2002 Boxster S No electrical Power at all
 

Hello everyone, new member here. After trying to figure out my no power issue on 2002 Boxster S race car I gave up and don't really know what else to do. Before hauling the car to a Porsche mechanic, wanted to see if someone here had similar issue and may be able to help.
My Boxster suddenly lost all electrical power to it. I tried new battery, checked the kill switch, replaced the ignition switch, checked fuses, including distributor box 80 amp fuse, checked immobilizer fuse, opened the box (immobilizer) and looked for any corrosion-all good.
It is no longer under the seat but somewhere between door bar and door, so no getting really soaked issue here.
Any suggestions?

I had the same problem. It was the alternator. I replaced it and everything worked fine. It helps if you have the Bentley Service manual to do the replacement.

So complete electrical failure due to alternator? I thought the good battery at least will light up display for sure. Will check the alternator. Thanks

My battery lasted about 3 minutes after the alternator went out.

If battery turns out to be ok, check where the battery positive cable connects at the firewall.

Take the battery out -- connect a charger to the car -- do you get things to wake up?

Sometimes a battery will fail internally and short things out -- even to the extent you can't jump it.

Also check the negative terminal and negative connection from the battery to the chassis.

I would also look for voltage at various points around the car.

Checked, looks normal.

Will check. Thanks
Tried but without success.
I ordered voltage regulator from FCP ($40 with shipping) will try it.

Looks normal. The one next to power steering, right?

No, the connector I am talking about is in the front luggage compartment (close to the battery) and it goes through the firewall.

At least on the 987 (this connector that goes through the firewall) is part of a "power module" that is located behind the glove compartment, it connects to the positive battery cable and powers the 'power module' that includes high amp fuses.

On the 987, the battery cable plugs into this connector with a strange "spring" type friction plug that you have to pull hard to disconnect, no clips, no nuts.. it just attaches the cable to the plug with tension.

On my car I pulled the cable from the rod, use a fine emery paper (2000 wet sand paper) to polish the rod, and cleaned the spring type connector at the end of the cable with a toothbrush using a solution of water and baking soda, to remove the greenish 'acid'..? then used electric contact cleaner and once it dried, I used dielectric grease on both, the rod and the spring connector, a common practice when you have Italian cars ..lol Afterwards I never had that issue again.

Hopefully this helps :)

Disconnect your battery from the car terminals and measure the voltage. What do you measure?

I have 12.9V on my battery

Seems like mine has cable going from the positive battery terminal to a kill switch. Can not find anything that resembles connector you described. May be it is 987 only. Thanks

Watch this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=306zXxRypF8
I had my AC module go dark this week and this trick worked to get it back. Cheap, quick, and worth a try before trowing parts at it. :)

Sounds like a good battery. Next step is to proceed with the advice given. Good luck. :matchup:

Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?

Sounds like you have a multimeter. Start tracing voltage from the battery and move down the circuit path until you no longer have voltage.

Do you have 12.9v to ground at the line side of the kill switch? If so, do you have 12.9v to ground at the load side of the switch once you’ve turned it to the on position?

I’ve never been around a Boxster race car, but used to race a Formula Ford. Much simpler wiring scheme on a race car. This shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

Racer thing -- not on a street car.

Since you have a voltmeter -- start measuring voltages at different places around the car -- find an online wiring diagram to find the locations you should have 12v.

Especially check the connector at the front/top of the engine compartment. It sort of a jumped box from the engine area to the front of the car (and your battery). It's a simple post with a 10 or 13mm nut that could have worked its way loose.

There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there.

Mike

This fuse box has a rod that goes through the firewall and plugs with the + battery cable (with a funky connector), this is where the failure occurred on my 987.. just giggle the cable (at this connector) with the ignition on, to see if you regain power.
.

Kill switch is the switch to kill all the power to the car in case of accident.

Seems like have 12.9.on all points

Will check some more. Did check 80 amp fuses, seems fine.

I looked for that funky connector but could not locate anything similar.
Will search more.

I checked that, looks good.
Just removed the alternator today, will be taking it to O'Reilly tomorrow. Found little cylindrical piece behind it on the top of the engine bay.http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1683675032.jpg
Have no idea what it is.

Here;s another photo of the piece.http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1683675284.jpg

Keep going. Where does the switched 12 volts go from the switch? Keep following that 12 volts until it stops and that’s where your problem is

Will do. Thank Bill and all 986 guys..

D’oh. Missed that completely

Don't lose that piece. That is for the alternator bracet. That piece will slip in a hole in the bracket, if correctly I remember/it's been a few years since I pulled my alternator).

The bottom or top bolt that holds the alternator in place will go through that piece.

Unless you're taaking the car to a mechanic... look at parts diagrams so YOU know what that piece is for. No biggy, just don't lose it. :cheers:

But this one has no treads. I got the treaded piece I already hammered back to a normal position for the bolt to engage.

So, today I took the alternator for O'Reilly to test but apparently they are not able to test manual gearbox alternator due to the pulley being clutch type. Go figure...

Where do you have 12.9v? Where do you not?

I had a Spec Boxster that would not start -- but I got the display, but just crank and no fire.
Turned out I had the DME in fuel remap programming mode, by incorrectly sending a 5v signal to the DME.
This is unlikely you're issue.

Right now, if my battery is low-ish, I seem to have to cycle my kill switch a few times to get my display to come on, and thus be able to start my SPB. I monitor the voltage -- and it seems high enough so I'm not 100% sure why that is happening -- I have not diagnosed it any further -- but I plan to replace the battery (mini-ATV battery) before this race season.

Just a datapoint for you.

Mike

Appreciate your input Mike. I will be reinstalling the alternator after verify it's ok. Got the new voltage regulator but before changing it wanted to make sure the current one is bad. I hope it is bad.

@gtstacer - whenever you’ve found your issue, please post here to let us know. So often folks post for answers and then disappear. Thanks.

Have not found the cure yet. Replaced the alternator voltage regulator but did not help.
Had limited time to work on it. Will keep you all updated. Thanks for checking on me.

Solved
 

OK, everyone, found the problem. The issue was the defective kill switch, when checked power to the main fuses it was zero amp. Strange, because I thought that was first thing I checked but I guess not.
Connected positive with the main fuse wire and car started like a champ. Thank you all for the help.

Glad you got it sorted!