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2002 Boxster S No electrical Power at all
Hello everyone, new member here. After trying to figure out my no power issue on 2002 Boxster S race car I gave up and don't really know what else to do. Before hauling the car to a Porsche mechanic, wanted to see if someone here had similar issue and may be able to help.
My Boxster suddenly lost all electrical power to it. I tried new battery, checked the kill switch, replaced the ignition switch, checked fuses, including distributor box 80 amp fuse, checked immobilizer fuse, opened the box (immobilizer) and looked for any corrosion-all good. It is no longer under the seat but somewhere between door bar and door, so no getting really soaked issue here. Any suggestions? |
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So complete electrical failure due to alternator? I thought the good battery at least will light up display for sure. Will check the alternator. Thanks
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If battery turns out to be ok, check where the battery positive cable connects at the firewall.
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Take the battery out -- connect a charger to the car -- do you get things to wake up?
Sometimes a battery will fail internally and short things out -- even to the extent you can't jump it. Also check the negative terminal and negative connection from the battery to the chassis. I would also look for voltage at various points around the car. |
Checked, looks normal.
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Tried but without success. I ordered voltage regulator from FCP ($40 with shipping) will try it. |
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At least on the 987 (this connector that goes through the firewall) is part of a "power module" that is located behind the glove compartment, it connects to the positive battery cable and powers the 'power module' that includes high amp fuses. On the 987, the battery cable plugs into this connector with a strange "spring" type friction plug that you have to pull hard to disconnect, no clips, no nuts.. it just attaches the cable to the plug with tension. On my car I pulled the cable from the rod, use a fine emery paper (2000 wet sand paper) to polish the rod, and cleaned the spring type connector at the end of the cable with a toothbrush using a solution of water and baking soda, to remove the greenish 'acid'..? then used electric contact cleaner and once it dried, I used dielectric grease on both, the rod and the spring connector, a common practice when you have Italian cars ..lol Afterwards I never had that issue again. Hopefully this helps :) |
Disconnect your battery from the car terminals and measure the voltage. What do you measure?
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Watch this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=306zXxRypF8
I had my AC module go dark this week and this trick worked to get it back. Cheap, quick, and worth a try before trowing parts at it. :) |
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Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?
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Sounds like you have a multimeter. Start tracing voltage from the battery and move down the circuit path until you no longer have voltage.
Do you have 12.9v to ground at the line side of the kill switch? If so, do you have 12.9v to ground at the load side of the switch once you’ve turned it to the on position? I’ve never been around a Boxster race car, but used to race a Formula Ford. Much simpler wiring scheme on a race car. This shouldn’t be too hard to figure out. |
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Since you have a voltmeter -- start measuring voltages at different places around the car -- find an online wiring diagram to find the locations you should have 12v. Especially check the connector at the front/top of the engine compartment. It sort of a jumped box from the engine area to the front of the car (and your battery). It's a simple post with a 10 or 13mm nut that could have worked its way loose. There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there. Mike |
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