Replacing the ignition switch

[Rob175]

yep....several from small to tiny all very short.

[Luckyman01]

For me this was easier access than under the dash.

David

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by Luckyman01

Remove vent next to ignition switch first.

For me this was easier access than under the dash.

David

A number of folks agree with you, David. I think I'm convinced. I wasn't looking forward to shoehorning myself into the footwell.

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

A number of folks agree with you, David. I think I'm convinced. I wasn't looking forward to shoehorning myself into the footwell.

I changed the ignition switch from underneath the dash and found it to be fairly easy task with the exception of messing around with my eyeglasses to see what I'm doing

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by pilot4fn

I changed the ignition switch from underneath the dash and found it to be fairly easy task with the exception of messing around with my eyeglasses to see what I'm doing

My hat's off to you, fellow pilot. Maybe my 986 has it in for me. The main problem I had was breaking those *^%(=@$! set screws loose. They were exceptionally tight and I couldn't apply enough torque to the tiny screwdriver with my thumb and index finger. Perhaps some testosterone would've helped, but I didn't want to start shaving my face.

[Rob175]

Deleted post.

[Rob175]

So???? How did it go?

After you finished the job (assuming you did) and looking back on the job, would you advise me to go through the vent or from under the dash?

Another question: IF going through the vent, can you access BOTH set screws or do you need to go below the dash to access the other set screw? (in other words from BOTH positions depending on which set screw)

Ideally it would best to BOTH set screws from the vent but "ideally" isn't always possible.....lol

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by Rob175

So???? How did it go?

After you finished the job (assuming you did) and looking back on the job, would you advise me to go through the vent or from under the dash?

Another question: IF going through the vent, can you access BOTH set screws or do you need to go below the dash to access the other set screw? (in other words from BOTH positions depending on which set screw)

Ideally it would best to BOTH set screws from the vent but "ideally" isn't always possible.....lol

I'm only half-finished, but I can answer your questions. Yes, you can theoretically access both set screws through the vent opening -- but I couldn't manage it, and Lord knows I tried. I ended up upside down in the footwell again to get the second set screw out. Maybe you'd have better luck. Some folks have supposedly pulled it off. But if I had to do it over again, I probably wouldn't remove the vent.

[LoneWolfGal]

Another work stoppage, folks. I managed to get the old switch out, after a modicum of cajoling and a lot of swearing. It was immediately obvious that there are substantial differences between old and new. Perhaps the differences are inconsequential, but until I determine that for sure the project has come to a screeching halt. For your viewing pleasure, here are photos with the switches positioned as much as possible in the same orientation. The white switch is the original, the black one is new.

[78F350]

Here's the Pelican parts Tech Article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm

Here's a part of it that may be helpful to you:




Edit... just for fun, I checked the link to the part that Pelican showed. It is NLA.

Try This: 4B0-905-849

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Here's the Pelican parts Tech Article:

Thank you for the helpful links. Unfortunately, I couldn't see the part number until I got the switch out. Amazon's "This part will fit your car" assurance cannot be depended on.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Amazon's "This part will fit your car" assurance cannot be depended on.

Amazon goes by what the manufacturer states, which in this case (URO) is an unreliable one........

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Amazon goes by what the manufacturer states, which in this case (URO) is an unreliable one........

Tell me about it.

JFP, if I may, I'd like to ask you a question. Other folks have replaced the switch without encountering the difficulties I did. Am I just a wimp, or what?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Tell me about it.

JFP, if I may, I'd like to ask you a question. Other folks have replaced the switch without encountering the difficulties I did. Am I just a wimp, or what?

Replacing the ignition switch in these cars is a job for a double-jointed midget, so don't get upset about it Just take your time and you will be fine.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Replacing the ignition switch in these cars is a job for a double-jointed midget, so don't get upset about it Just take your time and you will be fine.

Oddly enough, I happen to be a double-jointed midget, so it's still a mystery. But thanks for the encouragement.

[Rob175]

Somewhere else I read that a q-tip soaked in lacquer thinner and applied to the red paint on the set screws will break down the paint making it easier to unscrew them.

I know this switch change is "in my future" but I dread thinking of doing it. Maybe I'll try it in the parking lot of my "indy shop" so if (or when) I fail I won't have to tow the car to him.....LOL

[LoneWolfGal]

I finally found my tube of Permatex dielectric grease. I believe it would be a capital idea to use it on the new switch's terminals to protect against corrosion and ward off another switch failure. Corrosion on electrical contacts is a frequent cause of component failure.

This afternoon I proudly showed my collection of tools to a couple girlfriends, and they just shook their heads. They couldn't even appreciate the beauty of my gorgeous new torque wrench! They made japes at my expense. However, when something goes haywire with their rides, I'm the first person they call for advice. Different strokes.

[Rob175]

OK....I have that tool.....but how do you grip it and turn it....fingertips? If it needs to be attached to something like a wrench, driver etc.....how did you maneuver that?

[78F350]

A flexible shaft screwdriver makes it a lot easier. The tip can be 180* from the handle.

[LoneWolfGal]

The correct replacement switch finally got here and I'm happy to report it's installed and works like a charm. I must say, it was easier putting the switch in than it was taking it out. Breaking those set screws loose turned it into a @*$%^#! ordeal. Other folks didn't have as much of a problem with them, so I guess mine were just exceptionally stubborn. By the way, Phillips set screws would make the job much less aggravating; it's tough to orient a blade with the slot.

Putting the side vent back in was another ordeal. I really had to reef on it to get it seated. But I finally did and then I secured it with its three Torx screws. ** cue ominous music ** The Torx screw that goes in the light switch socket didn't seem to tighten. But the vent seemed solidly mounted, so I called it good. Then I noticed a pink plastic "speed nut" laying on the floormat. I slowly bonked my forehead on the steering wheel repeatedly, realizing why the Torx screw in the light switch socket wouldn't tighten. At such times, I question my sanity in doing my own repairs.



Now... I could just shrug and let it go. But it would cause anxiety potentials in my brain's positronic pathways, so that's unacceptable. Sometimes being afflicted with Perfectionist Syndrome is a pain in the ass. Anyway, after I psych myself up again for the undertaking, I'll wrestle the vent out again and set things right. Once more unto the breach, dear friends...

I want to thank newBgeek and JFP for their suggestions that I use a screwdriver bit on those set screws, with a small rachet to tighten, which worked better than a screwdriver. Wish I'd used them to loosen the set screws; it wouldn't have been such a gawdawful ordeal.

Also pretty handy was this telescoping, LED-illuminated, multi-adjustable inspection mirror. Highly recommended for these types of tasks.