How to Fix Broken Lock Cylinder for 20 Dollars

[HELLAS59]

Thank you PorscheFan5. I got it into the car. Everything works great! God Bless you. Whats the proper way of installing the lock into the car? It was so difficult reattaching the metal backing from one end to with the finished handle part on the outside. It didnt help that I didnt remove the metal bar nor the airbag assembly for extra hand room. It was very very difficult to get it in that way, I needed a second pair of hands and still was tough. At the end of the day it all worked out and the car locks and opens perfectly as well as puts down my windows. My Keyless entry recently went out so I need to figure out how to reprogram it. Do I have to go to the dealership for this? Please let me know guys, and sorry if it is a little off topic. Also my key fob button is a little quirky and you have to push really hard on the button for it to blink red and unlock the doors. A few years ago a friend of mine helped me solder the button back on the microchip, but it seems like its losing connection again (New battery already installed in the key). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks again!!!

[PorscheFan5]

You most likely have to go to the dealership to reprogram the fob. And you might have to open the fob up again to check why you have to press so hard. Perhaps the switch has shifted/come loose or the rubber is not pressing the correct place. Once you open it you will see it.

[RegulatorFix]

Originally Posted by PorscheFan5

Peraspera and Others,

I have the same problem that many of you have described. When I put the key in the door lock it would turn freely. I took off the door panel, removed the door lock and the gray mechanism behind it. Exactly as described the disc like part (the rightmost part in my pictures below) is broken. The ears have broken and hence the key is not able the turn the spade.

Question is: If I was to order the VW Kit from Amazon will the similar part from VW kit work? I have a feeling not. Check out the third pic which is the repeat from below and the same part (bottom left in 3rd picture) does not have the slotted segment in it to be able to turn when the key is turned (it has a circular center hole). I could get it and use a small file to file the small slots on both sides of the bore.

My mistake: I used a MALFORMED (slots still 'hanging') part for the photo. The kits all HAVE slots!

[RegulatorFix]

Originally Posted by PorscheFan5

I found the solution to my problem. The VW Golf IV Jetta part on Amazon has the specific part with the slotting that I need.

"RegulatorFix VW Golf IV Jetta Door Lock Repair Kit - Front (left or right)"

This shows the correct (slotted) part of the kit. Earlier photo in the beginning was taken (didn't realize) using a malformed (slots not formed) part.

Kits available on our website (RegulatorFix.com) or Amazon ("RegulatorFix") or ebay ("RegulatorFix"). We can also be reached via Facebook "RegulatorFix".

[RegulatorFix]

Anybody know if any of the 'commonly' available parts from our lock kits (RegulatorFix.com) can be of help for the Boxster 987 (2004–2012) model?
I have not found any good photo of the lock for that model.

[Arthsac]

Hello guys!!! I need help. I can't figure out how to put the spring back so it has tension when I turn the key. Can somebody please post a picture of how it's supposed to be? Any assistance I would really appreciate!

[RegulatorFix]

Originally Posted by Arthsac

Hello guys!!! I need help. I can't figure out how to put the spring back so it has tension when I turn the key. Can somebody please post a picture of how it's supposed to be? Any assistance I would really appreciate!

I have one with 'tips' to get the fiddely spring back in and the retainer "C" on top, but for the Passat:

RegulatorFix.com under the 'tutorials' tab is the link to the PDF.

http://regulatorfix.com/docs/vwlockrepairv1fv9.pdf

Excerpt: "Step11 : This is where the spring goes in, when you are pushing the paddle down you need to twist it put
the other end of the spring behind the catch roughly in the position of the arrow.
This part was a SERIOUS pain in the arse for me. I dont' have any tips for this, possible long
nails and push the lock against your chest as you put downward pressure and turn it. It does
go in but took me like 3 hrs as I ripped my nails to crap "

I think I red somewhere to take a ball pen apart, put a slot in one of the tubes (for the spring end) to help with twisting and pushing the spring.

I get it sometimes in one minute, but first time took me forever.

