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Old 01-23-2014, 01:54 AM   #181
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I see no reason why you can't drill anywhere along the pipe, as long as you are still within the middle compartment and your drill bit is long enough. I drilled roughly in the middle of the bend. I first created a notch with a screwdriver and then used a 6mm drill and worked up.

For info, I have just ordered 20mm and 25mm drill bits and will be amending my video so you can compare the difference in sound between the smaller (10mm, 13mm, 15mm) and the bigger holes.

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Old 01-23-2014, 04:56 AM   #182
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Guys,
I'm sure it sounds different, possibly better than stock. But i don't see that you are bypassing any chambers at all.
I think the flow of the arrows is wrong on that picture.
Starting on the left (red arrow) the gasses enter here. They collect and equalize in the second chamber (when counting from left to right). When the pressure is sufficient, they progress - still from left to right - to the fifth chamber on the far right.
The final journey is from the collection chamber on the far right round the curved pipe and out.
Yes, there is some over-spill equalization in the center chamber but its not the primary route as gases in there eventually get pushed back to the left or right.
So why would you want to drill a hole in the pipe which is actually helping the exhaust gasses out (i.e.) the curved pipe. Surely doing this hinders the flow of the gas by allowing it to escape into the center chamber and hence hinder the expulsion.
Well.....that's how i see it anyway. ha ha. But if you like the sound....fair enough.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:19 AM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EssexPorsche View Post
Guys,
I'm sure it sounds different, possibly better than stock. But i don't see that you are bypassing any chambers at all.
That's essentially correct. However, you are allowing some of the exhaust gas to bypass all but chamber 3 and go directly out the exit. This is similar to the Porsche sport exhaust, except that the amount of flow through the drilled holes is restricted by the flow through the baffle in chamber 3.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:25 AM   #184
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This one is a bit clearer

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Old 01-23-2014, 07:16 AM   #185
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I did look when my box was off but didn't pay that much attention. I am pretty sure though that the inlet pipe (from the left and rights sides) goes right through i.e. no blockages - maybe someone with a box off can confirm this.

If so, then by drilling a hole on the bend you are allowing gas that diffuses out in the middle chamber to exit directly, rather than first being routed to the 5th chamber and then out. Wouldn't make a huge difference to anything but enough to change the exhaust note.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:00 AM   #186
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The arrow diagram posted earlier in this thread is incorrect and misleading. This is what's happening:

A) Following the left side (yellow), exhaust enters chamber 2 (with slight bleed off to chamber 1 for mixing with right side (red) exhaust through small holes in inlet pipe). From chamber 2, it is split and goes to chamber 5 and center chamber 3 where it is mixed with the right side (red) exhaust and dumped back into chambers 2 and 4.

B) From chamber 2, exhaust goes to chamber 5. In chamber 5, exhaust is again mixed with right side (red) exhaust, but to a lesser degree than the center chamber (see small holes in inlet pipe).

C) Chamber 5 exits directly to exhaust tip


So, by drilling holes in the exit pipe, you are creating flow from the center mixing chamber directly to exit, essentially creating a small bypass directly from inlet to exit with only the center chamber pipe working as a slight flow restrictor/baffle (similar to the PSE, IIRC...except that the PSE uses an exterior pipe to do the same thing).
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:05 AM   #187
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Here you can see the center chamber and baffle pipe more clearly. That pipe connects chambers 2 and 4 and diffuses into chamber 3.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:11 AM   #188
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And after drilling...
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:18 AM   #189
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That makes sense. Nice diagram
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:45 AM   #190
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Let me know if your able to achieve the angle with a drill bit to get to that pipe. I haven't tried but I will once it's not 10degrees out.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:51 PM   #191
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I may have missed it, but I notice this mod addresses S models, it there a mod like this just for the 986 Base? My apologies if this was covered and I skipped over it
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:16 PM   #192
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Not sure, but it worked on my '99 base; increased low growl and I swear the throttle response increased. Seems to rev up and drop back to idle a bit quicker.
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:26 PM   #193
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PartWave and everyone else,
do I follow the same directions for drilling, I presume two holes, just like the S instructions?I've never really looked inside the tailpipe to see if the outlet consists of two holes, just like the S model.
You didn't notice any loss of power, low end or top end? And I presume no drone
Any downside to doing this modification? I've desnorkeled the 986 already but really didn't notice in appreciable sound change or performance change.

Thanks for the help
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:42 PM   #194
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I followed the instructions here and looking up my tailpipe, it looked the same as the pictures here.
If anything, I thought I felt a slight increase in power, but that was probably due to the fact that I love getting on the throttle even more now because of the awesome sound
Zero increase in drone and no annoying "coffee can muffler" ping/rattle. Excellent sound

I really noticed an increase in throttle response in the 3000-5500 rpm range. I have no regrets and even want to increase my holes from 9/16" to 3/4" or more.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:14 PM   #195
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I did it. 98 base. 1/2 inch hole on each side. Sounds better for sure. No drone at all. I'm thinking of going bigger as well.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:23 PM   #196
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Thanks guys, I know what I'll be doing Saturday morning. Guess I'll go 3/4" and see what happens.

Also going to be applying VHT Nite Shades to my taillights as well. Should sound cool and look cool in the rear end by the end of this weekend
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:05 PM   #197
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One tip: I had a heck of a time with the drill bit side-slipping on me, so after fighting it for 10-15 minutes, I made this out of an old 10" long bolt hole alignment tool. You can get these at a hardware store for about $5.

Worked like a charm! A couple of light taps with a hammer to get it to bite into the curve, then a few good whacks to drive it through. Took all of 30 seconds per side. This makes drilling 10 times easier

Making the point offset to one side helps a ton with getting it to bite on an angle like in the pipe.
(My wonderful MSPaint work in the last pic is a bit deceptive as there aren't any "flat" spots accessible from the tailpipe. All you can see through the tailpipe is curve. )
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Old 01-23-2014, 09:35 PM   #198
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So what would happen if the slight bleed holes in chamber 1 and chamber 5 get opened up more? In first order this will let more of the primary exhaust go straight out of the tail pipes. This is almost the same as the exhaust bypass pipes on the PSE. The big difference is that more of the primary exhaust left (yellow) is going to 'hit' the primary exhaust from the right (red). This could lead to these two exhaust sources starting to 'beat' against each other, i.e. drone.


Quote:
Originally Posted by particlewave View Post
The arrow diagram posted earlier in this thread is incorrect and misleading. This is what's happening:

A) Following the left side (yellow), exhaust enters chamber 2 (with slight bleed off to chamber 1 for mixing with right side (red) exhaust through small holes in inlet pipe). From chamber 2, it is split and goes to chamber 5 and center chamber 3 where it is mixed with the right side (red) exhaust and dumped back into chambers 2 and 4.

B) From chamber 2, exhaust goes to chamber 5. In chamber 5, exhaust is again mixed with right side (red) exhaust, but to a lesser degree than the center chamber (see small holes in inlet pipe).

C) Chamber 5 exits directly to exhaust tip


So, by drilling holes in the exit pipe, you are creating flow from the center mixing chamber directly to exit, essentially creating a small bypass directly from inlet to exit with only the center chamber pipe working as a slight flow restrictor/baffle (similar to the PSE, IIRC...except that the PSE uses an exterior pipe to do the same thing).
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:41 AM   #199
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So how long does the drill bit need to penetrate? I'm confused are we talking about just breaking thru the pipe or are we talking about 2 inches, 3 inches, 4 inches or deeper?

Thanks for the help
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:52 AM   #200
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Just break through the pipe, no further

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