01-27-2008, 10:39 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,417
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Dude forget about new sway bars.....wheels my man,you need new wheels.
__________________
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house
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01-28-2008, 09:27 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Ha yeah i do, ill wait awhile though cause getting wheels isnt just "getting wheels" i have to also buy the rubber for them and thats alot of money to spend on something that not everyone will notice so im goign to wait till i see something timeless as far as the style of wheels.
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01-28-2008, 09:35 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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As for my excessive Toe issue, im going to try to trim off some material from the ecentric washers to give me less + toe and more negative... I dont like the way the rear end reacts to bumps in the road as a result of the excessive + toe. The rear end will have a shimmy or wiggle when one wheel hits a bump...
for instance, the drivers side rear wheel hits a bump, the rear will sway to the left what feels to be about a half inch, then as the driver side wheel comes back to flat level road, the the rear-end will sway back about half an inch or less. and vis-versa if the Passenger rear wheel hits a bump.
So what ill do is trim some material off of the shortest end of the ecentric washers to get me closer to acceptible toe range.
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01-28-2008, 09:43 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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However i can just shorten the length of my rear Track-arms and that would pull the away the + toe i have but damn, its a Bit** breaking loose those lock nuts on the Track-arm.
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01-30-2008, 10:48 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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Ok well i re-aligned my 986 yesterday, it came out good, I ended up shortening the length of the Upper Control Arm (Track Arms) to pull the Hub further away from the Toe-arm, thus getting rid of that excessive positive toe and the rear-end shimmy i would get while driving over bumps...
I had trouble getting the front toe to match cause any adjustment i would make to the left side would change the right side alittle so i left it alone after 3 good tries.
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01-30-2008, 11:13 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,820
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CJ -
for sways, if you're car is primarily a street car, get the M030 S front and M030 base rear. it's almost zero sacrifice on comfort and a HECK of a difference from a drivability standpoint.
for a street car, the GT3 bar is a bit stiff, as are the H&R. the Eibachs are nearly identical to the M030, but cost twice as much. the factory stuff yields the most bang for the buck.
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01-30-2008, 11:14 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Where the Sewer Meets the Sea, CA. USA
Posts: 2,695
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I dont mind the extra stiffness just as long as it doesnt cause the front end to to bounce all over the place... Will the GT3RS do that?
EDIT: I take that first sentence back.... I want to feel like im in a GT Cup car... even in the streets, I know while the comfort levels will drop with that GT3RS sway bar but to me it'll pale in compairison to how great it feels to take a hard corner with relatively little body roll.
Last edited by CJ_Boxster; 01-30-2008 at 11:27 AM.
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