[911monty]

Look at the pic attached. You can just see the spring ends behind the lock cylinder actuator lever. You will place the spring ends on opposite sides of the lever under tension to work properly.

[Dubaday]

Originally Posted by peraspera19

Hopefully this will help others save money in the future!

You are awesome for this, Thank you

I just replaced my doorlock with this kit and it had the piece I needed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT1GUNK/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

If anyone else needs to do this in the future and don't want to struggle remembering how to put it back together (me), here's a little sequence in reinstalling along with some pictures

First off, here's the old bunny ear piece still packed with old lithium grease in the lock

The culprit




The top row is what's included in the $3.49 regulator fix package
Part circled in yellow replaces number 1

Sequence for reinstallation ;
1 goes in first, with the bunny ears facing UPWARDS.
2 goes in second with the ears facing DOWNWARD.
than its the tricky part. You have to install 3 and 4 at the same time.
The spring (3) first with the paddle right on top of it.
But the ring(4) has to be in before the paddle is locked by the quick release washer(5)
If you refer back to the first picture,
you want the ring(simulated in red) to seat between the green lines marked.
Squeeze the ears on number 4 to the opposite directions(yellow)
Than once in place, push the paddle down and retain it together by sliding in the quick release washer(5).

Don't forget to pack with enough white lithium grease!
Hope this helps others in the future.

[TylerLee]

This post will save my money as now i can repair padlock by own. I won't prefer calling the dealer or locksmith for such lock repairs. I appreciate your effort in providing such brilliant information..

[Bill Ford]

You have shared a brilliant content, by learning from this you can repair your padlock by own.You won't need any locksmith to repair padlock.

[Bill Ford]

You have shared a brilliant content, by learning from this you can repair your padlock by own.You won't need any locksmith to repair padlock.

[Booker42]

I just finished this job and Dubaday's comments are perfect. Do not use any new part EXCEPT for the broken bunny ear part (Part 1). Even though part 2 looks similar, the new one is slightly larger and will frustrate the heck out of you when you try and lock on the springs. Obviously the paddle is different and had seemed to have and caused a lot of confusion in earlier posts.

Here are the steps I recommend:
1) order VW part from Amazon or EBay
2) order triple square bit set (I stripped one bolt with a T-30 torx that seemed to fit)
3) disconnect battery
4) remove door panel
5) remove metal bar and airbag (you need the room for sure)
6) the rest has already been described well...use all old parts except part 1

Obviously if something other than part 1 is broken then disregard!

[Leonardo111]

Thanks for the info!
Here's a good how to video I made with $4 ebay part

https://youtu.be/pzSZnWOb_Z4

[steverw]

fixed the lock, the ears had broken off. had to file down the shoulders of the tab so the key would turn smoothly (interesting design to use that tab as a cam to create friction the more you turn the key). thanks to all for the advice, ideas. i was so pleased about rebuilding the lock, but things after reassembling the door things are not working. it all looks right, the key unlocks the drivers door, but the passenger door does not follow, it does not lock or unlock. just mechanical locking is working. all the wires look connected. any advice?

Also, the windows do work, they move down just that little bit when you pull up the latch, but it seems to me the window is not aligned any more, there seem more gap to the left of raised glass, and even lowered it hits the roof. could diassembling the door have moved the window position?

[RegulatorFix]

Originally Posted by RegulatorFix

Anybody know if any of the 'commonly' available parts from our lock kits (RegulatorFix.com) can be of help for the Boxster 987 (2004–2012) model?
I have not found any good photo of the lock for that model.

Can someone chime in?

[Stl-986]

about what? this thread is over 8 years old

[RegulatorFix]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

about what? this thread is over 8 years old

About the quoted text (its right in my post).

[Stl-986]

You might want to ask on Rennlist under the 987 section as the 986 boxster isn't the same and is what majority of this forum is for.

[RegulatorFix]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

You might want to ask on Rennlist under the 987 section as the 986 boxster isn't the same and is what majority of this forum is for.

Will check the 987 forums; I found one photo so far (but not confirmed if it IS the lock of a 987), and that looked completely different from the 986 lock.