3rd Party Keyless Entry DIY (Why Not?)

[Swhitcomb]

http://www.alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/PORSCHE%20BOXSTER%201997-2002.pdf

[78F350]

Just a bump to get this awesome DIY back to the top for our newer members. Still on my to-do list.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Just a bump to get this awesome DIY back to the top for our newer members. Still on my to-do list.

Just do it!

The range on this thing is nuts! I'm not a great judge of distance, but it has to be at least 200ft...possibly twice that. I know it's at least double the range of my wife's Mazda and my sons Volvo. I think that is likely due to the fact that the fob uses a 12V battery vs the 3V button cells in most factory units.

2 years later and I'm still on the original battery and no noticeable decrease in range.

[joecal]

Originally Posted by Mikluuutus

Just got mine from the post office. It's got install instructions like this:



Couple of questions.

1. Do I just use Fig 3 negative trigger? So in my case I would have to attach Blue and Yellow/Black wires to the cars ground and Brown to cars Brown/white and Yellow to cars Brown/red?

2. Where I can get easily +12v in the car?

3. How about the trunk actuator? There is only Trunk release output (Purple). Do you know to where I should attach that in the car? And how do I know if it is positive or negative output? I think it might be positive so I would need a relay there.

Big thanks to you guys in advance!

Hello, I know it's an old thread but the wiring colors on mine are the same as the ones in this post. Does anyone know how it should be wired? I got the parking lights to work properly but that's it, it's not locking or unlocking. I probably have it wired wrong. If the immobilizer isn't working correctly would that matter? I don't think it would but just checking. I had mine repaired but who knows, if it's really working correctly. Any help is appreciated.

[particlewave]

You want to use diagram "C".

1) On the aftermarket keyless entry module, ground the blue wire and the yellow wire with black stripe.

2) Connect the keyless entry module's brown wire to the OEM immobilizer's brown wire with white stripe for lock.

3) Connect the keyless entry module's yellow wire to the OEM immobilizer's brown wire with red stripe for unlock.

Do not cut the OEM immobilizer's lock and unlock wires. Just tap into them.

[joecal]

Thanks particlewave, that's a big help and thanks for the original post! It would be nice to have keyless entry working on the car.

[joecal]

Thanks particlewave, I really appreciate it and thanks for your original post. It will be nice to have keyless entry working on the car hopefully.

[joecal]

I finally got mine working. The locking button wasn't working on the fob. I had the wiring wrong, I had it hooked up to the brown wire with a gray stripe, instead of the brown wire with a white stripe. It looked like a faded white stripe to me, lol. I was so glad when I saw that the correct wire and knew I found the problem. If you don't want to take the seat out of the car, you can unbolt it and move it forward enough to get to the immobilizer. That way you don't have to unplug the seat so you don't have to worry about setting off any codes like the airbag code. It's a pretty easy install in hindsight as long as you have the wiring correct. It's probably a 30-60 minute job if you don't screw up like I did. There are a total of 8 connections and 3 are grounds if you don't hook up the trunk release which I didn't. I noticed too my horn beeps once after locking it, just like the factory one and the lights flash once when locking and twice when unlocking. Thanks again particlewave for your help!

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by joecal

I finally got mine working. The locking button wasn't working on the fob. I had the wiring wrong, I had it hooked up to the brown wire with a gray stripe, instead of the brown wire with a white stripe. It looked like a faded white stripe to me, lol. I was so glad when I saw that the correct wire and knew I found the problem. If you don't want to take the seat out of the car, you can unbolt it and move it forward enough to get to the immobilizer. That way you don't have to unplug the seat so you don't have to worry about setting off any codes like the airbag code. It's a pretty easy install in hindsight as long as you have the wiring correct. It's probably a 30-60 minute job if you don't screw up like I did. There are a total of 8 connections and 3 are grounds if you don't hook up the trunk release which I didn't. I noticed too my horn beeps once after locking it, just like the factory one and the lights flash once when locking and twice when unlocking. Thanks again particlewave for your help!

That's great to hear!

Unless you hooked up the horn function on the aftermarket keyless entry, the beep means something is not closed or secure. It's usually the center console lid.

[joecal]

Originally Posted by particlewave

That's great to hear!

Unless you hooked up the horn function on the aftermarket keyless entry, the beep means something is not closed or secure. It's usually the center console lid.

Hi particlewave, thanks for that information. I did not hook up the horn function and didn't realize the beep meant something's not closed. My frunk was not latched, so that must have been why it beeped. I'll have to check that out! That's good to know.

[Swhitcomb]

I never did get mine to function properly. I did learn a few things.

