Boxster S front wheel bearing replacement

[steved0x]

I got a start on it last night but stopped just short of starting to pull the bearing due to supper time.

For the fronts, I:

1. Remove the speed sensor wire
2. Removed the brake calipers and hung them using a S shaped caliper holder
3. Removed the rotor.
4. Removed 1 of my 5 studs (to clear the SIR tool puller later)
5. Removed the previously loosened axle nut.
6. Disconnected the tie rod end (pop - my first chance to use a ball joint tool)
7. Removed the sway bar link lower end
8. Removed the sway bar link upper end
9. REmoved the previously loosened axle nut
10. Slid the wheel carrier down the strut. I got stopped right before I was able to remove the stub axle. I need to slide the wheel carrier down a little more so the stub axle will clear the strut, but to do that I think I need to loosen the LCA inner end, and to do that I have to slide under the car and remove the front underbelly panels. Supper was ready so I didn't get to finish last night.

I think I can do the job with the front wheel carrier still on the car, just slid down enough so the stub axle can fit out the back. I'll find out tonight That would be good since I don't have a good vise to hold everything in, I need it on the car so the suspension can hold it in place.

Or... the KSports look like they may hang down less than the factory strut, so I may replace th strut first and button everything back up before doing the wheel bearing.

[rastta]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I got a start on it last night but stopped just short of starting to pull the bearing due to supper time.

For the fronts, I:

1. Remove the speed sensor wire
2. Removed the brake calipers and hung them using a S shaped caliper holder
3. Removed the rotor.
4. Removed 1 of my 5 studs (to clear the SIR tool puller later)
5. Removed the previously loosened axle nut.
6. Disconnected the tie rod end (pop - my first chance to use a ball joint tool)
7. Removed the sway bar link lower end
8. Removed the sway bar link upper end
9. REmoved the previously loosened axle nut
10. Slid the wheel carrier down the strut. I got stopped right before I was able to remove the stub axle. I need to slide the wheel carrier down a little more so the stub axle will clear the strut, but to do that I think I need to loosen the LCA inner end, and to do that I have to slide under the car and remove the front underbelly panels. Supper was ready so I didn't get to finish last night.

I think I can do the job with the front wheel carrier still on the car, just slid down enough so the stub axle can fit out the back. I'll find out tonight That would be good since I don't have a good vise to hold everything in, I need it on the car so the suspension can hold it in place.

Or... the KSports look like they may hang down less than the factory strut, so I may replace th strut first and button everything back up before doing the wheel bearing.

Did you test fit the tool to see if the plates fit the bearing? I'll be pulling the car apart this afternoon to do the brake calipers and check the bearing. Honestly - I'm hoping it's fine

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by rastta

Did you test fit the tool to see if the plates fit the bearing? I'll be pulling the car apart this afternoon to do the brake calipers and check the bearing. Honestly - I'm hoping it's fine

I will do that at lunch today, I didn't think to do that on a new bearing, and not just the old bearing in the car I'll post some photos.

[rastta]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I will do that at lunch today, I didn't think to do that on a new bearing, and not just the old bearing in the car I'll post some photos.

Well - it's not my front hub bearing. Just checked it - no play at all, spins with just the right amount of resistance, no noise or grittiness or roughness. Looking at the inner pad that I put in before the track day - the top 1.5 inches have no wear and the one it replaced had a lot of pad at the top and very little at the bottom. So it's got to be the caliper. Rebuild kit should be here today.

However, will still be good to know what tools are necessary in the event I may need to replace it at some time.