Thought exercise: lowering Boxster to Cup height

[truegearhead]

Now that I’ve got the drivetrain running on the track car I want to turn my attention to the suspension. Like the drivetrain setup I want to do something creative with the suspension, I’ve already widened the front suspension by 8”s. For starters I’d like to drop the suspension to a cup height. There are a few ways that come to mind:
1) buy two sets of front cup wheel carriers (there are a ton of small problems with this approach and a lot of cost)
2) modify the control arms to accept a raised ball joints (old school approach)
3) make a bracket that bolts to the stock control arm location and raises the attachment point so the control arm angle is acceptable. This would require widening the car (only a problem in the rear
4)?

What do you guys think, how would you do it?

Bonus points, has anyone adapted a 996 rear subframe to a Boxster? Seems…doable

[truegearhead]

What about swapping out the wheel carriers with hubs with higher hubs? The brakes and axles would need to be swapped. The strut diameters are the same and the carriers seem to use the same design. I'm up for the fab work but the ABS pulse wheel would probably be the deal breaker.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-54420-31216793924-genuine-bmw-part/?gclid=CjwKCAjw9LSSBhBsEiwAKtf0n31GpUZZWI4DDBtxtU9 msQulblfW56BGG9P4xYHBkZgU4WobbRIfUhoCoW8QAvD_BwE


BMW E92 Up right


Boxster Upright

[MaxD]

Let that monster pillage the countryside for a while.

Questions -

• Why do you think going lower is a positive?
  
• Will you have enough suspension travel so you are not always bouncing off the bump stops
  

This could be a costly exercise that might not get you the gains you are after.

[The Radium King]

well, i've spent the past few years racing a 1968 triumph and pretty much fabricated a new driveline and suspension for it in the process. you quickly get comfortable fabricating your own stuff, as there is NO go-fast aftermarket for a 1968 triumph ...

ask yourself - do you want to be able to revert back? if not, then the tried and true approach is to just relocate the inner mounting points a bit higher. a few hours with a skilled welder and you are there. it is amazing what they can do.

otherwise, it's nothing to make a control arm - mcmaster carr, some rod ends, some turn buckles. lock nuts, cone spacers, etc. now, the boxster lca is a bit of a bear, but others have done the work already. find an aftermarket lca with serviceable ball joint on one end and/or a rod end inner mount. then google "extended ball joint" (your #2) or "offset rod end" for ideas on how to maintain your lca geometry on a lowered car.

[truegearhead]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

well, i've spent the past few years racing a 1968 triumph and pretty much fabricated a new driveline and suspension for it in the process. you quickly get comfortable fabricating your own stuff, as there is NO go-fast aftermarket for a 1968 triumph ...

ask yourself - do you want to be able to revert back? if not, then the tried and true approach is to just relocate the inner mounting points a bit higher. a few hours with a skilled welder and you are there. it is amazing what they can do.

otherwise, it's nothing to make a control arm - mcmaster carr, some rod ends, some turn buckles. lock nuts, cone spacers, etc. now, the boxster lca is a bit of a bear, but others have done the work already. find an aftermarket lca with serviceable ball joint on one end and/or a rod end inner mount. then google "extended ball joint" (your #2) or "offset rod end" for ideas on how to maintain your lca geometry on a lowered car.

My current control arms are from McMasterCarr actually.. I like your idea of just welding on a higher control arm point. This car is absolutely not in a “revert back” situation.

[magno_grail]

The difference between the stock and lowered "sport" Bilstein dampers is the length of the topping cushion inside the shock. But that changes the geometry from moving the wheel carrier up the shock body.

[Topless]

There are a lot of practical reasons not to slam the car so you have to do a cost/benefit. I have raised 2 cars that were just too low after a race shop setup. Jack point access, trailering, and undercarriage damage from contact with gators were a few of the reasons.