EBC brake pads

[Traco]

I put on new discs and ebc red pads. No issue at all. Once in a blue moon there is a tiny squeal if I’ve very little pressure on the pedal coming to a set of lights when they might change. Any reasonable braking and there’s no sound at all.

I’m running brembo drillled discs and the car is an S. I didn’t install any new springs or anything, just a coat of copper grease on the back of the pads.

They do fade on track so a set of yellows required for that I think.

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[NewArt]

Originally Posted by Dubaday

I just recently did a brake pad replacement and used ebc red's, and holy *bleep* does this sound like a freight train if you don't GENTLY come to a stop. It's only been a couple days and less than 50 miles of driving since I bedded the new rotors and changed the pads, think I'll give it a week or two before I make hasty decisions.

Did you use the paste on the back of the pads? Are you using the anti sqeal shims? If yes to these, you might try filing the leading edge of the pad although if memory serves, I beleive they are alteady bevelled?
I found reds to be quiet and very clean although they are not made for tracking, no matter what EBC might say. Major judder problem when they get hot! But, for the street, they are just fine.

[Cunningr]

Been following this thread with interest, so what is a good upgrade for a 00 S? Spirited street driving IE. between a sometimes track and street maybe? LOL

Excellent brakes already, but I am adding the GT3 duct and stainless break lines when its due a service, so what would be pad choice?

Been a very interesting thread.

[NewArt]

I think reds are a good choice but there are many others that could suit your purpose. To be honest, even the most spirited street driving does not compare to the heat and punishment generated on the track, especially when you start moving up the experience ladder. I ran reds on the street and they even saw service at the track when I was in the green run group. It was only when I got faster and more experienced that they started to let me down.

[edc]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

Been following this thread with interest, so what is a good upgrade for a 00 S? Spirited street driving IE. between a sometimes track and street maybe? LOL

Excellent brakes already, but I am adding the GT3 duct and stainless break lines when its due a service, so what would be pad choice?

Been a very interesting thread.

Ferrodo DS2500 fine for up and down Alps and Pyrenees. Decent value for money at £125. No wear sensor slots though so you will need to short the sensor wires.

[Cunningr]

Thanks guys for the info, Sounds like a good plan. Here gets hot plus 40c. So doesnt take much breaking to start heating the brakes. So looking for that fine line.

[edc]

Ambient air temp will make next to no difference to brakes. Just try touching your brake disc after a gentle run to the shops ...

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by edc

Ambient air temp will make next to no difference to brakes. Just try touching your brake disc after a gentle run to the shops ...

Yeah but the ambient has to have some affect maybe not enough to affect breaking but a higher ambient temp has to cause brakes to heat up faster and maintain heat longer after you park. Temps here run 115f in August, in UK temps run up to maybe in the 80’s that in itself is a 35 degree starting temp sitting before you start driving.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

Yeah but the ambient has to have some affect maybe not enough to affect breaking but a higher ambient temp has to cause brakes to heat up faster and maintain heat longer after you park. Temps here run 115f in August, in UK temps run up to maybe in the 80’s that in itself is a 35 degree starting temp sitting before you start driving.

I'm not sure about that.... I hear what you're saying.... But, thermal dynamics would suggest.. (I have no idea what I'm taking about).... haha

Seriously though: put a 200d brake rotor in 115d water.... It's not good go over 200d.... It's gonna cool.
I don't think ambient should make at difference at all, because it's not the cause of the heat.

Im talking myself into it though.... because it IS the primary source of cooling....

See? No idea what I'm talking about..

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[edc]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

Yeah but the ambient has to have some affect maybe not enough to affect breaking but a higher ambient temp has to cause brakes to heat up faster and maintain heat longer after you park. Temps here run 115f in August, in UK temps run up to maybe in the 80’s that in itself is a 35 degree starting temp sitting before you start driving.

Heating up is no problem. They run much hotter than any air temp. I have done 9 to 5 driving for 5-7 days in a row through France, Spain and Portugal up and down mountains and the ambient temp has no affect on the brakes. Maintaining heat longer after you park doesn't affect the braking performance. You should allow your brakes to cool down just like you would on a track day. 20 deg C variation in ambient temp is nothing compared to how hot the pads can run.

