Replacing the ignition switch

[Rob175]

yep....several from small to tiny all very short.

[Luckyman01]

For me this was easier access than under the dash.

David

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by Luckyman01

Remove vent next to ignition switch first.

For me this was easier access than under the dash.

David

A number of folks agree with you, David. I think I'm convinced. I wasn't looking forward to shoehorning myself into the footwell.

[Spinnaker]

https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/46411-ignition-switch-replacement-holy-crap.html#post346988
This older post describes how to replace the switch by going through the vent area.

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

A number of folks agree with you, David. I think I'm convinced. I wasn't looking forward to shoehorning myself into the footwell.

I changed the ignition switch from underneath the dash and found it to be fairly easy task with the exception of messing around with my eyeglasses to see what I'm doing

[Rob175]

Deleted post.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by Spinnaker

https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/46411-ignition-switch-replacement-holy-crap.html#post346988
This older post describes how to replace the switch by going through the vent area.

Thank you very much for the link. Very informative. I'm about ready to attempt it.

[LoneWolfGal]

Question: Since the switch is part of the electrical system, is it necessary to disconnect the battery first?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Question: Since the switch is part of the electrical system, is it necessary to disconnect the battery first?

That would be a very good idea.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

That would be a very good idea.

Then I'm glad I disconnected the negative terminal and insulated the cable end in a plastic bag. Thanks for the confirmation.

[LoneWolfGal]

I managed to get the task half-finished before I had to knock off for the day to attend to something else. First, I removed the driver's side vent, which indeed provides better access to the switch. Then I unplugged the wiring harness connector from the back of the switch and had just enough time remaining to loosen one of the set screws (see photo). Even with access through the vent, getting a small screwdriver on those screws is a challenge, I kid you not. Wrapping things up will have to wait until tomorrow. I hope it's not a godawful thrash to get it back together.

[Rob175]

So???? How did it go?

After you finished the job (assuming you did) and looking back on the job, would you advise me to go through the vent or from under the dash?

Another question: IF going through the vent, can you access BOTH set screws or do you need to go below the dash to access the other set screw? (in other words from BOTH positions depending on which set screw)

Ideally it would best to BOTH set screws from the vent but "ideally" isn't always possible.....lol

[LoneWolfGal]

Another work stoppage, folks. I managed to get the old switch out, after a modicum of cajoling and a lot of swearing. It was immediately obvious that there are substantial differences between old and new. Perhaps the differences are inconsequential, but until I determine that for sure the project has come to a screeching halt. For your viewing pleasure, here are photos with the switches positioned as much as possible in the same orientation. The white switch is the original, the black one is new.

[78F350]

Here's the Pelican parts Tech Article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm

Here's a part of it that may be helpful to you:




Edit... just for fun, I checked the link to the part that Pelican showed. It is NLA.

Try This: 4B0-905-849

[LoneWolfGal]

I just now ordered this switch from Amazon, a 4B0-905-849, which is identical to the one I took out:

https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-4B0-905-849/dp/B0066SFX1Q/

It won't get here until Wednesday, which is fine with me. It will give me time to recuperate from the past couple days' contortions and psych myself up for the ordeal ahead. I've completely rebuilt several automobile engines, one transmission, and two overhead-cam motorcycle engines, but replacing this switch is by far the most challenging mechanical project I've ever attempted, due solely to the inaccessibility. It can give you nightmares about being trapped in a claustrophobically tight place. Maybe the second one would be easier... and I hope to hell there won't be a second one.

But I'm not one to complain.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by Rob175

So???? How did it go?

After you finished the job (assuming you did) and looking back on the job, would you advise me to go through the vent or from under the dash?

Another question: IF going through the vent, can you access BOTH set screws or do you need to go below the dash to access the other set screw? (in other words from BOTH positions depending on which set screw)

Ideally it would best to BOTH set screws from the vent but "ideally" isn't always possible.....lol

I'm only half-finished, but I can answer your questions. Yes, you can theoretically access both set screws through the vent opening -- but I couldn't manage it, and Lord knows I tried. I ended up upside down in the footwell again to get the second set screw out. Maybe you'd have better luck. Some folks have supposedly pulled it off. But if I had to do it over again, I probably wouldn't remove the vent.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by pilot4fn

I changed the ignition switch from underneath the dash and found it to be fairly easy task with the exception of messing around with my eyeglasses to see what I'm doing

My hat's off to you, fellow pilot. Maybe my 986 has it in for me. The main problem I had was breaking those *^%(=@$! set screws loose. They were exceptionally tight and I couldn't apply enough torque to the tiny screwdriver with my thumb and index finger. Perhaps some testosterone would've helped, but I didn't want to start shaving my face.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Here's the Pelican parts Tech Article:

Thank you for the helpful links. Unfortunately, I couldn't see the part number until I got the switch out. Amazon's "This part will fit your car" assurance cannot be depended on.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Amazon's "This part will fit your car" assurance cannot be depended on.

Amazon goes by what the manufacturer states, which in this case (URO) is an unreliable one........

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Amazon goes by what the manufacturer states, which in this case (URO) is an unreliable one........

Tell me about it.

JFP, if I may, I'd like to ask you a question. Other folks have replaced the switch without encountering the difficulties I did. Am I just a wimp, or what?