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Old 10-20-2014, 09:51 AM   #10
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 429
f350,
That wrench looks like it would work perfectly. If I don't put the hardware back right after removal then I typically will do the same cardboard piece you show in your picture. Given the nature of every bolt being different for the 986, it saves a lot of time. I arranged all of mine on the bench where they are still sitting and then took a phone pic of them just in case they get moved.

For anyone who messes up, Wayne did a bolt by bolt blow of the arrangement either in his book or on his web page for engine removal. Thanks Wayne!

f350, I also saw on another thread that you're the proud owner of a set of IMS tools so you really are close behind me.

rp17,
If anything the bearing cages seem okay but the bearing races both inner and outer are rough - ironically the inner one is rough for part of the way around and smooth for the rest of the way. The balls are also a bit pitted.

I cleaned out the inside of the intermediate shaft and the debris seemed to be contained near the bearing and it was clean as it went past 1/3 of the way back.

For f350 and those following, when I first got the bearing cover off and touched the bearing it seemed "okay" with only the tiniest amount of roughness detectable (which always means the bearing is toast). The center bolt did have a bit of slop so I knew I was uncovering something. I just had no idea until the bearing was in my hand and the glitter was all present that it hit me just how far gone it was.
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