replace your spark plugs

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by John V

I would never skip anti-seize on an aluminum head car. Steel threads into an aluminum head? I would not risk it. To each their own.

When using anti-seize, reduce the tightening torque by 30-40% and you won't have any concerns about thread stripping.

Hi,

A couple issues. Plugs s/b changed out every 2 yrs. regardless of the Manufacturers claims. This is for 2 reasons: First, you actually get the chance to inspect them and insure that the electrode hasn't broken or such. Second, you'll never have the plug seize. Plugs are cheap (possibly the cheapest thing you can do to a Porsche), it's a false economy to let them run forever.

Using an Anti-seize can actually impede the grounding of the plug as it insulates the metal-to-metal contact. Most Anti-seize compounds will actually glue the plug in place as the 'grease' cooks off from repeated heat cycles. That is, unless you use a Hi-temp Anti-seize which actually uses a metal (usually Copper) to withstand the heat. But, now you have the interaction of multiple metals going on.

Also, 50% of the torque spec is to overcome the friction between the threads. All torque specs (unless otherwise stated) assume a dry thread. If using an Anti-seize, you need to reduce the Torque spec by 50%, not 30-40%.

If you properly torque the Plugs - Dry, change every 2 years, you'll never risk stripping the threads or having them seize. BTW, the Torque Spec for Dry Threads is 30+3 Nm or 22+2 Ft. Lbs. and should be set in two stages.

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[porschegeorg]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

A couple issues. Plugs s/b changed out every 2 yrs. regardless of the Manufacturers claims. This is for 2 reasons: First, you actually get the chance to inspect them and insure that the electrode hasn't broken or such. Second, you'll never have the plug seize. Plugs are cheap (possibly the cheapest thing you can do to a Porsche), it's a false economy to let them run forever.

Using an Anti-seize can actually impede the grounding of the plug as it insulates the metal-to-metal contact. Most Anti-seize compounds will actually glue the plug in place as the 'grease' cooks off from repeated heat cycles. That is, unless you use a Hi-temp Anti-seize which actually uses a metal (usually Copper) to withstand the heat. But, now you have the interaction of multiple metals going on.

Also, 50% of the torque spec is to overcome the friction between the threads. All torque specs (unless otherwise stated) assume a dry thread. If using an Anti-seize, you need to reduce the Torque spec by 50%, not 30-40%.

If you properly torque the Plugs - Dry, change every 2 years, you'll never risk stripping the threads or having them seize. BTW, the Torque Spec for Dry Threads is 30+3 Nm or 22+2 Ft. Lbs. and should be set in two stages.

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Jim,

What does it mean to torque the 22+2 in two stages? Would I torque it to 22 and
then 24ft/lbs?

Georg


btw.....I do torque my lugs, but I do not own a smaller torque wrench for things like plugs and such. Any recommendations??? Craftsman????

I think Jim means 22 plus or minus 2???

Torque in two stages means torque once at say 1/2 the final amount all 3 plugs on that side, and then go back and do the final torque setting at 22.

Porschegeorg, are you going to be able to sleep tonight...thinking about your spark plugs!

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

No, the torque spec is 22 + 2 Ft. Lbs. First torque to 22 and then 24, that's straight from the Service Notes...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[porschegeorg]

I have my eye on a $229 Snap-on torque wrench. Perhaps if I purchase it, I'll be able to sleep better (on the couch, however).

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by porschegeorg

I have my eye on a $229 Snap-on torque wrench. Perhaps if I purchase it, I'll be able to sleep better (on the couch, however).

Hi,

Snap On is good stuff, but if you go with a top-end Craftsman, you get free recalibration (not certain Snap On offers this). That can be important because a recent SAE study of 1000 random quick release (Click Type) Torque Wrenches showed them to be as much as 50% inaccurate. So instead of applying 24 Ft. Lbs., you could be applying as little as 12 or as much as 48 ft.lbs.

The most accurate, and those used by professional engine builders, are the Beam Type. I have both and can check my quick release against the Beam Type for a fair accuracy check...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[John V]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

A couple issues. Plugs s/b changed out every 2 yrs. regardless of the Manufacturers claims. This is for 2 reasons: First, you actually get the chance to inspect them and insure that the electrode hasn't broken or such. Second, you'll never have the plug seize. Plugs are cheap (possibly the cheapest thing you can do to a Porsche), it's a false economy to let them run forever.

