Grinding/Rubbing from real wheel well??

[Caledelaney]

Recently picked up a 2002 Boxster S with 141000 miles. Runs like a champ. Randomly one day I started getting this rotational grinding or rubbing noise and isolated it to the rear passenger wheel well. Jacked up the tires, and you can hear it when I rotate the wheel, but I can’t seem to find out what it is.

It’s not from the engine, because the noise only comes when you’re actually moving and speed up and slow down corresponding to your speed.

I initially checked the E brake cable and wheel weights and dust shield and all of that seem to be fine. It’s not super noisy from the outside of the car (still noticeable), but inside when you’re driving it is quite noisy and annoying especially as you go faster because it just starts clicking away rapidly.
Also, check the tire to make sure it’s not anything in there.

When rotating the tire with the car jacked up, you can hear it and feel a slight resistance when it makes the sound, and then it releases, and then again and again and again, and again as you rotate the tire.

Thoughts or ideas on what it could be?

[husker boxster]

It could be 1 of several things. I'll list them in order of possibility:

1. Wheel bearing. The right rear wheel bearing from your era (esp 01) was a weakness on S's. With the car jacked up, grab the tire at 9 & 3 and see if you can wiggle it. Then duplicate the wiggle at 12 & 6. A bad bearing will have a rumble when driving that gets louder with speed. You'll hear it if you turn the wheel - it'll sound like rusty marbles when you spin the wheel.

2. Wheels hitting suspension. Are your wheels factory or aftermarket? Aftermarket hardly ever have the proper offset, so they bump on things like the long alum suspension bar. I know you said you've checked for interference, but when jacked up was your suspension loaded or unloaded. Under loaded conditions, it might be scraping something. If you jacked your car up from the proper jack point, your suspension would be unloaded.

3. Emergency brake pads. They reside in the rear wheel hats and maybe there's something out of whack in there.

Or it could be something else.

[Bill Ladd]

I’m with Husker on #1.

I’ve done both rear bearings on my 2000 S since I’ve gotten it. Driver side was definitely making a noise like you described and I went ahead and did the other side while I was working on it.

I believe I have read that the S go through rear bearings quicker than the standard models due to the more extreme angle of the drive axles. I have no experience with that, but I have read it.

[Gilles]

+ 1 also on Husker # 1

To confirm if it's the wheel bearing, try to find a long downhill road, then once you are rolling down turn off the engine and start making long S shaped turns, if your noise gets louder during a long 'left turn', then it's your right side wheel bearing..

But, ideally you should replace both sides as the driver side has just as many miles on it, it's a simple job, however is Not a fun job (it's a bear of a job to remove the old bearing, if you choose to leave the hub in place)

Note: When you install the new bearings note their correct orientation as one of their sides has the magnetic trigger for the ABS sensor, ask me how I found out..

[Caledelaney]

Originally Posted by husker boxster

It could be 1 of several things. I'll list them in order of possibility:

1. Wheel bearing. The right rear wheel bearing from your era (esp 01) was a weakness on S's. With the car jacked up, grab the tire at 9 & 3 and see if you can wiggle it. Then duplicate the wiggle at 12 & 6. A bad bearing will have a rumble when driving that gets louder with speed. You'll hear it if you turn the wheel - it'll sound like rusty marbles when you spin the wheel.

2. Wheels hitting suspension. Are your wheels factory or aftermarket? Aftermarket hardly ever have the proper offset, so they bump on things like the long alum suspension bar. I know you said you've checked for interference, but when jacked up was your suspension loaded or unloaded. Under loaded conditions, it might be scraping something. If you jacked your car up from the proper jack point, your suspension would be unloaded.

3. Emergency brake pads. They reside in the rear wheel hats and maybe there's something out of whack in there.

Or it could be something else.

There is no wiggle in the wheels at all. They feel super tight.

I don’t see any evidence of rubbing anywhere. I jacked it up and took the tire off and when I turn the hub I can feel the slight resistance and noise at a certain point.

[Caledelaney]

Took it to a shop and they said it was the e brake spring that came loose and allowed the shoe to dig into the rotor. They quoted me $1900 to replace the spring and shoes and new rotor and pads!! I don’t think so.
How hard/easy is it to replace the e brake shoes?

[tcora]

Originally Posted by Caledelaney

Took it to a shop and they said it was the e brake spring that came loose and allowed the shoe to dig into the rotor. They quoted me $1900 to replace the spring and shoes and new rotor and pads!! I don’t think so.
How hard/easy is it to replace the e brake shoes?

On a scale of 1-10, I would call it, overall, about a 6. Replacing the retainers which hold the shoes to the backing plate is about a 9.375, however. Patience is a virtue.

[husker boxster]

They're drum brakes, so if you've ever done a drum brake job in the past, you'll know how to do the e-brake job. I'm sure there are plenty of YT vids.

[Caledelaney]

Originally Posted by tcora

On a scale of 1-10, I would call it, overall, about a 6. Replacing the retainers which hold the shoes to the backing plate is about a 9.375, however. Patience is a virtue.

Any tips for proper tools, etc. to make it easier?