my DIY engine rebuild

[Jake Raby]

Consider reindexing the slots for the exhaust cam sprocket more toward the middle. As they are you have no room for adjustment at a later date. That later date might be really soon.

After its together spin the engine 20 times CW and then recheck cam timing. In most cases a small correction will need to be made.

[Chuck W.]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

Consider reindexing the slots for the exhaust cam sprocket more toward the middle. As they are you have no room for adjustment at a later date. That later date might be really soon.

After its together spin the engine 20 times CW and then recheck cam timing. In most cases a small correction will need to be made.

Class act Mr. Raby. Class act.

[flaps10]

Originally Posted by Chuck W.

Class act Mr. Raby. Class act.

Indeed. Much appreciated.

I got the lifter carrier off the cylinder head this morning. It would seem that the builder of this engine was certain that gray goo was supposed to be applied to every possible surface in order to keep the oil inside.


Starting to collect a pile.

Getting the cylinder head off was a matter of removing four screws and then the large long bolts. I had neglected to remove the chain ramp pivot bolt but just by wiggling the head it was obvious where the hang up was. Out it came and the head came off.



I was a bit startled to see a stray piece of metal, visible in the coolant passage at the lower left of the picture above.


A close up.

It was that piece of foil that seals every oil and coolant jug we purchase, and somehow this one ended up in my engine. Could have been a really bad thing down the road.

This is a look the other direction:


Out came my oil pump:


And water pump:

[Jamesp]

The metal in the coolant passage is cause for concern, particularly since the engine appears to have had some work in the past. What does the block side of the water pump look like? Failed metal impeller water pumps are legend on this forum.

[kjc2050]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

What does the block side of the water pump look like? Failed metal impeller water pumps are legend on this forum.

Isn't that a picture of the block side of the WP right above your post?

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by kjc2050

Isn't that a picture of the block side of the WP right above your post?

Looks like I must have missed it multiple times as looking back I don't see it. Metal water pump impellers can machine the block which would be visible in the block after the water pump is removed. I did not find that shot in the pictures provided. If the block was machined by a metal impeller, metal in the coolant passages could be expected. This could obstruct the coolant flow resulting in specific areas of the engine overheating. In any event to me, finding FOD in the coolant passages indicates a complete tear down to clean out the coolant galleys. That's a big deal, but allows building the engine up from the crank out. My engine had 120k on it, and the bearings were shot with dealer service intervals / Mobile 1 oil changes as recommended by Porsche. The timing chains off the IMS can also be changed if the block is split which is a benefit.

[kjc2050]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

Looks like I must have missed it multiple times as looking back I don't see it. Metal water pump impellers can machine the block which would be visible in the block after the water pump is removed. I did not find that shot in the pictures provided.

Sorry, this is a matter of semantics. I interpreted "what does the block side of the water pump look like" as "what does the side of the water pump that mates to the block look like," but what you actually meant was "what does the block look like where the water pump mounts to it?" :-)

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

The metal in the coolant passage is cause for concern, particularly since the engine appears to have had some work in the past. What does the block side of the water pump look like? Failed metal impeller water pumps are legend on this forum.

The picture does show a foil tab that seals a bottle of some sort. Maybe from the previous owner applying IMS Bearing Repair in a Can.

[flaps10]

Originally Posted by BFeller

The picture does show a foil tab that seals a bottle of some sort. Maybe from the previous owner applying IMS Bearing Repair in a Can.

Well apparently they didn't read the instructions, or didn't use enough. cough.

I didn't have time for a pic this morning as I suited up for the ride in, but I did look at the crankcase side of water pump housing. It is slightly discolored from the coolant but it is 100% "as cast" and doesn't have a mark on it.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by flaps10

Well apparently they didn't read the instructions, or didn't use enough. cough.

I didn't have time for a pic this morning as I suited up for the ride in, but I did look at the crankcase side of water pump housing. It is slightly discolored from the coolant but it is 100% "as cast" and doesn't have a mark on it.

That's good news. Parts are expensive, but you are in a position to turn back the clock on the parts in your engine that tend to wear. My rings had 120K on them, and while clearly worn (about 1/3 gone), they sealed fine, so I kept the $1200 (wow! price rings for anything else) but replaced the really worn parts like the bearings which were down to the steel backing. Check out Gaudin Porsche for good deals, but watch out for shipping. Also, if you are going to replace your IMS bearing do a little research on bearings in general which helps in the decision on what to put back in. I liked the Pelican bolt and seal, but not the bearing due to the seal. Keep up the great work and thanks for the post!