Still Doesn't Run - Help!

[Deserion]

I'm getting sick of this.

Original fuel pump crapped out on 4/1, replaced with OE pump on 4/6, crapped out again on 4/7, replaced with another OE pump on 4/12, and crapped out again on 4/13.

I have no idea what could be causing the pump to go inop so quickly. I ran the car a lot last night, cycled the ignition, worked great. After it was installed, it was covered fully in fuel before I turned the car on. Lines weren't kinked, no problems. Now back to square one, just cranks and doesn't fire.

Guys, I need to get my Boxster back on the road ASAP. Having one car in the house right now is, shall we say, very inconvenient, and I miss driving it.

Now that it's been positively in the fuel system, what in the car could cause it to fry a pump within a 12-hour window? Electrical, obviously, but what? The pump would cycle on (audibly) when the key was turned, and didn't stay on.

I need help!

Update: Replaced sending unit (w/ internal fuel filter) and fuel pump with used examples, drained the gas tank completely, and refilled with fresh 93 octane. Problem solved. Old fuel in the tank smelled old, not as pungent as fresh gas does - likely a contributor to the failure.
Related threads:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/43943-wont-start-dropping-oil-level.html
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/44095-no-start-continuation.html

[Skootnasty]

It isn't supposed to stay on, with out cranking the engine. It's in case of a wreck and the engine stalls, you don't want the pump to pump gas out until the battery goes dead, or the whole scene explodes into a giant inferno.

Now in order to burn up a pump, taking you for your word that this is happening, it would have to draw too many Amps. And with out blowing a fuse (not easy). This pretty much rules out any type of short in B+ between pump and fuse. Now this leaves the ground circuit. If the ground circuit is corroded/breaking down, then this could result in a very hot ciruit inside the pump motor. The "easiest" way to check it would be to voltage drop from the grounding point to B-. You should get no more than .2V. If it is higher, like .6. or worse yet something 1V+, then your ground wire is bad and requires repair/replacement.

Not knowing you exact year, I would voltage drop Ground Point 3 on the left support frame, then go from there.

Skoot

[Deserion]

Originally Posted by Skootnasty

It isn't supposed to stay on, with out cranking the engine. It's in case of a wreck and the engine stalls, you don't want the pump to pump gas out until the battery goes dead, or the whole scene explodes into a giant inferno.

I'm aware of this. I stated it didn't stay on as to point out the pump came on to pressurize when the car was turned on (not started), and did not continue to run as to burn itself out with the car being un-started/turned off.

Originally Posted by Skootnasty

Now in order to burn up a pump, taking you for your word that this is happening, it would have to draw too many Amps. And with out blowing a fuse (not easy). This pretty much rules out any type of short in B+ between pump and fuse. Now this leaves the ground circuit. If the ground circuit is corroded/breaking down, then this could result in a very hot ciruit inside the pump motor. The "easiest" way to check it would be to voltage drop from the grounding point to B-. You should get no more than .2V. If it is higher, like .6. or worse yet something 1V+, then your ground wire is bad and requires repair/replacement.

We took apart the original pump and it's quite seized. No idea on pump #2 as that was exchanged under warranty for #3. No fuses have blown (have been checking). Will check the voltage readings soon, thanks.

Originally Posted by Skootnasty

Not knowing you exact year, I would voltage drop Ground Point 3 on the left support frame, then go from there.

Skoot

See sig, 2004.

[Deserion]

Problem solved!

I returned the second faulty fuel pump, and ordered a used pump and sending unit from DC Auto. Along with those new (used) parts, a fresh fuel pump relay, and fresh fuel, the car performs. Period.

The gas I pumped out of the tank smelled old and not nearly as strong as gasoline is supposed to smell. Even after getting it on my hands, the smell largely disappeared - kind of odd. So with a dry tank, I installed the (very lightly) used pump, then the used sending unit. All locked in, I dumped in 5 gallons of fresh 93 octane (which DID smell strong). Turned the car on, nothing. Forgot to put the new pump relay in (old one was installed), so I swapped that out. Cranked, fired, booyah.

I waited about 2.5 hours and tried again. Started. On my way to work this morning (about 11 hours after the fix was completed), the car fired right up. Refilled the tank with fresh gas, then went to work. Started right back up after sitting.

I'm so, so happy to be driving my Boxster again. I sorely missed having it on the road in the last three (almost four) weeks.

[Homeboy981]

Do you know where you purchased that LAST GAS? It sounds like you may have gotten the "bottom of the barrel" or the additives package on the fuel pump at the station was not working. I would go back to the last place you purchased gas from (the non-smely kind) and see if they have had complaints.

It has happened to me in my Mercedes and the station paid for the cost to fix my fuel pump and gave me a FREE tank of gas. Otherwise, the gas stations are regulated by the state, ask THEM if that station has had ANY problems. Either way, I would get my gas someplace else.

Sorry to hear you were off the road for a few weeks…I FEEL your pain but just glad mine is going again!