious source of rattles, with these:

http://www.tarett.com/items/boxster~cayman-products/996-986-front-drop-link-set-996fdlnk-detail.htm

If that doesn't do it I'll likely be getting some remanufactured control arms myself.

Let us know how you make out.

[Matt Fredrikson]

ya monday I'm ordering new urethane bushings but I'm going to do the control arm to track arm, the control arm to body and the track arm to body. Decided to do all 6 and not worry that something isn't right. I plan on doing the drop links with the tarret ones when I do the sway bars.

[boxster7614]

My track arm was making alot of noise in the front. I was thinking of replacing it but thought I would try a little grease first. They are sealed so no way to grease them. But I went to local parts store and found a needle that goes on my grease gun and injected some grease through the boots they have been silent now for the last 2 yeas. Might wana try it only took about 10 mins didn't even take the wheel off.