replace your spark plugs

[UroTrash]

Did you use torque wrench? If so, did you adjust torque with the anti-seize compound? Thanks!

[djomlas]

it shouldnt take 'coule hours', maybe like an hour or so.
i will be chaning out my plugs as well as the serpentine belt. i will document it w pictures and use your guide as well so soemone who hasnt done it can see the actuall process.

thx for the writeup btw

[blinkwatt]

If you jack up one side of the car at a time you don't need to remove the wheel well cover.

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

You can change the plugs in as little as 20 min. You should use a torque wrench to insure that the plugs are properly sealed and indexed. Also, Anti-Sieze is unecessary and you run the risk of overtorqueing the plugs and stripping the Head (aluminum).

As mentioned, lift one side, slide underneath (I use a creeper). Loosen and the Coilpak screws at one time, pull the Coilpaks after marking them w/ paint pen or tape to avoid mixing them up. Pull all 3 Coilpaks (pull and slight twist). Untorque all 3 plugs with ratchet handle - not torque wrench. Hand loosen all 3 plugs and remove marking them (Cylinder #) for later inspection.

Check Gap on all new PLugs and adjust as necessary - they come pre-gapped but are notorious for being off which will affect a smooth idle. Check Spark Plug Tubes w/ finger to insure no Oil leaks. Insert and hand tighten all 3 plugs. Torque plugs to spec in 2 stages.

Insert Coilpaks on plugs, following the labels. Insert Coilpak screws on all Coilpaks - hand tighten. Torque Coilpak screws in 2 stages. Go to other side - repeat. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[porschegeorg]

I didnt use anti-seize and I didnt use a torque wrench. Call me crazy, but I've changed a bazillion plugs in my life on a bazillion different makes/models, and never torqued a-one. Never had problems either.

But now (thanks to you Jim), I'll be worrying about this until I change the plugs again!

Bill- only washed my hands 1 time per plug.

[John V]

I would never skip anti-seize on an aluminum head car. Steel threads into an aluminum head? I would not risk it. To each their own.

When using anti-seize, reduce the tightening torque by 30-40% and you won't have any concerns about thread stripping.

[djomlas]

what are the torque specs?

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by John V

I would never skip anti-seize on an aluminum head car. Steel threads into an aluminum head? I would not risk it. To each their own.

When using anti-seize, reduce the tightening torque by 30-40% and you won't have any concerns about thread stripping.

Hi,

A couple issues. Plugs s/b changed out every 2 yrs. regardless of the Manufacturers claims. This is for 2 reasons: First, you actually get the chance to inspect them and insure that the electrode hasn't broken or such. Second, you'll never have the plug seize. Plugs are cheap (possibly the cheapest thing you can do to a Porsche), it's a false economy to let them run forever.

Using an Anti-seize can actually impede the grounding of the plug as it insulates the metal-to-metal contact. Most Anti-seize compounds will actually glue the plug in place as the 'grease' cooks off from repeated heat cycles. That is, unless you use a Hi-temp Anti-seize which actually uses a metal (usually Copper) to withstand the heat. But, now you have the interaction of multiple metals going on.

Also, 50% of the torque spec is to overcome the friction between the threads. All torque specs (unless otherwise stated) assume a dry thread. If using an Anti-seize, you need to reduce the Torque spec by 50%, not 30-40%.

If you properly torque the Plugs - Dry, change every 2 years, you'll never risk stripping the threads or having them seize. BTW, the Torque Spec for Dry Threads is 30+3 Nm or 22+2 Ft. Lbs. and should be set in two stages.

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99