Boxster V8 project log

[Marc_986]

Then I had an appointment to get the car aligned. First try didn't work as the ignition lock failed on me (keeping the key spinning without engaging anything). I ended up taking the mechanism apart, removing the old grease and putting it back together. As a bonus I did put a new switch on it and the many subsequent starts are giving me confidence that it'll last a good while.

Second try for alignment now was a success. Rear wheels were within limits (one being on the edge) which was great to experience as I aligned it myself. The front was quite far off though and we put it back to spec. Resulting numbers:

Front left / right
Camber: -0deg 41' / -0deg 39'
Caster: 7deg 33' / 7deg 37'
Toe: 0deg 02' / 0deg 03'

Rear left / right
Camber: -1deg 08'/ -1deg 40'
Toe: 0deg 05' / 0deg 01'

Even though the left rear was on the edge of what we could do (toe link set to the extreme, than adjust the control arm to get the toe correct.) I see no reason to doubt the chassis. Knowing it has taken a hit at some point, this was the main thing I wanted to find out.

So with that out of the way, some experiences and things to work on (knowing it makes sense to spend more on it):
- The engine whine (see separate thread, will report any findings)
- It has some shake in the steering on light cornering. Could just be the tires so will swap them first.
- Feels like the engine mount is gone and I need an extra one for trial fitting the V8 in the wreck anyway.
- The car is very noisy inside (even more than outside...). So I guess the lack of engine bay insulation is not helping and the rear cover doesn't fit very flush. Need to improve a bit.
- All gears are functional (now I was able to test 6th gear on the 'new to me' gearbox). 1st gear is a bit hard to engage on downshifts, need to go really slow. Otherwise it synchronizes very nicely.
- AOS was a main issue. The car doesn't smoke anymore and it smells a lot better. Also pulls better in the revs.
- Seating position still is an issue and does make it less enjoyable to drive.

Anyway,. to be continued.

[Marc_986]

I looked up the prices for inner and outer tie-rods and new boots. Both TRW and Meyle are cheaper than I would have expected, so I'll go ahead and order these. I am refreshing the whole suspension anyway (rear already done except the anti-roll bar, front only the strut assembly and drop links done), so taking this step first. Will report back once that is all on the car.

[Marc_986]

Today I 'inspected' the steering rack. I was mainly searching for the part number to ensure I order the right boots. Didn't succeed in that, got the 996 and a bit, but not the last numbers that actually matter.

Anyway, I noticed the driver side being dirty;

Having read that the main failure of the racks can be found by a boot full of power steering fluid, this did scare me a bit. I popped the boot off but found nothing but a greasy rack

I was now able to rock the tie-rods in different directions on both side. Passenger side, no play found, no noises, all good. On the drivers side I could get the clunk by rocking the tie-rod up and done (fore-aft was silent). It didn't sound like it was coming from the tie-rod itself. With the boot shifted aside I could see the rack (to toothed part) move along with the clunk.

So I guess I am looking at getting a replacement rack....

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Marc_986

Today I 'inspected' the steering rack. I was mainly searching for the part number to ensure I order the right boots. Didn't succeed in that, got the 996 and a bit, but not the last numbers that actually matter.

Anyway, I noticed the driver side being dirty;
Attachment 23808
Having read that the main failure of the racks can be found by a boot full of power steering fluid, this did scare me a bit. I popped the boot off but found nothing but a greasy rack

Mark, if you didn't find any oil inside the rubber boots, then the leak is from the viton o-rings that connect the metal pipes to the rack, these are not expensive and very easy to replace.

[Marc_986]

I already changed the wheels to my second set, no difference. So I kind of ruled that out (along with the shabby tires).

[Marc_986]

In the meantime working on getting the car ready. Plan for this winter is ABS swap / brake upgrade, steering rack / electric power steering and fixing the top.

Today I was able to power up the ABS 5.7 unit in the wreck, connected to the rear wheel speed sensor of my real car. I was able to see the signal on the sensor and count the pulses, 48 in total as I was hoping (that's what the 986 uses, so I was guessing the 987 was the same). That confirms that the 987 rear setup is compatible with the 986 front setup

Next up was the speed signal (for my early intstrument cluster). At first no signal, so I assumed the output was open collector / open drain. Unfortunately a bit short in equipment at the moment, so I wired a few LEDs in series as a load. Voila, pulses on the ESO REAR output of the ABS module. I kind of was expecting a lower rate than the sensor, but it follows 1:1, so 48 pulses per rev.

Now I need to confirm that the ABS 5.3 does the same, but I am rather confident. Both ABS versions have a ESO (speed signal) with the same white / brown marking to drive the AHVAC module (something with automatic headlight leveling for the Litronics).

Next steps:
- Transfer the hardware from the wreck to my car. That is ABS 5.7, brake lines, bulkhead feedthrough etc. At the same time I'll swap out the brake hoses and fit the Boxster S calipers.
- Update the wiring in my car (sensor wires to the wheels, ABS 5.7 connector with power etc.). At this time I'll also prepare the wiring for the electric power steering pump.

