Swapping engines

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

That is a fuel line, I think the return.
As suggested by piper... use the old one or:
- has the kink really damaged the line?
- if so a shop that deals in hydraulic equipment may be able to fix it for less than the Porsche part.

Good suggestion, Grant. I'd like to straighten it, but I'd worry that the walls of the line were compromised. A hydraulic equipment shop could probably tell me definitively. I will look over the line on the old engine, as Al and 78F350 recommended. And I'll find out how much a new one costs — but I remember pricing the small plastic tube to the regeneration valve I replaced under the bank 2 intake manifold, and it made my hair stand on end. I ended up splicing in a short length of 5/16" rubber fuel line with hose clamps.

[LoneWolfGal]

Talked to Pelican. They said Porsche calls it simply a "fuel hose," and Pelican would need to order it from Porsche. It's #8 in the exploded view below:



The discounted price for a Genuine Porsche replacement through Pelican: $280.

Seems a little high...

[JFP in PA]

You need to remember a couple of things when working on fuel injector flex lines:

1. These hoses are not common hydraulic hose, they are designed to withstand considerable pressure and not be degraged by ethanol containing fuels, which swell and destroy common fuel hose.
2. Clamps used on injector flex lines are not simple worm drive hose clamps, they are stainless steel fuel injector clamps:

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

You need to remember a couple of things when working on fuel injector flex lines:

1. These hoses are not common hydraulic hose, they are designed to withstand considerable pressure and not be degraged by ethanol containing fuels, which swell and destroy common fuel hose.

JFP, di you know how much pressure would the return line be handling?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Gilles

JFP, di you know how much pressure would the return line be handling?

It varies according to the amount of fuel being returned, but it could be as high as the full injector pressures, which is around 55 PSIG.

[LoneWolfGal]

I'm not going to worry about the fuel line until after I get the cam chain rails* installed. I'm on the fourth day of a cold, so I haven't been out there much. I feel guilty about that. On the other hand, it has afforded me a chance to study videos about the procedure.

*That seems to be what many of the sellers have dubbed them.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Speaking of 350 cu in Chevy engines, last week I sold a TRW 350 rebuild kit I've been lugging around for years.

[LoneWolfGal]

I think I've finally beaten my cold. It robbed me of two weeks I could have been working on the engine. However, I spent the time productively, studying how to replace the cam chain wear pads. Turns out the camshaft alignment/timing toolkit I borrowed from a generous forum member is the wrong kit for my 5-chain M96. The borrowed kit contains these tools:



Here's the kit I need:



Which means I'd better cough up $97.87 for the correct kit if I hope to get the car on the road before winter. I'm also ordering a few more parts for the procedure:

cam chains (2)
camshaft sprocket bolts (8)
spark plug tubes (6)
oil scavenger pump o-rings (2)
camshaft plugs (3)

I'll hold off on replacing the AOS and other parts until I finish installing the pads.

[LoneWolfGal]

I ordered the cheap Chinese camshaft alignment/timing toolkit for $97.87. Sure, I could have shelled out $600 for Baum's (the gold standard) or an equivalently expensive kit from LN, both of which I'm sure are better quality. However, this will be a single-use kit for me (I hope). It might have a few small issues, too-long bolts and the like, but the main parts look solid, and I'm confident I have the wherewithal to get it working for this one job. Besides, I got nothin' against the Chinese. Hey, that's what Xi said!

https://www.amazon.com/MAXWIN-Camshaft-Alignment-1998-2011-1996-2011/dp/B0BYSRZTDQ/

[LoneWolfGal]

Question: What sealant do you folks use for the camshaft and sump covers? I've always been partial to Curil T2 ("Das Original") for those types of applications, and I have a brand-new tube on hand, but I figured I'd run it by you anyhow, on the off chance Porsche considers the use of Curil a capital offense (and I wouldn't put it past them ).

[JFP in PA]

Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket

[LoneWolfGal]

After studying all the videos, writeups, and advice I could find about timing the cams once the pads are installed I can state with conviction that there's a shipload of misinformation out there, and separating the wheat from the chaff is frustrating. Raby's video is great, but he glosses over some of the details. Once I figure out the procedure my palm will undoubtedly smack my forehead. "So THAT'S what they're trying to say." In the meantime, until my timing kit gets here, more studying.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket

My brother's also sold on that stuff. Jake Raby has a favorite sealant, but he's not saying what it is.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

My brother's also sold on that stuff. Jake Raby has a favorite sealant, but he's not saying what it is.

Works well, easy to control application with the pressurized container and nozzle, Jake used to recommend this stuff as well.

[Newsguy]

JFP, is this the equivalent of DreiBond, or in my case, Yamabond?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Newsguy

JFP, is this the equivalent of DreiBond, or in my case, Yamabond?

It is similar in performance to DreiBond, and a lot easier to find.

[LoneWolfGal]

Gilles, I sent you a PM.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket

JFP, where do you obtain your Loctite SI 5900? Amazon has only a 5-oz tube for $68.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

JFP, where do you obtain your Loctite SI 5900? Amazon has only a 5-oz tube for $68.

We get ours from a local auto parts store, if memory serves, about $17-18 per tube in a six tube case.

[LoneWolfGal]

While waiting for the cam timing kit to arrive I figured I'd begin the process of dropping the old engine. After elevating the car on jack stands, I tried to put it in service mode, first making sure the parking brake was engaged and the relatively new battery was charged to the max. But nothing happened when I pressed the button. Nary even a click, buzz, or hum to be heard. The powered top was working properly back in September when I parked the car, but it ain't working now. "Fuse," I said to myself, "or relay." I removed the fuse panel cover to have a look. The little booklet thoughtfully provided under the cover indicated that B6 and D3 are the fuses for the convertible top:



However, B6 also powers the turn signals and windows, both of which are functional, so if a fuse is the culprit it would have to be D3. The fuse panel layout:



I couldn't help but note that the layout in the booklet doesn't seem to correspond to the panel's layout. The booklet shows five rows of fuses but the panel has six, including the row to the right of the spoiler switch. If the spoiler switch's row isn't relevant, is the top row's designation A or E?



As for the relays, the convertible top's relay is supposedly a double relay. I read it, so it must be true. I'm guessing the largest relay in the photo is the one they're referring to:



Hope some kind soul can clear up my confusion.