AutoTop DIY

[JayG]

BUMP as this subject seems to be getting some interest again

It has been a year since I installed this and NO problems at all
There was an initial problem with the code, and Polaris re posted the correct code and all was well

[thatguychad]

I'm new to the forum and I may take this project on, but it's not at the top of the list. I'll order up a couple of nano boards and set them aside for a rainy day. Great writeup!

[mavis.d]

One of the best if not the best mod I've done

[Polaris]

I'm about to install a Pioneer double-din stereo that requires a double-pulse trigger to bypass the parking break lockout for changing audio settings (or playing DVDs while moving, which I don't care about). There is a bypass device available for around $15, but I figured I'd just add it to the AutoTop DIY. Anybody else interested?

In particular, this would apply to at least the Pioneer SPH-DA120 and the AVH-4100NEX and AVH-4200NEX models.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by Polaris

I'm about to install a Pioneer double-din stereo that requires a double-pulse trigger to bypass the parking break lockout for changing audio settings (or playing DVDs while moving, which I don't care about). There is a bypass device available for around $15, but I figured I'd just add it to the AutoTop DIY. Anybody else interested?

In particular, this would apply to at least the Pioneer SPH-DA120 and the AVH-4100NEX and AVH-4200NEX models.

Glad to see you are back on the forum

I am also looking at going to a double din unit, so yes, I would be interested in the updated code, etc

[Polaris]

Yeah, I've not been spending very much time on the forum.

I've been busy driving my Boxster and went back to school to get a BS in information systems while also working full time still.

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by Polaris

I'm about to install a Pioneer double-din stereo that requires a double-pulse trigger to bypass the parking break lockout for changing audio settings (or playing DVDs while moving, which I don't care about). There is a bypass device available for around $15, but I figured I'd just add it to the AutoTop DIY. Anybody else interested?

In particular, this would apply to at least the Pioneer SPH-DA120 and the AVH-4100NEX and AVH-4200NEX models.

I have a AVH-4000NEX and used the ebay bypass.

Are you still building these up for $50? I would love one!

John

[jb92563]

I'll also get around to building your Auto-top Arduino eventually, especially now that I have a glass rear window top,
I also have a double din touch screen (Cheap Chinese version) but what I need is
the reversing wire to go to ground to enable the backup camera.

Is any of the auto-top interfacing/logic able to provide a reverse signal?

If not I may need a microswitch or something on the gear shift linkages
or a relay on a backup taillight to trigger it.

Any ideas.

[oldskool73]

Hey jb92563 - for reverse there's a black wire with blue stripe at the control box under the seat, have a look at the images here : http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/51283-does-anyone-know-vss-wire-02-bose.html

[jb92563]

Thanks OldSkool, I will definately try to locate that wire for the reversing cam.

[oldskool73]

I've been thinking about possible additions to this, I'm good at the code side but rubbish at the electronics, so wondering if someone with more knowledge could chime in on my possibly stupid ideas/questions below...

1) The nano has a VIN that accepts +12v, any reason we can't just use that and skip the Voltage Regulator?

2) The nano has optional built in pullups on the inputs, any reason we can't use them to wire the switch side to GND (instead of +5v) and go directly to pins 8 & 9 without the need for the resistors? (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/DigitalInputPullup)

3) There's a speedometer input wire to the radio (GR/PK), does anyone know what kind of output this provides? I'm assuming if we can figure it out, it could it be used to provide an input that locks the auto open over a certain speed?

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by oldskool73

I've been thinking about possible additions to this, I'm good at the code side but rubbish at the electronics, so wondering if someone with more knowledge could chime in on my possibly stupid ideas/questions below...

1) The nano has a VIN that accepts +12v, any reason we can't just use that and skip the Voltage Regulator?

2) The nano has optional built in pullups on the inputs, any reason we can't use them to wire the switch side to GND (instead of +5v) and go directly to pins 8 & 9 without the need for the resistors? (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/DigitalInputPullup)

3) There's a speedometer input wire to the radio (GR/PK), does anyone know what kind of output this provides? I'm assuming if we can figure it out, it could it be used to provide an input that locks the auto open over a certain speed?

1) Your right, it has its own built in regulator on the 12v IN and a 5v out pin if we need 5v for something.

3) Thats a great idea but no idea on the signal in that wire, but surely it can be handled once we figure it out.

[geraintthomas]

Just a quick one guys. I've just done this and it's a success, very happy. But sometimes it operates VERY slowly, as if you're doing it while the engine isn't running. Any ideas?

Thanks!

[JayG]

Originally Posted by geraintthomas

Just a quick one guys. I've just done this and it's a success, very happy. But sometimes it operates VERY slowly, as if you're doing it while the engine isn't running. Any ideas?

Thanks!

could be your battery

They are electric motors, so if the voltage was lower, they would be slower

[JayG]

Originally Posted by oldskool73

I've been thinking about possible additions to this, I'm good at the code side but rubbish at the electronics, so wondering if someone with more knowledge could chime in on my possibly stupid ideas/questions below...

1) The nano has a VIN that accepts +12v, any reason we can't just use that and skip the Voltage Regulator?

2) The nano has optional built in pullups on the inputs, any reason we can't use them to wire the switch side to GND (instead of +5v) and go directly to pins 8 & 9 without the need for the resistors? (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/DigitalInputPullup)

3) There's a speedometer input wire to the radio (GR/PK), does anyone know what kind of output this provides? I'm assuming if we can figure it out, it could it be used to provide an input that locks the auto open over a certain speed?

You want the voltage regulator to protect the nano. While a car is a nominal 12v, in reality it can get higher. Sure the nano can probably handle a few more volts than 12, but for a buck or 2, why take the chance

[geraintthomas]

Originally Posted by JayG

could be your battery

They are electric motors, so if the voltage was lower, they would be slower

Thanks. Seems to be absolutely fine, might have been something to do with me constantly testing it in a short space of time. It's perfect now

[jpc763]

Has anyone done this recently? I have been waiting for a RoboTop or a ComfortTop to become available and they are not so I am ready to pull out my soldering iron and get to work.

I would think that the basic Arduino will have changed a few times over the past 2 years.

[Polaris]

Arduino is still the same as it ever was, so no problem there. Just make sure you get one of the Atmel ATMega 328 based boards.

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by Polaris

Arduino is still the same as it ever was, so no problem there. Just make sure you get one of the Atmel ATMega 328 based boards.

Can you confirm if this works?

Uno R3 ATMEGA328P CH340 Micro USB Board for Compatible Arduino | eBay

Also, what gauge wire did you use?

I am a SW guy, not a HW guy but I have done HW projects.

Thanks, John

[jb92563]

The CH430 part of of the arduino means its a clone of the original, only difference is that you will need the CH430 driver on your PC in order to upload the software.

Otherwise its identical to an arduino and should work just fine.