Accusump install
 

Finally finished the 2 qt Accusump install on my 02 Boxster S 3.2.
I spent about $700 in all.

Sorry, I dropped the ball as I didn't take any pictures of the installation but next time I have it up on jack stands I will take a few with the covers removed.

Here's the drawing I did for the tunnel install. It doesn't include the electrical schematics. If anyone wants part numbers, PM me. I don't want to offend anyone or endorse any particular supplier:) It's just what I used, and my goal was to do the highest quality installation but shopping around for every component to find the best deal/price (especially fittings).

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1500063967.jpg

I did not want to mount the accusump in the rear trunk area as that seemed like a bad idea with heat right next to the DME and having to poke holes in the trunk (not to mention leaks etc...). I also ended up doing the remote oil filter mount instead of using a sandwich plate as I don't have a sump extension and I didn't want the filter to protrude beyond the oil sump. So, it worked out perfect. The 2 quart fits well in the tunnel and I fabbed 2 mounting brackets out of flat aluminum stock that attach to the existing coolant pipe mounts and that attach to both mounting clamps on both ends of the cylinder. I bought a used 2 qt accusump with 35-40 psi EPC solenoid valve with pressure switch, had it rebuilt by Canton Racing. All the fittings are black anodized -10AN and the hose is 10AN SS braided Aeroquip 300F / 1,000 psi hose with a min bend radius of 4in. I wanted to use the PTFE hose, but that stuff is wayyyy too stiff... I used a remote oil filter take-off plate mounted to the LNE spin-on oil adapter, and mounted the remote oil filter mount on the vertical wall right next to the water pump area, and used a Napa Gold 1042 spin on filter. There is just enough room to mount it there. It is tight, but with the correct angled fittings, it is doable. I can easily access the oil filter now.

For electrical, I installed an ON/OFF toggle switch on the left side of the batwing insert, and an idiot light (pilot light) on the right side of the batwing insert for when the accusump is dumping (<40 psi). The electrical circuit is pretty simple, just run a fuse tap from the C4 fuse (switched) next to the dead pedal, run it through the master switch, through the NC contact on the EPC pressure switch, then to the solenoid valve. Ground the other solenoid valve wire. I ran another wire from the NC contact of the pressure switch to the idiot light. Ground the other idiot light wire.

Before starting for the first time, I pre-filled the oil filter with oil before installation, then hand cranked the engine by hand for about 10 revolutions as I didn't want to start the engine dry:eek: Then, I removed the fuel pump fuse, and crank the engine for a couple 5 second increments to oil up the engine prior to firing it up. Finally, I re-installed the fuel pump fuse and fired up the engine. With the Accusump off, first thing I checked was the oil pressure gauge on the remote oil filter mount, reading 50 psi, so I breathed a sigh of relief... Then I turned the accusump master switch ON and saw about 50 psi on the air side, so I knew that was working too. Then, then last test was to see if the pre-oiling worked. I made sure I revved up the engine before turning the master switch off, then turned the key to the on position and observed the accusump idiot light ON and heard the oil pre-filling the engine. Then I started the engine and that was such a smooth start! No clatter whatsoever! Inspected everything for leaks, all was good, so I buttoned everything up and took it for a ride.

Observations:

* As the oil gets hotter, the accusump idiot light (on when accusump dumping) turns on at RPMs<2,200, so at idle and at low rpms.
* Have to rev up RPMs > 3,000 to recharge the accusump, especially prior to shutting off engine.

I might just use the pre-oiling then shut the accusump off for street driving, unless there is a benefit to keeping it on all the time?

For DE, track and Auto-X days, it will stay on all the time.

Nice writeup. If anyone is thinking of doing this, I have a 3-qt accusump system that I will be selling soon.

I would be interested to see a photo of the remote oil filter mount the next time you are under there. Sounds like a very slick install. Us 97-2001 are stuck with the big fuel filter in the tunnel...

One thing that I would consider is adding a city mode switch with a timed relay. So when you turn the key to the ON position, the relay would engage the EPC valve for 5 seconds or so then turn it off so it can be recharged and so it doesn't dump all the time at red light stops. This would be ideal for the pre-oiling function.