Using an Anti-seize can actually impede the grounding of the plug as it insulates the metal-to-metal contact. Most Anti-seize compounds will actually glue the plug in place as the 'grease' cooks off from repeated heat cycles. That is, unless you use a Hi-temp Anti-seize which actually uses a metal (usually Copper) to withstand the heat. But, now you have the interaction of multiple metals going on.

Also, 50% of the torque spec is to overcome the friction between the threads. All torque specs (unless otherwise stated) assume a dry thread. If using an Anti-seize, you need to reduce the Torque spec by 50%, not 30-40%.

If you properly torque the Plugs - Dry, change every 2 years, you'll never risk stripping the threads or having them seize. BTW, the Torque Spec for Dry Threads is 30+3 Nm or 22+2 Ft. Lbs. and should be set in two stages.

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Well, this isn't the first time and it won't be the last, but I disagree.

Yes, you must use a high-temp anti-seize. And no, it will not "glue" the plug into the chamber. The correct anti-seize for a steel plug into an aluminum head is a copper-based high temperature anti-seize. Agreed with your comment about checking the plugs every couple of years, but I'm not sure what that comment was in reference to.

Yes, I have seen steel plugs seize into aluminum heads, and no, they weren't overtorqued or left for an unreasonably long time. The electrolysis between the two metals is what you're trying to eliminate by introducing the third metal (copper). Having to helicoil an expensive head is not something I'm willing to do AGAIN because someone forgot to use the anti-seize.

As I said though - to each his own.

If I had a lot of money to buy a torque wrench, id get a digital one. My brother made a couple in college and they are super accurate. I think they may sell kits so you can make your own, but im not sure.

[John V]

Originally Posted by boggtown

If I had a lot of money to buy a torque wrench, id get a digital one. My brother made a couple in college and they are super accurate. I think they may sell kits so you can make your own, but im not sure.

Well.. yes and no. The quality digital wrenches are great, but they need to be calibrated periodically (just like a click type wrench). I agree with Jim that the beam type, though not necessarily the most convenient, are the most repeatable and trustworthy. I will never get rid of my beam type, and use it almost exclusively for critial applications like steel bolts into aluminum threads.

JV

[Tool Pants]

My short response is that all of this has been covered on Renntech. I have the 986 and 996 shop manuals. There are errors in both manuals.

You do not torque a spark plug to 22 lbs. then go back and torque it another 2 lbs. You do not torque it 24 lbs in one shot This is an error in the Boxster shop manual when it says 22 plus 2. A smiple printing/translation error. This error is not in the 996 manual. It is 22 plus or minus 2.

Another example is the size of the wrench to remove the belt. It is 24 mm on the 986 and 996. I have changed the belt on both. The Boxster shop manual says 24 mm, but the 996 manuals says 27 mm. A mistake in the 996 manual.

Porsche issue a TSB in 1994 that says not to use anti-seize. A copy of this bulletin is on Renntech. The 986/996 did not exist in 1994. But until Porsche issues another bulletin on anti-seize the mechanics are taught to follow the old.

Porsche needs to outsource its publications like other car companies. They cannot not even spell Boxster correctly on the 2001 tech intro booklet.

All of this is from my memory, so don't quote me.

[Perfectlap]

that's why I never read the manual, throw out all instuctions for video equipment, end up with 20 extra screws and washers from Ikea, Can never find the English section in user manuals and post all questions on internet forums...
scribners error...what's next?

[jwilson95]

I tend to agree with MNBoxster and Tool Pants on not using antisieze.

I sell Loctite brand as one of the industrial lines I represent for work and will ask the mfr. rep. for some "official" input on this and post it later.

Most of the issues with using it have been addressed already such as lubrication/torquing/stripping threads, etc.

See ya,

Jeff

[Tool Pants]

But I do use anti-seize on my vehicles for the spark plugs, including my Boxster. When we have a work on cars day and replace the plugs I do not use it unless the owner says ok. Not my car so I follow what the owner wants.

I have the gray and copper colored stuff, for picky people like me.

Just did it on my 1988 Toyota pickup that I have owned for 18 years.

I am old, and old habits die young.