[Marc_986]

So, forward with the hardware swap, some nice steps made there.

This is the ABS 5.3 unit still in the car;


Then, taken out (along with bulkhead feedthrough block as I need one with the additional rear line)


And the ABS 5.7 in the car (not screwed down, so it is still tilted a bit)


I also managed to take the single rear brake line and the T-union out of my car and replaced with the two rear lines from the wreck (along with union). Front brake lines mounted back as well.

It does seem like I will need to swap out the rear brake lines, or at least the right rear (which is the hard one). The nut on the brake line has a different thread than my old brake line. I removed these rear lines from the wreck as well today, but install will have to wait till the work on the front side of the car is done.

Next step is to finalize the two brake lines to the rear (tighten them, clip them in) so I can re-mount the washer bottle and headlight etc. Then I'll finish the front left side of the car with a new brake hose and the S-brake (disc and caliper).

[Marc_986]

Little progress on the brakes

Left side brake is now mounted. New hose, line, caliper and disc from the wreck. Big part of the job was removing the ABS sensor. Ended up snapping it off and drilling / burning / prying it out. Luckily the new type sensors from the wreck freed up instantly. These only have four 'ribs' into the hole, so no reason to get stuck

Today I worked on the front right. Similar story, with main effort on the ABS sensor. Little setback on this side is the brake line. I can't get it separated from the hose, so I'll need to replace the line with the one from my wreck. To do so, I think the main hurdle is to release the tank strap and get the line through. Will try it out on the wreck first ;-)

I might get a chance this weekend to try and finish the fronts.

[Marc_986]

Thanks Gilles. I'll make sure I have new one in there when I swap the rack for a rebuilt one.

The brake swap story starts to turn out into a bigger project (I wonder how many times that happens.. ). So the brake line left to right didn't want to let go of the hose. Even with the flare wrenches the nut got rounded, so even if I would get it off, it won't be re-useable. Checked how to get the line out, but really see no other option than dropping the subframe.

So whilst I drop het subframe, it makes sense to do the steering rack at the same time. That means moving to the electric pump also. That needs to function, so the electrics also need to be done. It looks like the clips for the coolant hoses / pipes are accessible with the subframe in place, but there is so much space once it is out.... makes sense to use this time to drop in the S coolant pipes with the appropriate hoses. And with the ARB out, this needs either an upgrade or new bushings.

On to the ARB. I found a post on this forum with a list of diameters:
https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/13937-sway-bar-size.html
However, is this a US list, or is RoW the same? I know there are difference in the springs between US and RoW models for regular as well as sport suspension. It could be the same for the ARBs?

Right now I have a 23.6mm front bar on it and a 18.6mm rear. It is a combination that according to the list should not be on my car (97 base with std suspension). Whilst I have upgrade springs and dampers to M030 RoW, it seems most logical to do the same with the ARB. But why is the S different than the base?

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Marc_986

Thanks Gilles. I'll make sure I have new one in there when I swap the rack for a rebuilt one.

My point is that you may Not have to swap the steering rack and only have to replace the o-rings to stop the leak, awesome project, none the less :-)

[Marc_986]

I ordered one of the plastic covers for the brake reservoir of a RHD car. It was cheap, so shipping costs a bit of time, but I might get it later this week.

Old brake line is removed, new one is waiting for me at the dealer. Gave me some time to look at the parts on the wreck. I can't use that subframe is it has the additional bolts to the chassis. Was looking at that because one threaded hole in my subframe is damaged from removal of the bolt. Well, I think it was already damaged by the looks of the stuff that came out. Looks like it was glued in place. Anyway, it shouldn't be too hard to repair the threads, or rather drill it out and tap it one size bigger.

The front ARB was removed from the wreck and this is the 24mm one. So I need to think which one to place on my car. Leaning towards the thicker one, accepting the increased understeer for the time, until I swap the rear one out. This does feel a bit better to me as I still need to get to know the car.

Also I looked at the wiring diagram of both cars. As far as I can see F7 (in the power distribution box) should not be present in my car. So I can either use this for the additional fuse required by the ABS, or I can use it for the power steering pump. My first thought is that it is most tidy to use it for the power steering and tap the additional ABS power from one of the unused fuses in the fusebox.

[Marc_986]

There are quite a few cars with the power steering pump mounted horizontally. I wonder why I couldn't do the same with a volvo pump (I'd need the one for external reservoir, but otherwise they are the same).

Horizontally, it would fit in the frunk, below the plastic trim piece, easily...

[Marc_986]

So, I've been thinking a bit. Seeing many conversions where people have put the pump in the wheel arch (most of the time in front of the wheel), why not do something similar?

So obviously the front is not going to work, it is already tight enough with the radiators there and some space for the air to flow.

But, at the rear of the drivers side front wheel, there is only the windscreen washer bottle. A quick look leads me to believe there is enough space to fit a power steering pump there. Still the rack is close, the reservoir can be put where we currently have the washer bottle filler neck.




If this all fits, I would then only have to find a washer bottle which I can mount, preferably, on the right side of the battery. That would leave the frunk nice and empty...

Any thoughts?