Accusump installation
 

OK so I promised I would get some photos from my Accusump installation in the tunnel. IMHO this is the best spot to put it if you can. Out of sight, doesn't take up any trunk space, doesn't heat up up the ECU etc... The only compromise is that it is difficult to access it and hard to see the gauge on the air side. My thought is to put a remotely mounted gauge using an electric sender, probably in the cabin.

So here are some pics:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1503545019.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1503545038.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1503545058.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1503545080.jpg

Here you can see the 2 hoses going around just behind the motor mount enroute to the remote oil filter:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1503545101.jpg

And this is the remotely mounted oil filter. It is located on the passenger side, next to the water pump, on the upright wall. There was just enough room to mount it there with a Napa Gold 1042 filter:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1503545118.jpg

I haven't used it on the track yet, but I'm heading to Inde Motorsports Ranch in Wilcox, AZ on Labor Day weekend. So the way I use it is I power up the Accusump master switch just prior to starting the engine for a few seconds in order to pre-oil. Engine starts soooo much smoother. This has got to be good for reducing startup wear... I then turn it off and let it recharge during normal street driving. If I leave it on, it will start dumping at every stop or light.

Oil pressure and temp gauges
 

Here is a photo of the gauge and panel I custom made.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1503546385.jpg

I have 2 switches: 1 for the Accusump and 1 for the radiator fans (high speed).
The orange pilot light on the bottom portion comes on when the Accusump is dumping (solenoid valve open). The left gauge is for oil temp, sender mounted on rear of the driver's side head. The right gauge is the oil pressure, sender mounted where the original pressure switch was mounted (passenger side front of head). These are VDO gauges. I originally wanted to install the Speedhut gauges, but they wanted 5 weeks to make and deliver them...

I tried to match the gauge bezel color with the instrument cluster gauge bezels (chrome), but the gauge bezels protrude way more than I like, so I might have to redo the faceplate with 48 mm dia holes to flush mount the gauges.

I wired the existing oil pressure switch wire that goes to the instrument cluster low oil pressure warning light in parallel to the oil pressure gauge warning light, so they both come on when oil pressure is below 7 psi. The issue I have now is that the lights come on when oil is at temp (190-200F), whereas it didn't before, so I assume the original pressure switch is set to something less than 7 psi.

Now that was annoying me, so I upgraded to latest oil pressure relief valve and spring, thinking the low oil pressure was caused by a broken spring or bound piston. On the upgraded parts, the spring is slightly longer and the piston has the bevel on top, but the old piston and springs looked just fine.http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1503546961.jpg

After installing this, no difference in the oil pressure, still around 7 psi at idle. I ordered 10 L of Motul 8100 Excess 5w40 oil as I have read that it is a very good track oil and it will probably bump up the idle pressure some. More to come...

I'm jealous that you can mount yours in the tunnel. My only critique/suggestion is that I've found it helpful to check the pressure in the tank every once in awhile. I'm having issues with my release valve and have had to look at the gauge to see if the tank has oil in it. With your gauge down underneath it might be difficult to see

Very nice install! I have the VDO Oil gauge and have had the warning light flicker once at idle after coming off a hot track session. I have actually gone to 10W50 and the oil.pressure seems to be a little better when hot vs 5W40.

Did you replace your original oil pressure sender switch with the dual 7 psi warning contact / sender unit from VDO? Did you install the larger bezel on the gauges or is your install flush mounted? What oil are you using now? I was thinking of trying the Mobil 1 5w50 if I still see low low idle pressure.

Yeah, my original oil pressure switch was replaced with the VDO brand dual oil pressure sensor/low pressure switch.

My VDO gauges are the VDO Vision black, they are not flush mount but the bezel is very unobtrusive and only sticks out a little in front and only overhangs the hole a little bit. I don't think yours looks bad, I do see where the bezel is protruding, but I think it still looks good :)

I am on Millers Nano 10W50 (previously Millers Nano 5W40) but I have heard nothing but good about the Mobil 1 5W50.

Concerning the new oil pressure relief valve install, DIY articles suggest a loss of 0.25-0.5 qt of oil after removing the bolt, so I was prepared with a catch pan. This only applies to unmodified oiling systems, as I learned...