1. My window regulator was shot, and that's why the window wouldn't drop
2. The microswitch and led in the drivers door were not hooked up. They are now.
3. The gas door lock actuator in my car is broken. You can hear the motor on it spin but the hear seems to be striped. I have a new one I just need to install it.
4. I'm not 100% certain, but I THINK that's why the car won't unlock with the key. The lock is isn't sensing it hit the limit in either direction and is giving an error code for both.

Am I way off base with my thinking or is that a possible solution?

[particlewave]

A faulty gas door lock actuator won't prevent the door locks from working. I'd start by grounding the lock and unlock wires at the immobilizer to see if the door locks work properly. If they do, the problem is in the door latch mechanism or the wiring between it and the immobilizer.

Edit: I forgot about all of your issues and related codes. I'd still start with the grounding test and see/report what that does. Did you ever test or replace the door latch mechanisms?

[Swhitcomb]

I have checked the microswitches on the inside door handles. I have not checked the switches at the locks. Honestly I was frustrated with it last time I worked on it, so I haven't really messed with it much in the last year or two. It was only when I put the new window regulators in last week I decided to mess with it again. I checked the door handle microswitches and realized that the passenger side interior handle switch wasn't hook up. It's fixed now.

I'll play with it some this weekend. What's the most curious part is that it locks and unlocks with the remote just fine until the alarm arms about 20 seconds after it's locked. Then it won't unlock anymore.

[Craig030774]

Hi I have a 99 2.5 and I'm installing keyless entry and mine is doing exactly as you describe. I have run a supply directly from battery so rules that out. Also I ran a wire from brown / red to earth and nothing but as soon as you use the key (only fitted to drivers door) you can lock/unlock until the alarm/immobiliser disables it

[Craig030774]

Originally Posted by Swhitcomb

I have checked the microswitches on the inside door handles. I have not checked the switches at the locks. Honestly I was frustrated with it last time I worked on it, so I haven't really messed with it much in the last year or two. It was only when I put the new window regulators in last week I decided to mess with it again. I checked the door handle microswitches and realized that the passenger side interior handle switch wasn't hook up. It's fixed now.

I'll play with it some this weekend. What's the most curious part is that it locks and unlocks with the remote just fine until the alarm arms about 20 seconds after it's locked. Then it won't unlock anymore.

What I'm thinking of doing is running a temp supply to actuator as the unit still grounds just need to know what wire feeds it

[particlewave]

I replied to you on Facebook, Craig. If can lock/unlock with the key, then there's no reason that the keyless entry module wouldn't work. Can you post pictures of the instructions that came with it and a close up of the wires you tapped for all connections?

[Craig030774]

Originally Posted by particlewave

I replied to you on Facebook, Craig. If can lock/unlock with the key, then there's no reason that the keyless entry module wouldn't work. Can you post pictures of the instructions that came with it and a close up of the wires you tapped for all connections?

Put photos on Facebook as easier. I'm having the exact symptoms as switchcomb. As he needed to reverse the unlock/lock function. ( also tried a different remote kit to rule that out)

[joecal]

Originally Posted by joecal

I finally got mine working. The locking button wasn't working on the fob. I had the wiring wrong, I had it hooked up to the brown wire with a gray stripe, instead of the brown wire with a white stripe. It looked like a faded white stripe to me, lol. I was so glad when I saw that the correct wire and knew I found the problem. If you don't want to take the seat out of the car, you can unbolt it and move it forward enough to get to the immobilizer. That way you don't have to unplug the seat so you don't have to worry about setting off any codes like the airbag code. It's a pretty easy install in hindsight as long as you have the wiring correct. It's probably a 30-60 minute job if you don't screw up like I did. There are a total of 8 connections and 3 are grounds if you don't hook up the trunk release which I didn't. I noticed too my horn beeps once after locking it, just like the factory one and the lights flash once when locking and twice when unlocking. Thanks again particlewave for your help!

I was thinking about wiring (connecting) the trunk release which I haven't done. I've read the previous posts covering that but I was wondering if installing a relay is necessary and if so can it be installed under drivers seat? I did pull the cover off of my unit and it looks like there are 3 relays in there. I just don't want to damage the unit, I have a relay I can use if I have too. Any insight is appreciated.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by joecal

I was thinking about wiring (connecting) the trunk release which I haven't done. I've read the previous posts covering that but I was wondering if installing a relay is necessary and if so can it be installed under drivers seat? I did pull the cover off of my unit and it looks like there are 3 relays in there. I just don't want to damage the unit, I have a relay I can use if I have too. Any insight is appreciated.

Do you hear a click from the unit when you press the trunk button? If yes, then it's on a relay already.

[joecal]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Do you hear a click from the unit when you press the trunk button? If yes, then it's on a relay already.

Good point! I don't hear anything when I press the trunk button, so I'll assume there is no relay for it. Thanks for your help particlewave!