[edc]

As a further example DS2500 pads have an operating range of 20 to 500 degrees C. Whether it is 20, 30 or even 50 degrees is going to make no difference.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by edc

As a further example DS2500 pads have an operating range of 20 to 500 degrees C. Whether it is 20, 30 or even 50 degrees is going to make no difference.

No but why after running hard on a track you develope fade? Its generally because of heat, probably nominally not much but ambient has an effect on everything from how the engine runs to breaking, and tire performance. Otherwise you wouldnt need different compound pads on a track car. Just saying driving a car hard in higher amb. Temp you reach temps faster, and takes longer to cool.

[thstone]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

Yeah but the ambient has to have some affect maybe not enough to affect breaking but a higher ambient temp has to cause brakes to heat up faster and maintain heat longer after you park.

Originally Posted by edc

As a further example DS2500 pads have an operating range of 20 to 500 degrees C. Whether it is 20, 30 or even 50 degrees is going to make no difference.

I think that both are correct.

Technically, a higher ambient temp will cause the brakes to reach a (slightly) higher max brake temp and it will happen (slightly) sooner as compared to a lower ambient temp. The converse is true for cooling down.

But in reality, it makes little to no difference in performance whether the brakes reach their maximum temp slightly sooner or if the max temp is slightly higher. Why? Because you are a smart fellow and you chose pads whose max temp rating was well above the max temps that your brakes experience (even on a hot day) so there is never anything to worry about.

Of course, there is the theoretical case where you experience no brake fade on a cool day, but do experience fade on a hot day. Somehow you chose a pad whose max temp landed right in the small range where the max temp varies based on ambient temps. I would guess that this is pretty rare.

[Racer Boy]

Ambient temp has little to do with brake temps. If it's really hot out, then the brakes may reach operating temp a tiny bit sooner, but otherwise there isn't any affect. What affects brake temps is the amount of heat being generated by the brakes.

If you are getting brake fade driving on the street, then you probably need fresh brake fluid. Old fluid will fade at much lower temps. In this case, the fade is the fluid boiling from moisture in it, and that gives you a "long" pedal, meaning that you have to push the brake pedal a lot further to get the same braking force. The pads themselves aren't fading, but it feels like it because the effectiveness of your brakes is reduced. If the brakes don't smell really hot, that's probably what is happening.

[Cunningr]

ThStone is exactly my point, i never said it woul make a difference just that its hot so it takes less breaking to start getting breaks hot.

I really was asking about pads to upgrade street performance that could be tracked.

I am adding gt3 ducts and stailess lines at service, so what else ie pads and rotor types to get better performance in general both street and maybe some track.

You know for spirited street, i drive 150Km to 180 more regular than i should so need best breaking possibly. For example.

Anyway fun disscision, wasnt trying to hi jack threads! Get back to topic, what would be best upgrade bits without a $4K brembo set up.

[edc]

You don't need much. Higher BP fluid, GT3 ducts, some braided Flexi lined and some pads that can take higher temp like the DS2500. Stock discs are fine. Bed in properly.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by edc

You don't need much. Higher BP fluid, GT3 ducts, some braided Flexi lined and some pads that can take higher temp like the DS2500. Stock discs are fine. Bed in properly.

Cool pretty much what I thought, Thanks! Will finish collecting bits for the fall service.

[Traco]

My ebc red have never faded on spirited mountain road runs.

Never had a fluid issue either on road although I do have dot 5.1 in there. Also still running the original rubber hoses and they need changing but again never a road issue.

Only fade is on track and that takes 5/6 laps minimum flat out to manifest itself.


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[AZ986S]

I think I'll try something different. The EBC yellows are pretty good for what I've been doing, but I've worn the fronts and rears much quicker than the first set, so the lower cost may not help me anymore...so maybe I'll try the Pagid yellows?

[maytag]

Originally Posted by AZ986S

I think I'll try something different. The EBC yellows are pretty good for what I've been doing, but I've worn the fronts and rears much quicker than the first set, so the lower cost may not help me anymore...so maybe I'll try the Pagid yellows?

Let me know how that compares! I'll be a couple months behind you on this.

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