04-22-2025, 08:56 AM
|
#1
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 486
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
The long white nylon tool is used to align the connecting rods with the piston pin openings in the pistons before the black metal tool is used to insert the piston pin retaining clips.
|
Thanks, JFP. They probably won't get any use unless I loan the kit. Here's another question for you: I removed the three chain tensioners during the IMS installation and I haven't put them back. I haven't seen it explicitly stated, but I figured I should hold off reinstalling them until after the new cam chain pads are in place, during the timing procedure. Correct?.
__________________
2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
5-speed manual
Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 04-22-2025 at 08:59 AM.
|
|
|
04-22-2025, 09:04 AM
|
#2
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,588
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal
Thanks, JFP. They probably won't get any use unless I loan the kit. Here's another question for you: I removed the three chain tensioners during the IMS installation and I haven't put them back. I haven't seen it explicitly stated, but I figured I should hold off reinstalling them until after the new cam chain pads are in place, during the timing procedure. Correct?.
|
Leave them out until everything is back together and you are read to do cam allocation.
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
|
|
|
04-22-2025, 09:55 AM
|
#3
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 486
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
Leave them out until everything is back together and you are read to do cam allocation.
|
That's what I thought. Thanks for confirming.
__________________
2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
5-speed manual
Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 04-22-2025 at 08:10 PM.
|
|
|
04-23-2025, 01:06 PM
|
#4
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 486
|
I have everything I need to begin replacing the cam chain wear pads — except for one necessary item, the Porsche Special Tool 9632, to compress the VarioCam solenoid for removal and installation of the camshafts.
You'd think it would be included in the camshaft timing kit like the one I bought, but you'd be wrong. Pelican and LN do not sell them individually, so I searched and found this:
https://funaheadtv.com/products/porsche-special-tool-9632
Beginning in 2000, the tool has left-hand threads. $36 for a threaded rod, whether left or right-hand threads, seems like highway robbery, but I'll bet one from Porsche is many times that. Unless someone has a better source for the tool, I guess I'll order it from them.
__________________
2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
5-speed manual
Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 04-23-2025 at 01:13 PM.
|
|
|
04-23-2025, 02:23 PM
|
#5
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,656
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal
I have everything I need to begin replacing the cam chain wear pads — except for one necessary item, the Porsche Special Tool 9632, to compress the VarioCam solenoid for removal and installation of the camshafts.
You'd think it would be included in the camshaft timing kit like the one I bought, but you'd be wrong. Pelican and LN do not sell them individually, so I searched and found this:
https://funaheadtv.com/products/porsche-special-tool-9632
Beginning in 2000, the tool has left-hand threads. $36 for a threaded rod, whether left or right-hand threads, seems like highway robbery, but I'll bet one from Porsche is many times that. Unless someone has a better source for the tool, I guess I'll order it from them.
|
First, correct me if I'm wrong, because I've never done these. But it seems you need to compress B and C together. And B itself, is not threaded at all, otherwise how would you get the unthreaded part of the tool through there? So, you screw the tool into C, run the nut down on B which either pushes B down towards C or pulls C up towards B, or both. Right? Why can't you find out the the thread size of C is (probably M6 or M8, can't tell by the pics) measure the distance between B and C and get either a piece of allthread a few inches longer (like the tool) or even a bolt and a nut?
__________________
2002 Boxster Base - Arctic Silver - Tiptronic
2010 Subaru Forester
1980 Ford C-8000 Custom Cab Emergency-One Fire Truck
__________________
"I never lose. I either win or I learn." -Nelson Mandela
|
|
|
04-23-2025, 02:52 PM
|
#6
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 486
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909
First, correct me if I'm wrong, because I've never done these. But it seems you need to compress B and C together. And B itself, is not threaded at all, otherwise how would you get the unthreaded part of the tool through there? So, you screw the tool into C, run the nut down on B which either pushes B down towards C or pulls C up towards B, or both. Right? Why can't you find out the the thread size of C is (probably M6 or M8, can't tell by the pics) measure the distance between B and C and get either a piece of allthread a few inches longer (like the tool) or even a bolt and a nut?

|
I'm looking forward to JFP's or another guru's reply to Al's question, because I wondered the same thing. By the way, I've read that some folks have used a heavy-duty pull tie to compress the solenoid, but I also read a scare story about the pull tie failing and the solenoid snapping back with tremendous force.
__________________
2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
5-speed manual
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Hybrid Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:18 PM.
| |