When I removed the bolt, well over 3 quarts of oil came out and kept on going before I put the bolt back in. I believe this was because I have an Accusump and a remote oil filter, but can anybody explain this!!! How could this happen if the full flow oil filter still has an anti drainback valve? Or is there something else I am missing?

Low oil pressure!! Even with 5w50?
 

OK, here's an update on my low oil pressure issues.

As mentioned previously, I've installed a 2 qt Accusump with a remote oil filter with a 1042 Napa Gold filter. I Also installed VDO oil temp and oil pressure gauges replacing the original oil pressure switch with the dual switch/sender unit from VDO. I then originally filled with Total Quartz 5w40 oil which I had been using for the last year without issues before the accusump install (no low oil pressure, at least no warning light). When the oil temp gets hotter than 200F, it will set the low oil pressure warning light (7 psi or less) at idle.

In a quest to fix the low oil pressure, I upgraded the pressure relief valve as mentioned in this thread, with no difference in the oil pressure. I then filled with Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 oil. This weekend I went to a DE event at INDE Motorsport Ranch in AZ, and, while reviewing the video footage, noticed that the accusump dumping light I installed on my dash was coming ON on hard right turns, and also less on left turns. What I didn't like is that occasionally, the low oil pressure warning light would come ON (maybe a flicker but sometimes 1-2 seconds) on those prolonged (6-7 seconds) right hand turns!!!! I din't notice it at the track (focused on driving).

So now, I'm freaking out. Today I went ahead and filled with Mobil 1 5w50 (on sale at NAPA), at the recommendation of my indie mechanic and driving instructor. I'm still seeing the low oil pressure warning light when the oil is up to temp, but barely...

What the heck is going on? Could the oil pump itself be worn out?
At startup, I do get up to 60 psi cold, but then it quickly goes down as the oil heats up. Could the filter be creating too much oil pressure drop? (accusump is AFTER the oil filter, and there is a check valve to prevent backflow). I'm thinking that the oil pump does not have enough pressure/flow to refill the Accusump and that is why I'm seeing the low pressure light at the track. This should not happen with an Accusump!

JFP in PA, any ideas? Can these pumps wear? Do I need a coarser filter like the LNE washable one? Or are my bearings worn out? Engine has 81,000 miles and runs great!

Thanks

BTW it was a blast at INDE, as I'll post some video. Oil temp did not get above 235F. And BTW I'm on street tires (R-S3s).

Ir it were my car I would replace the oil pump.

Clogged pick up tube?

We have seen the oil pumps go bad, usually from accumulated debris in the oil. The oil pump drives are also known to fail, but those usually just snap leaving you without any oil. The is also a pressure regulator system in the pump that consists of a piston and spring which can fail, lowering the oil pressure. This is the easiest thing to check as you can remove it through an external plug, and there is an updated replacement set up specifically to improve low RPM oil pressure. As the updated components sell for around $20, I'd start there. If that doesn't work, pull the pump casset and check the pump for wear.

When I dropped my oil pan cover the first time, the oil.pickup tube was covered in snake like strands of sealant, possibly blocking some flow.

Once the accusump is pressurized, it doesn't take any oil away from the system. When it is recharging, it does take some oil pressure away but I think it is not major.

The 1042 filter is used on corvettes and the like, it is a very high flow filter, I don't think it I your issue.

First off I love AN hose and fittings. I also see that you changed the relief spring and piston. Looking at your pics from a fluid flow dynamics perspective my first thought was "wow those high pressure brass 90s from the adaptor are hugely restrictive". I'm pretty sure this was done to create a solid support for the hoses etc from the dynamics encountered during racing but unfortunately 90 degree fittings are basically a block wall to fluid flow. And this is the first and last thing the oil pump sees. Add to this the restricted id for high pressure and this is probably affecting fluid flow and ultimately pressure, (Decrease velocity ( the 90), increase pressure (pump discharge) creating a pressure drop across each 90 . Before jumping into the deep end and replacing parts, FWIW My .02 and an easy test is to remove the brass 90s, install 1/2" to -10 AN bushings into the adaptor, then a 90 deg -10 AN ell to your hose. The larger id and smooth radius of the AN fitting will be much less restrictive to fluid flow.

Thanks.
I dropped the sump plate when I installed the EBS oil baffles about 6 months ago and it was pretty clean in there, but off course, there could be sealant in there now after re-sealing...

