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Old 06-18-2006, 09:21 AM   #1
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About to buy a boxster! Help!

Hey guys, Ive been reading up on everything I can on these boards before I start looking for my boxster. I have searched and read all the FAQ's and etc but I still have some questions. You guessed it, reliability. Please bare with me, I know youre probably sick of hearing it. I have just been getting mixed reviews everywhere and im not sure what to think. The rms and etc, is that specific to certain years or do all years have this problem? I am definitely looking into a 2000 or newer, is there any year I should avoid aside from the pre 2000's? Also, what are the average maintenence costs? I hear that they are high but it doesnt need an oil change nearly as often as most other cars so I assume it kin of evens out? I want to purchase one with the mileage range of 20k-30k miles. If any of you are in the NJ area I would pay you to help me insepct the vehicle haha. I just dont want to get stuck with a horror story. Thanks in advanced guys. I cant wait to join this community.

Jason


Last edited by PureZ; 06-18-2006 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 07-17-2006, 10:31 AM   #2
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I'll chime in here first I suppose.

Bottom line is, the Boxster is a pretty reliable car. It's no Honda or Lexus, but on the whole there are more cars without problems than with them. And this forum is not an accurate crossection of Boxster owners as most people who post here are looking for help with a problem.

That said, when things do go wrong they can go wrong catestrophically (e.g. RMS failure) and be expensive to fix. The used Boxster market is definatly a minefield and your best weapon in protecting yourself is your pre-purchase inspection. Get it done by a Porsche dealer if possible, or at least a Porsche mechanic. Tell them you want to know of ANYTHING that is wrong or even looks worn. If it comes back clean, go over the car yourself and try out EVERYTHING. Check the operation of the top, windows, alarm, trunks, radio, AC, windshield wipers, windshield/headlight washers, rear spoiler w/ the manual switch (on the road if you can; have to get the car up > 75mph to deploy, and drop below 65mph to retract). Flip every switch, push every button, pull every lever. And if it has cupholders, make sure they pop out and push back in quickly and easily. These can sometimes be broken without you knowing it.

Drive the car for at least 10-15 minutes and make sure the temperature stays around 180-190 degrees. It can creep up on a hot day, but it shouldn't ever go above 200 for more than a few minutes. Make sure you have BOTH keys, or if not, ask for a second one to be made or $250 taken off the car. If they refuse, plan on walking. Also, if it has the windstop, make sure that ALL the parts are they (middle plastic window, and black mesh inserts behind the roll bars) and if any are missing get them replaced or negotiate a reduced price. Basically, just get the option codes from the sticker under the front hood and make sure that all the parts that the car orginally came with are still there. Also check that when you pull the lever to release the top, the windows lower a few inches. Be sure that both windows rais and lower automatically with one-touch on the buttons. When you close the top, the windows should raise up automatically. They should also lower about a centimeter when you open the door and the top is up, and raise up again when you close it to seal.

As far as maintenance, here is what you can expect:

Interval maintenance:
Every 15k miles: $200 for oil change, which you can do yourself for $80.
Every 30k miles: $600-1600 (do alot of it yourself such as the oil change and spend less at the dealer) Call different dealerships as they charge different prices.

Replacement parts:
Tires: $400-500 for the cheap tires (ask RandalNeighbor) or $1000+ for the high-performance ones (like Pirelli P-Zeros). Expect these every 10-15k miles depending on your driving habits. And tires cannot be rotated.
Brake pads: $150-200 for all four

Also, plan on a few thousand on top for an extended warranty. Most folks here recommend the SecureCare+ w/ Emissions from WarrantyDirect. This will replace ANYTHING on your car that breaks or wears out (with the exception of things like tires, brake pads, body panels, etc.). It will also cover an engine replacement if you have something like an RMS failure.

And last, here's some pricey emissions parts you may have to replace over the years (covered with the extended warranty if you get emissions coverage):
Mass air-flow sensor: $300-500
O2 sensors (4 I think): $100-120 apiece
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Last edited by Wintermute; 07-17-2006 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 07-17-2006, 12:15 PM   #3
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Ditto on Wintermute's comments. He's right on with all of it.

The car is just about the most-fun car I have every owned, and I wouldn't trade my little black money pit for anything, but I gotta say the reliability of these cars has a great deal to do with their age. Buying a 2-3 year old model will yield many happy days of trouble-free driving without check engine lights, leaks, or squeaks.

Getting into one "cheap" by buying an old one with high mileage will be anything but reliable. Search the threads for my posts to learn how I know this so well!

Click the links I set up for boxster-lookers like you. It should be helpful.

Last edited by RandallNeighbour; 07-17-2006 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 07-17-2006, 01:31 PM   #4
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Awesome writeup... thank you


maybe this should be in a FAQ somewhere
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Old 07-17-2006, 01:34 PM   #5
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To expand on Randall's comments, your best bet is to get as late a model as you can afford. This might mean you forgo the S, but the benefits are pretty great going from a 2000 S to a 2003 base. Also they redesigned the interior (for the better) in 2001, replacing the ugly 4-spoke steering wheel with the more elegant 3-spoke.

2000 Model changes:
· Addition of the S model, with a 3.2 liter engine pushing 250hp
. Upgraded base model froma 2.5 liter to 2.7 liter, increasing power to 217hp

2001 Model changes:
· Porsche Stability Management antiskid system optional
· Revised gauges
· New standard electric front and rear trunk releases
· Softer rollbar coverings
· LED "orientation lights" in door pulls, ignition switch and center console
· Ignition key allows remote access to both trunks.
· Self-dimming inside/outside mirrors packaged with rain-sensing wipers optional
· Change to 3-spoke steering wheel with Porsche crest

2002 Model changes:
· In-dash cupholder in place of a clip-on
· In-trunk emergency release.

2003 Model changes:
· Base engine gained 11 horsepower to 228 and S engine gained 8 to 258.
· A heated glass rear window replaced plastic in the convertible top.
· Both models got modified front air intakes, body-color vs. black side scoops, and "smoked" plastic turn-signal lenses.
· Climate controls are relocated and the first dashboard glovebox is added.
· Redesigned rear air spoiler
· Side intakes louvers brought out to flush with the body and painted to match
· Gray/white turn signals replace yellow/orange
· Revised console between seats

In retrospect, I wish I had bought a 2003, but then again the changes made weren't phenomenal and I have no qualms with anything on my 2002. Only thing I would like is the glass rear window.

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