How about if you have an S, with third radiator and larger cooler already? And your engine is now toast, like mine?:(

I have an "S" so unfortunately I have all of ths already ......
But fortunately the engine ain't toast, just my track sessions are usually a little short :(

Here is a summary of all the things I did so far, unfortunately with only little effect :(

So here's what I did:
* Replaced water pump
* installed LN engineering low-temp thermostat
* cleaned the radiators (also cleaned between the radiators and the AC condensers)
* switched from 15W50 to 10W40
* bled the coolant system twice
* checked that all the electric fans kick in
* checked pressure on the coolant lines to the front radiators

here is the new lne deep sump WITH x-51 baffle ...

osCommerce

Sorry but I don't buy it
This looks like the version I have in my 986S only with the difference that the X51 baffle is all metal while the 986 baffle is all plastic .
But my baffle also has the rubber flaps just like he X51 baffle
How do I know? I had it out when I installed the LN engineering deep sump...

There is a post of the 03 pan with LNs 1/4" baffle riser in post 18 of this thread

regardless of what brad says, that oil pressure releif spring / piston combo varies oil pressure with temperature. FYI, over time, springs sag. their spring RATES don't change, but their length WILL change. if this thing gets shorter, it bleeds off oil pressure.

if you're concerned about oil pressures, swap it out. it takes a couple of minutes during an oil change and costs less than $20. it improved my oil pressure at idle by 25%. it matters.

that's a cool tip. i checked on the auto atlanta parts diagrams and the part number has been superceded, which indicates to me that they have improved it for some reason. makes a person want to find out what all the superceded part numbers are, figure out why they changed, and incorporate if (a) cheap enough, and (b) easy enough. for example, the aos has changed several times. we hear all the time about aos failure but, given that this is the internet, you never hear what verson has failed. i'd love to find out the failure rate of the most recent version of aos vs previous versions; most likely the latest version is a significant improvement (ie, a motorsport aos not necessary).

in this case, they replaced the 996 part with the 997 part. it has indeed been changed. the new piston has a chamfered edge, which usually is done if one suspects binding.

i'll post a pic of the different parts tonight.

All is well, I haven't blown an engine in a while so I am very happy. I have survived with adding just the X51 oil pan, but I should probably add an accusump at some point for the added security since the Boxster is turning into primarily a track car. I just didn't get in enough days this year to justify the expense. Plus I added a 997 to the stable this year.

A possible solution for a problem I am chasing for more than 6 months which costs around $20 and can be done n a few minutes during an oil change ?

You betcha I am gonna do this!

I'm with you. Only I have so many new parts going in I'd pay retail for this!:cheers:

Chris did you ever get oil temp indication set up in your car?

Nope :(
Never got a good idea where to hook up the sensor.

I measured the oil temp with the Durametric when I came right from the track when it happened the last time and it wasn't all that bad, don't remember it exactly but I believe it was around 230, which is not too bad IMHO

can you get oil temp to show on your a/c display? code 1c as per below:

undocumentedacdiagnostics - mikefocke2

othwise, plx sells a lcd gauge that plugs into the obdii port, can read/display multiple parameters at once and has a customisable display. if you google 'boxster gauge pod' you can find a unit that mounts on the steering column quite easily.

Appreciate the tips but both don't work for me :(
The LCD hack only works for older models
And the oil temp via OBDII is Porsche proprietary, only Durmametric can "read" it. I have a PLX device and it doesn't offer me oil temp as a parameter :(

I am a 2000 and for some reason I could not get this hack to work either.
There is also a question mark beside 1c....so

Chris how do you the plx for oil pressure? Which gauge do you have?

Not from the PLX, I get this from my 996 cluster :cheers:

I just ordered the EBS baffle. Looks like an easy to install solution. I'll put it in over Thanksgiving weekend so I won't have to worry about oil issues when I move from street to R-comp tires for my track days starting next month.

I also ordered a replacement oil pump spring/piston set just because its so cheap and easy to replace. With 98,000 miles I figure that IF the spring does lose performance then mine is probably gone by now!

Definitely watch for this. One of our employees left a mower running on a hill while he went to talk to someone and blew the engine on our brand-new mower!

I installed the EBS Racing oil baffle and replaced the oil pressure regulator spring/piston today. Took me about 3 hrs (took my time). Overall, very easy and a good afternoon project!

Here is the stock oil pan and baffle. The oil pan was very clean and didn't have any particles or sludge (a few small pieces of oil pan gasket material that came off when I removed the pan). Oil filter was completely clean too.
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...tockBaffle.jpg


The one thing that I noticed about the stock baffle is that the rubber window shutter was kind of warped so it didn't lie flat along the baffle any longer. Not sure if this would have caused any issues but I expected the flaps to lie flat against the baffle windows to close them off completely.
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...BaffleSide.jpg


The botton of the engine was very clean (much cleaner than I expected after 100,000 miles). The oil pickup screen was completely clear and clean.
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...nderEngine.jpg

Here is the EBS Racing baffle installed on the oil pan and ready for installation:
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...EBSBaffle2.jpg
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/.../EBSBaffle.jpg

It looks like your baffle already had the flaps to stop the oil flow. Are they all this way?

tommy - they're all baffled, but the OEM baffles are rubber & deform / disintegrate over time.

Yep :D
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-racing-forum/33994-oil-temp-sensor.html

I know this is a very old thread, however I looked back through all the old posts to see what upgrades I should do on my 2004 986 S (550 anniv) whilst doing the IMS upgrade.

I ordered the above mentioned parts, only to find they were identical to what was already installed. Not sure when the the upgraded parts became standard.