Thanks for the response.
I used the low profile brass 90 deg fittings for clearance. Initially I wanted to do just what you suggested (1/2 to -10 bushing then 90 deg -10 L), but this would have extended the L about 1 in below the oil sump plate. I will probably try this as I have the fittings, but I'm worried about shearing off those fittings and loosing oil at the track:eek:

I think I saw low profile AN "Ls" available, so that may help for clearance, but probably won't be as good as the smooth flowing standard "L".

I did just update the relief valve with the following parts:

Piston 99710712501
Spring 99610712753
Gasket 99610712350

Is the Low RPM kit different than this?

No, that is it. I would also agree with something already mendtioned: Pull the sump cover and check your pickup. We have seen several that were packed strands of excess sealants that broke loose and ended up in the sump.

Mocal/batinc sells banjo fittings that are high inner diameter but low profile, might be a good solution, check.out batinc.net, I will find a link tomorrow if you haven't found them yet.

:D I'm happy I could put it there too:D

I don't have room for a third gauge on my custom made gauge panel, but I could likely put a small LED pilot light wired up to a 5 psi pressure switch mounted on a tee where the accusump air gauge is. That would tell me I have low pressure on the air side, but would not give me realtime pressure... Do they make a WIFI pressure sender? Would be nice to have that on my phone.

I installed an accusump in the tunnel of my cayman. In order to see the gauge, I mounted it so that it was pointed downward and drilled a 2" or so hole in the plastic belly pan below. I covered the hole in clear lexan. It allows me to see the gauge with fewer risks for leaks than a remote gauge would present. I only check the gauge rarely, so the inconvenience is not a problem for me.

With plastic undercover off, the gauge is still hard to see because of the coolant pipes blocking the view:( I think I'll just install an electric pressure sender connected to a gauge in the cabin. Location TBD:confused:

I think the air pressure port is 1/16th NPT, put a VDO sender (same as oil) and wire it to your oil pressure gauge along with a switch to toggle the gauge between the accusump air side sender and oil pressure sender. I called vdo and they said it was ok, and canton will give you the thread for the air pressure port. I was going to do this but never installed my accusump since my fuel filter is in the tunnel and blocks it.

Steve! You are the man!
You always have the perfect solution!
I will do just that and I'll try to upload photos when I'm done.

Well gents, bad news. This is probably my issue.:eek:
Haven't looked at the filter yet.
The funny thing is the engine ran strong and still runs strong.
These particles are magnetic, so iron or steel.
Also there is a tiny little spring that I circled in red??? Variocam?

Any ideas as to what this is? Valve spring retainers? Looks like ribs on the particles.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1504897147.jpg

(http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1504897737.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1504897181.jpg

The good news is it's early in the season:

If these particles are what they look like to me I don't know how this engine is still running! Yes, valve spring retainers and keepers plus that little spring (I think it's from a valve stem seal).
Take it apart before you touch the starter again.
Good luck!

I have to agree the small pieces with the ribs are valve keepers.

Looks like that is the case. The other pieces to me look like they are probably either the spring retainer itself or the the hydraulic lifter. Either way, there is probably a bent valve and possibly more damage, so the heads are going to come off I'm sure, and, if the engine is salvageable, I'm probably going to upgrade to racing springs, retainers and keepers.

Here's what the keeper (1/2) looks like:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1505098132.jpg

There's a post on Rennline that discusses the possible cause for this happening. It seems like the bottom line is that Over Reving causes the valves to "float" and impact the piston, especially with high RPM operation such as DE or racing. These are made of sintered powder metallurgy, and are brittle. The spring tends to soften up with age and this adds to the problem.

