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Old 07-17-2007, 10:02 AM   #1
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Coolant Condensation on Trunk Lid - Bleeder Valve O-Ring Replacement Guide

After have 2 new coolant tanks installed by an incompetent shop I finally emailed Porsche_Joe over on PPBB about the write up he did a while back since I was confused. He was super nice and gave me some useful tips. So I did the procedure with his new information and took some pictures so everyone can share in how to solve the quite common coolant condensation on the inside of the trunk lid problem. ENJOY!

COOLANT BLEEDER VALVE O-RING REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE

Parts:
1 999-707-370-40 Rubber o-ring
1 999-707-371-40 Rubber o-ring

Tools:
Ratchet 1/4" Sears No. 43187
7mm socket 1/4" Sears No. 43503
3" extension 1/4" Sears No. 43539
Regular blade screwdriver

1. With the engine cold, remove the oil and coolant caps. IMPORTANT: The engine MUST BE COLD to prevent the possibility of scalding when removing the coolant cap.

2. Remove the plastic cover to access the bleeder valve. You can carefully pry up the cover using a regular screwdriver. You should see condensation on the underside of the cover and/or dried coolant around the bleeder valve. The bleeder valve is not the problem unless you have one or both of these symptoms.

3. Put the oil and coolant caps back in place. This is IMPORTANT because it prevents you from dropping a bolt or o-ring into one of the openings. That would be a bad thing!

4. Lift the metal ring of the bleeder valve from the horizontal position (closed) to the vertical position (opened).



5. Remove the 8 bolts that secure the bleeder valve to the bleeder valve housing and coolant tank. Lift the bleeder valve from the housing.



6. Remove the bleeder valve housing by pulling straight up. This is a very tight fit. I had to use a regular screwdriver to carefully pry up the housing before I could remove it. Once you “break it loose” it lifts out easily.



7. With the housing removed you will see the two o-rings on the top of the coolant tank. I sprayed some silicone lubricant on the new rings before installing them (yea, yea, yea, I know, silicone lubricant accelerates the deterioration of rubber but that’s what I had available at the time). The lubricant will help keep the rubber o-rings from sticking during assembly. Instead of silicone lubricant you could coat the new o-rings with a thin coat of liquid soap or even use something like Vinlyex. Remove the old o-rings and install the new ones.
Small O-Ring:



Large O-Ring (old one from “brand new tank” on left, real new OEM Porsche right)



Both O-rings on the bleeder valve top



8. Install the housing making sure the bolt holes line up properly.

9. With the bleeder valve still in the open position, install it on the housing.

10. Install the eight bolts (Hint: when starting a screw or bolt, use your fingers to turn it counterclockwise while gently pressing on it until you feel it “pop” into place then turn it clockwise to tighten it. If you do this each time you will never miss thread a screw or bolt again.) Be careful not to over tighten the bolts. I could not find torque specifications in the shop manual. If your problem continues then you may have to come back later and apply a little more torque.



Be very careful here or this could happen to you and you will need a whole new tank if you break the bolts.



11. Close the bleeder valve (move the ring from the vertical position to the horizontal position.)



12. Remove the oil and coolant caps.

13. Install the plastic cover.

14. Install the oil and coolant caps being careful not to miss thread the coolant cap.

15. Go for a nice long test drive.



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Old 07-17-2007, 02:34 PM   #2
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Thanks for the excellent write-up. I'll rest easier knowing that I can alway do a search for this "if" I ever need to replace those o-rings...
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Old 07-21-2007, 11:24 AM   #3
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how much were the O-rings?
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Old 07-21-2007, 03:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djomlas
how much were the O-rings?
$0.77 cents for the larger one and $0.74 for the small one direct from my local dealership. No shipping. Tax of a few cents
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Old 07-21-2007, 11:15 PM   #5
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thx man.
i have some condensation as well on my trunk lid, and since i replaced the coolant cap i keep thinking maybe its that, but ill change these out as well.
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Old 07-22-2007, 12:51 AM   #6
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Awesome write-up!
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Old 07-22-2007, 05:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djomlas
thx man.
i have some condensation as well on my trunk lid, and since i replaced the coolant cap i keep thinking maybe its that, but ill change these out as well.
It might take a few days to clear up after you change them. Took about 3 drives and 200 miles for mine to clear up completely. Now I just gotta figure out if the bleeder valve is suppose to be up all the time since that is what happening now. Nothing is leaking and temp holding so I assume its right, but who knows haha.

Let me know if you have any questions or need help.
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:08 PM   #8
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o-ring replacement

I will be replacing the Coolant bleeder valve and o-rings 2004 S when the parts come in.

I have no problem removing the bleedervalve cap (removing all the bolts)
I'm not clear on removing the housing to get at the o-rings...the post has some great pictures but the one removing the housing did not come out in the post.

does anyone have a picture of the bleedervalve housing
and the easiest wasy to pry it loose.

Last edited by kerrygl; 07-21-2010 at 12:30 PM. Reason: forgot yr model
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:51 PM   #9
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Did this today, will see how it works when I get a chance to drive the car tomorrow

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