I bought these parts too... less than $23 after taxes, a cheap DIY. Can't hurt after 15 years, I figure.
If I recall, these upgraded bits came onstream in 2003 or 2004, so I'm all in putting them in my 2000.

So I know this is an old thread, but I was wondering about people's opinion on doing this "upgrade" or refresh on an oil pump piston, spring and gasket. Has anyone tried this? Did it help? If you haven't done it, what is the consensus on doing it? Could it hurt?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Fred

I did it on my 2000S, but since I don't have any oil pressure monitoring I couldn't say whether it helped or not.

All these items treat symptoms, they do nothing for the underlying conditions that are the root of the true problem.

I assume you mean the root problem is many oils losing viscosity at high temps whereas Driven DT40 and the xp9 racing oil not doing so. I believe you don't think it has as much to do with lateral g-forces. (I have switched to DT40).

But my question is in a 15 year old car does the piston actually wear out/break and need replacing so as to prevent damage? Is it designed to last 15-20-30+ years?

Thanks,
Fred

The piston doesn't wear out, but the original is more prone to jamming in the bore, leading loss of pressure than the updated replacement. The question is whether the piston jams in the bore, resulting in bearing damage, etc., or if debris going through the oil pump and through the oil pressure regulator (relief piston), causes it to stick.

The failure of the pressure relief system is very rare. The only time I have seen this lead to issues is when the pressure relief valve spring snaps in half (Mode of Failure #17).

The biggest issue is heat being absorbed by the clutch, passing through the flywheel, then heating up the rear main bearing. This leads to shear and wear, then wear debris of the rear main contaminating the rod journals of cylinders 3/6, leading to bearing failure.

Interesting. I have seen three blown 2.5l engines recently that had bearing failure, and ALL also had pressure relief pistons (early style) stuck in their bores in a position where the bypass port was open. The springs were OK. In that position the engine would not have had oil pressure. Did the pistons stick, resulting in low oil pressure, causing the bearings to be starved and the resulting damage, or did the bearing start to disintegrate for a different reason, as Jake describes, leading to the debris from the failing bearings going through the pressure relief bore (the oil is not yet being filtered) jamming the piston? Either way, I see no reason not to put in the updated oil pressure relief piston and spring. One thing that I have learned is that the Germans rarely say why they update a part (perhaps doing so would be the admission of a problem?), so it is a good idea to use the latest parts when possible.

FWIW, these all had LN deep sump kits and one had an Accusump. They also had lightweight flywheels.

I also saw an engine with a failing dual row IMS bearing (and no other apparent issues), which I thought was supposed to be unheard of, so maybe I am just seeing unicorns...

funny you mention LW FWs - jakes comment made me think that the issue with the lw fw is not vibration or unbalance, but rather lack of a heat sink such that cluch/transmission heat goes straight to the bottom end.

Personally I think it is a bit of a stretch to think it is heat. These cars had transmission cooling and temp data, and were not much hotter than engine oil. One had a recent clutch and the disk looked new with the part number stamp still present. Until I see data (MoTec has IR sensors that would be good for this), I am not convinced that transmission or clutch heat is an issue. ALL the bearings on these cars were damaged, not just rears, although those may have been the worst.

I am more inclined to believe that the flywheel/clutch assemblies were out of balance, putting more stress on the rear main bearing. IF that was the problem. Or the oil relief valve stuck (but why..) leading to lack of oil pressure, then the failure of main and rod bearings.

It does surprise me that people that are building these engines aren't using coated bearings or friction and heat coatings on pistons, combustion chambers, valves, etc. Heat and friction are the enemy of any engine, and these modern coatings make a significant difference. That stuff may not be legal for spec cars, but if _I_ were building an M96 I would definitely be sending some parts to Calico for it.

There's no single factor that leads to these failures. Its an equation.

Yes, a very simple one:

Lack of lubrication = $

:D

Quick question so I will bump this thread up - if somebody had an oil temp gauge installed, at what temp should they back off and/or come off the track? is there a safe(r) temp <= XYZ temp?

I just installed an oil temp and oil pressure gauge (pressure sensor replacing stock pressure switch and temp gauge in the matching port on the other side) - now that they are there, what do I do with them?

I have some ideas: like check the oil pressure after turn X on the straight, RPM is usually XYZ so see if the pressure is the same each lap at that point. Or check the temp at a certain spot and make sure it is at or below a certain value.

What is a dangerous temp?

Thanks

Steve

Steve-I think most would tell you that anything above 250 degrees is getting hot. I have oil and trans coolers on my car and it never gets above 215 even on the hottest of days.

As for the oil pressure that's a tough one. My car never gets below 35 PSI even in the most aggressive of corners( have baffle mods and oil return mods) but not only do you need to analyze oil pressure but you need to make note of when you are on and off throttle. Your pressure will drop in a corner if you are just entering and have been on the brakes. I have a Motec data system in my car so I can analyze my pressures and see the corresponding throttle percentage and usually when it's low I'm off the throttle.

I think that oil pressure info is good with the gauge you installed but may not completely tell you what is going on. What it will be good for is if you are in a long banked turn and can see it you can see where your pressure is at. Topless and Tstone are probably better resources than I but that is what I know......

As to max oil temp, a major factor is condition of the oil.

I am running DT40 (based on a conversation with Lake Speed Jr about the level and amount of my driving) and change it every 6 months which works out to about 2,500-3,000 miles. Uoa has been good with plenty of additive still left.

I don't have a data system but my phone app captures some, I am.going to mount it to get a view of the gauges and see how they behave when I'm driving.

I have an accusump but decided not to install it right away since I'm not doing Daytona this year like I thought.

Thanks for the guidance, so far the oil stays around 200, water temp at 180, I did an autocross Sunday and they went up some during my runs but came right back down.

Steve