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Old 05-10-2015, 05:36 PM   #1
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Flaps10, are you a pilot?
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:10 AM   #2
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Has anybody tried taking them (motor/trans) out together?
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:49 AM   #3
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Heliguy,
Yes. Single and Multi Commercial, non current CFII. My day job is flight deck design and I currently fly for pleasure.

Bootleg,
If I had an actual lift (which lifts the entire car vertically) then I would do it that way for sure. As it is, if you drop the engine/transmission together, the width of the engine would be too wide to make it past the rear suspension castings. You would either have to lift the car way up to clear it, or split the engine and transmission/pull the transmission out/rotate the engine/pull the engine out.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOTLEG View Post
Has anybody tried taking them (motor/trans) out together?
Indeed. I took them out together and replaced them together. Clearing the castings did require lifting the back of the car until the nose was nearly on the ground.
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:03 AM   #5
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just an idea

Flaps & James,
Thx for your thoughts. Looking at the Quick Jack.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Qye_-Lyb58

Thinking I could build a structure beneath it. Then using conventional hyd jack, raise each side and slide the assembly in place. Once level and on the stand at ~10" height, I could raise the 22" of the lift jack for a total elevation of ~32" Would that be sufficient to remove the engine & trans together? See any flaws here?
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:17 PM   #6
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I thought I would give a quick update. I just posted in another thread that I had about 750 miles since putting the engine back in. I just looked and I'm at 909 miles (less than 30 with the top up. Low 50's and a light drizzle and that b**** is down). I had intended to dump the oil and cut the filter open about 409 miles ago, but apparently I'm a few days late.

No leaks. Coolant is still coolant colored, oil is still looking just like $80 worth of fairly fresh oil should. I should have already ordered some Joe Gibbs oil for the next stretch but have not.

Temps are good. It's a fun car to drive, especially above 4k rpm. I don't even think I've hit 6000 rpm yet. I'll spare the rod for a while until I actually trust it. It sounds fantastic, but too quiet for my tastes.

I added up my receipts and while I'm missing a few they added up to $2816. My girlfriend doubts that number and had figured I was between $5-10k. I knew it wasn't that high for sure and had a number in my head of around $3500. I know what some of the missing receipts are for and while all of the big ticket items are accounted for I would allow that some of my add-ons may "add on" another $300-ish. The total tally includes every clutch part except the flywheel (which checked out fine) and the disc itself (it was fine and will certainly last until the next time I'm in there).

Based on that math I would say I'm WAY ahead of anyone purchasing a used motor from a wrecked car. I KNOW what is in my engine. Every part. The knowledge gained from holding all the pieces, measuring, torquing has been priceless in terms of preparing to build a better one in the future. No rush...

While getting reacquainted with the car I have begun to recall the things which were going to need attention. I have some suspension noises which, from my searches, appear to be sway bar links front and back, and my left rear "track arm" which makes a rattle right behind my back on some road surfaces. Under heavy braking the front tends to wander side to side a bit (for other than heavy braking there is no such squirming). Probably looking at front lower control arms and tie rod ends to freshen up the front of the car.

My steering column makes some crunchy sounds if you're doing any parking lot lock-to-lock work. My power steering pump is noisy, something I hadn't noticed before. As it does for most victims, er, Porsche owners, the pump tends to make noise only when cold. Fluid level is fine (just above the line) and I used the Pentosin called for on the cap.

I had replaced all my clutch components because I had difficulty engaging first and reverse, and I could feel a certain amount of clutch drag. On a perfectly flat surface I could engage first gear and the car would move ever so slowly forward, and going to reverse, well, you get the idea. I had already bled my clutch several times and replaced both my clutch master and slave cylinders prior to discovering metal in my oil.

The current clutch drag is much less than before but I'm still having difficulty with first and reverse. Shifter mechanism and cables are on the list to check/replace.

Now that I've read some more I realize I should have taken a fellow forum member's advice and replaced my transmission fluid before putting the braces and stiffening pan back on. Seems the 6 speed is susceptible to such behavior if the wrong fluid is used. And if that's not it, then my first gear synchro is toast. Yay. Another project.

My high beams don't work. They work to flash as passing lights, but when you push the lever forward they just stay low. I think it was doing that BM (before metal).

My paint job is like a crime scene. It's actually in pretty good shape, but it's got tons of little scratches all over the car. Several months ago I attended the only local PCA event I've been to so far and it was at Griot's garage which just happens to be minutes from where I live. At the time I knew I would some day be interested in freshening up my paint job, but with a gaping hole for an engine bay I had more pressing matters. I certainly didn't want to disprove the theory that you can't polish a turd. They have a kit with polisher and several products which they assure me will make my car look tons better.

I just scored some floor mats from a fellow inmate (factory ones, they're excellent). Just moments ago I received an ebay short shifter kit. No other parts on the way at the moment.

Last edited by flaps10; 05-16-2015 at 06:21 PM.
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