I'll be talking to one of the Phoenix area Porsche racing specialists (Patrick Motorsports) tomorrow and see what they say:(

Bit the bullet
 

After debating all the options and talking to my Indy shop owner that did lots of work on my Boxster, my co-worker that is a dedicated and very knowledgeable Porsche aficionado, and shopping around (including looking at $25K 2010 987.2 Boxsters), and going through all the stages of loosing your baby:(, I pulled the trigger today and acquired a used 3.2 engine out of a 2000 Boxster S from a reputable Porsche salvage yard here in Phoenix. The owner also knows and works with my Indy so that is a plus for me. The engine is very clean, no oil leaks. It was owned by an older gentleman that backed up on a light post, and so the insurance company totaled it. Hard to believe from the damage, just barely any damage on the rear bumper. Engine apparently had some major work done at 38,000 miles and was pulled at 63,000 miles. No details on the work done, maybe IMS? That year I am told has the dual row IMS bearing (1% failure rate?), so my mechanic will pull the IMS flange, oil filter and inspect. I think I'll just leave it in there if there are no signs of wear or abuse. I'm also told that you can't re-use (pull) an LN Engineering IMS bearing after it has been installed. I had a ceramic dual row pro IMS bearing installed on my car about 7k miles ago. Might consider one of the other oil fed IMS bearing offering out there if needed.

It's tempting to just want to upgrade everything on the motor since it is out, and I will certainly swap a bunch of stuff I already had done on the motor to the used one.

I'm going to load the car on the car trailer tomorrow (after installing the winch) and deliver it along with the used motor to my mechanic. I will probably have it back by the end of next week and in time for the first PCA DE of the season:D No break in required!

As for the pulled motor, I might consider attempting a rebuild during this winter and keeping it as a spare. Or, might part it out.:)
Hey maybe I'll get lucky and I only will have to pull the heads.

Update on the used engine swap.

My indy called and told me that the engine I acquired was a factory reman with the unserviceable IMS bearing. I think that would make it a 987 3.2 2006-2008. Now I know what the "major engine work was"! I asked about adding a DOF system to the bearing, but he advised against since it might drop the oil pressure, so all he did was remove the outer bearing seal for better engine oil lubrication. Apparently engines from 2006-2008 with the 3rd IMS bearing design that is larger are supposed to be more reliable... less failures. True or not?

Also, I was not happy when my indy told me that the parts shop I purchased the engine from had cut off the Variocam solenoid pigtail and there was nothing to solder to...:( so they had to pull the valve cover from both engines, and swap out the old for the new. Looks like Porsche wants $500 for that solenoid! Other than that, I had them replace the AOS, plugs, tubes, water pump and also swap out from the old engine the IPD plenum, 74 mm TB, underdrive pulley and other stuff I had installed.

It should be ready to pick up this Friday and I'll get to use my new trailer;)
Can't wait to try it on the track at Wild Horse Pass:dance:

I will buy an engine stand and start diagnosing the old engine with leakdown first, oil filter examination, and then get into pulling the valve covers since debris looked like valve keepers. Maybe, just maybe I can save the bottom end.

A five chain motor with the big bearing? Didn't know that existed

I found out I had a 2005 3.6 with the larger non removable (without engine disassembly) in my Boxster. I also have a 2008 Cayman S daily driver with the same style bearing. I've had the seal removal done on both. Will it be effective? I honestly don't know - but it can't hurt and it's the only thing that can be done without major engine work.........

Did the 3.2 not come in the 3 chain configuration? I'm thinking that is what I have.

It doesn't..............

Yes but unless I missed something you have a 5 chain boxster. I've had a customer put a M97 motor in a 03(first year of the 3 chain) boxster and it wasn't easy. I'd imagine putting one in a 2002 would be even harder. You said this motor came out of a 2000 which would sound near impossible to me.

OK so I just got back from the shop.

It looks like the factory re-manufactured 3.2 engine that was pulled from the donor 2000 Boxster S had the M97 bottom end with larger IMS single row bearing but still has the original Variocam. The fuel rails had the integrated pressure regulator and so had to be swapped with the ones on the pulled engine since the 2002 Boxster S has the regulator on the fuel pump. They also swapped the injectors since they were blue instead of white (what's the difference?).

I have not looked a the intake, but apparently the M97 3.2 makes 280 HP with a larger airbox, larger exhaust and intake. So hopefully the 7.2 DME will drive this engine correctly.

I did read from the Pelican article on Boxster engine swaps that the M97 3.2 (not reman) requires the use of the 7.8 DME, wiring and DME pin changes. That appears to not be the case here with my swap so far. So that is probably what you are referring to Woody for your customer having a hard time with his swap...

More to come...

Check the engine number on the sump rail; willing to be it has an "AT" in it, but the numbers will tell you what year it was designed for.